Prentice 110 hydralics

treefarmer87 · March 09, 2010, 08:50:34 PM

my loader is powered by a 4 cyl ford motor. when it is idling it runs normal, until you engage the PTO for the pump, it puts a strain on the motor and my hydralic tank gets hot and so do the control valves. A good friend that hauls to the same mill told me i have a blockage in the hoses or control valves. thank you so much for any help or tips.

Maine372 · March 09, 2010, 10:23:01 PM

once you engage the PTO you are circulating hydraulic fluid even if you arent utilizing any. so its normal to hear the engine bog some. (like letting out the clutch on your pickup when the transmission fluid is cold, you can hear the difference)

the heat gives away that you have an issue. i would start with the filter. does it have one? how old is it? is it plugged? is it sized to take the flow and pressure its subjected to? all these could lead to not only heat buildup, but loss of power in the loader.

is the oil milky? any chattering in the pump? that would be water in the oil.

you might drain the oil and see if there is any sludge in the tank. this could exaserbate any other issues, especially filter related.

tlandrum · March 09, 2010, 11:14:37 PM

i too would say check the filter. i would bet it has a filter in the tank ,i know my barko does. if its stopped up the pump would strain. and if its really low on fluid it will get hot and hot fluid doesnt push very well becouse of it really getting thin. it will caus e the system to be slow.

4genlgr · March 10, 2010, 12:15:17 AM

my 110 would get hot - never really cured the problem i think i help some when i had to buy a 120 hydulic tank it was bigger than the original 110 tank
where yours is mounted on a trailer the tank could be different a size of of tank
the original tank had two screw on screens inside you would have to take the oval mounting plate where the main hoses connect off
the tank/amount of fluid in the system helps keep things cool
like any oil when you use it it will get warm just from friction it will also expand

i would check your oil see if it has water in it or looks like metal flake paint either one change the oil, change any filters, you can probably wash out the screens mentioned above if you have them, check inside the tank for crap, (if your oil is ok drain it into clean buckets let it set and reuse the top you will be amazed at what settles out) by crap i mean chunks of rubber, pieces of pistons, there will be some any way but alot of rubber means hoses are going from the inside, the AL piston pieces means some damage to the piston heads, hard black pieces are from the seals and o-rings on the piston heads. replaceing these is a chore for the two main cylinders, they are very heavy. when they get bad the area around the rod will start to leak more than just a few drops, try a trickle. while you have everything apaart it is a good time to take your pump to the shop to have it tested. anywhere the oil can slip by under pressure will help create heat

it will probably always be very warm, if you can cure some restrictions/bypasses it will help

my 110 was build in 75 and i got it in 82 and used it for 20 years
i had to put a sheild(a piece of board) between one of big hoses up by the platfrom and my leg so i wouldn't get burned the oil was that hot

treefarmer87 · March 10, 2010, 12:31:36 PM

the tank is so hot it smokes and the control valves do too. my loader has a large tank over 30 gal i believe. the oil is milky when it gets hot. i ran it 2 days ago and it got hot, my motor was running terrible so i checked my gas tank and filters, the gas was orange. i found 2 pinholes in my fuel tank, had water in the fuel so i put a new fuel tank on it yesterday and filed the points. motor ran great until i engaged the pto. i managed to get a load on the truck taking it slow. came back for another load, cranked the loader, engaged the pto, started loading, loader ran almost fine, and didnt get hot at all. it still isnt running perfect. im gonna try the tank filter like you guys said. thank you so much

4genlgr · March 10, 2010, 03:31:23 PM

have you got the prentice tank or some sort of after market one? hte tank that came with mine was a rectangle 10-12 "x 14-16" 2.5 feet long Its been awhile since ive seen it
that has the screens. the 120 tank is a trapazoid shape with a circlular fitting thaat the hoses go into there is a filter under the cover

you may have boiled off some of the water in your oil. how long did this stuff sit?
is ther a drain plug in the bottom of your oil tank? can you get at it?
if you let the rig sit the oil and water will seperate just like salad dressing you can CAREFULLY unscrew the drain plug to a point that the settled out water will come out by the threads and leave the oil behind. that point is very close to GUSH here it all comes. i drew off 2+ galllons that way once from mine

what do you mean by "not perfect"? jumpy/surgey/chatdery when you try to lift with the main boom? your low on fluid this is noticeable when first starting to load as the fluid warms and expands it gets to the right level to opeate

good luck

treefarmer87 · March 10, 2010, 05:51:00 PM

it has a 3'x2' tank i have had it for a few months it sat at the man i got it from for like 4 months. the motor is all of those jumpy/surgey/chatdery, i just filled the tank with new fluid.
when i got it it ran like a brand new motor

4genlgr · March 10, 2010, 06:30:14 PM

the way i read things it sounded like the loader was acting up but the motor is sick
i'm no tmuch of a motor man but if you had orange gas you maty have gotten waater and/or rust in the carb. doesit run smoother with the choke part way closed?

there are some motor guys on here they might check in

good luck