Milling lumber for joist and rafters

[owenmc006]

First time poster from east central Alabama.  I am currently clearing land near a lake to build a home. A friend from church is doing the clearing and he has a nice sawmill that can handle 21 foot logs.  We have bulldozed over several southern yellow pines that have very few limbs and and have been able to get three logs from each tree 18-20 feet long. My hope is to saw 2x10 and 2x8 to use as floor joist and ceiling joist. I also have some hardwood logs to cut 20 feet for rafters. 

My question is, if we get these boards sawed by the end of January would I be able to use these as joist and rafters to dry in a house starting the end of May, the first of June. I am a teacher and have the most time to work in the summers. I will not be conditioning the space, adding insulation, drywall, or anything other than decking, shingles, housewrap etc. for a good while. I will be using kiln dried lumber for studs. 

We will likely stack, sticker, and cover the top of the wood to dry until May/June.

Appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.

[Don P]

That should work fine. We sawed a whack of 20' 2x12 poplar framing midsummer that we left stickered at the edge of the woods, too heavy to move. I was planing the first of it last week. Starting cool and finishing warm is better, it will be too dry for bugs and mold to be excited by the time it warms up. The hardwood I would soak down with a good coating of a borate solution to keep the beetles out of it. We sprayed the poplar as we sawed, since I planed it I'll spray it again when its framed.

Building inspector's attitude towards ungraded lumber is going to need to be sussed out, that can be a dealbreaker as far as using homemade lumber for anything structural. I'll need to have an engineer check ours and write a letter. I've had other inspectors say "Have at it". If you do hit a brick wall, SYP makes fine flooring, panelling, trim, and cabinets, all non structural so no problem. 

[owenmc006]

Thanks for the affirmation. Our county only inspects the sewer system with a perk test and a view before covering it up. Structural, electrical, plumbing and everything else is up to the owner. 

[SwampDonkey]

I was going to add that we've had engineer approval on wood we had sawed locally, been back in 1987. It was part of a larger structure, the rest was built in 1994 from kilned commercial lumber and engineered trusses. The new part with engineered trusses collapsed, no sign of rot in the wood. Very little snow on it, wind keeps it swept off. They were all twisted in the collapse. They tried to say snow load, insurance being sued for structural.