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  Did I Mess Up -----Again?

Started by dail_h, August 14, 2004, 07:16:32 PM

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dail_h

   Haven't set my sharpener up yet,just been coiling dull blades,an' puttin 'em in shed. Looked today,and they're pretty rusty. Didn't have that trouble at the flooring plant,used kero on 'em ,not water.
   Can I just sharpen them and let the mill shine them back up ,or do I polish them first?  Can I put them back on the mill, and make a cut or two in some junk stuff to shine them,or are they junk?
World Champion Wildcat Sorter,1999 2002 2004 2005
      Volume Discount At ER
Singing The Song Of Circle Again

Bibbyman

They're not junk..

I wouldn't go to the trouble of polishing them.  But if there is a lot of rust,  a good wire brushing wouldn't hurt.  Then a light coat of oil.  Might try

When we send blades back to WM to re-sharp,  they run them through a machine that wire brushes them.  When we get them back, they're all clean with a light coat of oil.  :)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Tom

When I dull a blade, it goes on the back of my truck.  It might be a week before I get a chance to sharpen it or move it to the barn. (sometimes longer)  I've not found that little bit of rust to be a detriment in sawing wood.

If a fellow was really anal about his blades he could sharpen them after 200 BF and polish them with turtle wax.  My goal is to cut wood and those blades are tools.  It doesn't pay to leave them in a mud hole but the only time I think rust hurts is when moderate rust dulls the blade or bad rust pits the blade to the point that it weakens and breaks.

The best thing to do is keep the blades busy, wear them out, break them and have to buy some more. :D

Bibbyman

A good question...  What type of oil would work well on a blade to prevent rust yet not kill the environment, etc.????

I know WD40 and worth the effort.  Maybe good to use to clean off rust but it drys away and the rust will come back.

As I noted,  the blades come back from WM Re-Sharp have a visable coat of light, clear oil on them.  We had some set in the box for months before using and the oil is still on them.

New blade may have a little oil on them but hardly enough to see or feel.  Maybe they're waxed?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

dail_h

   Hey thanks guys,I wasn't sure if the rust would cause the sharpener to be out of kilte or sump'tin,and maybe cause cracks. Just sharpen'em and saw huh
World Champion Wildcat Sorter,1999 2002 2004 2005
      Volume Discount At ER
Singing The Song Of Circle Again

Fla._Deadheader

  They will most likely get some buildup in the jaws of the vise when sharpening. We wipe down with wd40 before storing in the box they came in. Sometimes we leave a blade on the mill for a few days, loosened of course. It's not a good habit, but, when yer tired ???  

  I spray the blade while sharpening with wd40. It loosens the rust and helps to relieve the stickyness in the vise.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Bibbyman

Any stuck on sap will give you more problems in the sharpener and for sure with the seter than light rust.  

When we sharped our blades,  the last thing I did before taking them off was to turn the water/soap up and spin them on the mill until the sap was off'n them.  I spray them down with WD40 and that's hold them for a couple of weeks.  Any longer and they'd be rusty.  That's how I know WD40 ain't any good for rust prevention.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

MemphisLogger

I've gotten in the habit of wiping some vegetable bar oil on my blades before and every so often when I saw sappy stuff.

I also wipe'em down after I quit for the day.

Vegetable bar oil also seems to be working miracles for my sticky farm jack--I poured a little on the mechanism a month ago and it still works like a dream. Before that I had to spray it once a week with lube (not WD-40).
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Gilman

WM uses a ZEP product to clean your blades.  The last step in their sharpening process is to do a final grind.  They use a grinding oil to prevent gumming in the diamond wheels and act as a coolant. It is possible they are using ZEP for the whole process due to its high flash point.

That grinding oil is what remains on your blades.

Here's a product description for Zep's website.

ZEP DYNA 170°
TYPE: High Flash-Point Solvent and Degreaser PROD. #0179
BENEFITS: Solvent for cleaning all metal parts and tools. Use when a low-VOC solvent degreaser is required. Designed specifically for use in Zep`s Brake Buggy and "Dyna" lines of parts washing systems. Quickly dissolves and flushes away grease and dirt. Use to soak parts or to brush clean. Leaves a light oil film on parts to protect against rusting and corrosion. Relatively slow evaporation rate reduces losses to atmosphere.The elevated flash point of Zep Dyna 170° provides an added degree of safety in use and storage. Zep Dyna 170° is rated as RCRA Non Hazardous. It is USDA applicable, K2.
WM LT70, WM 40 Super, WM  '89 40HD
Cat throwing champion 1996, 1997, 1999. (retired)

steveo_1

You guys ever use LPS spray lube? It has a waxy film after it dries and sticks on there for awhile.
got wood?

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