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Author Topic: new WM BMS250MU, won't operate (my issue solved, others still have problems)  (Read 5082 times)

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Offline Old Greenhorn

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Re: new Woodmizer BMS250MU, ongoing issue to get it working
« Reply #140 on: May 22, 2022, 07:11:04 AM »
Well I am truly heartened that this community came together and worked it out to resolve the dead machine issues. I do hope WM is passing these problems and fixes back to the builder to make them go away.
 I am still concerned about that transient voltage showing up. This points to a possible design issue where some diodes should have been included in the circuit to avoid leakage, it may work 'most of the time' and in 'most conditions' but then.....
 So it came down to the fuse value and type, the jumpers, and then messing with the proximity switch.
 SS, it sounds like you still have issues. Any chance WM can send you an updated board? I hate to see new equipment not running right. It should never happen.

 One thing is for certain, this thread has become the de-facto source for debugging these issues on this machine.

 Jim, that sounds like happy music in your shop. :)
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I am the woodcutter now.
I can work with wood, but I am NOT a Woodworker, but almost.

Offline jimbarry

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Re: new Woodmizer BMS250MU, ongoing issue to get it working
« Reply #141 on: May 22, 2022, 09:08:15 AM »
"pin to the top" worthy maybe.

Offline gmmills

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Re: new Woodmizer BMS250MU, ongoing issue to get it working
« Reply #142 on: May 22, 2022, 09:23:42 AM »
  Crossroads Glad you are up and running. The boards that are in question are easily identified. The orientation of fuse position on board is the factor. The problem boards will have the fuse holder in the F4 position and no connection, buss bar, F3 position. F3  pump circuit completely open. Also no jumper wires to 110V and 110VO terminals. The right boards will have fuse holder across F3 and a buss bar, fusible link, across F4. two separate circuits. If WM sends you the proper board as a replacement the jumper wires need to be added to power pump circuit. The harness in machine with problem board will not have these wires.

  I have a theory that the problem board in these newest units is designated for installation in European units. 220volts - 50 HZ. The problem board is using one circuit to power grinding motor and oil pump. European models will have 220 grinding motors and pumps. I need to confirm pump voltage. But stands to reason considering European  line voltage is 220V. Wire this board to 110V and the fuse is overloaded. 110v motors and pumps will draw twice the amps to operate, let alone start up amp draw. The proper board's separate circuits for pump and motor are individually protected.

  

    
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
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Offline Crossroads

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Re: new Woodmizer BMS250MU, ongoing issue to get it working
« Reply #143 on: May 22, 2022, 11:38:12 AM »
Lol, Im only sharpening for myself, hopefully 1 will be sufficient 
With the right fulcrum and enough leverage, you can move the world!

2017 LT40 wide, BMS250 and BMT250,036 stihl, 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, l8000 Ford dump truck, hr16 Terex excavator, Farmi logging winch, Valley je 2x24 edger, Gehl ctl65 skid steer

Offline jimbarry

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Re: new Woodmizer BMS250MU, ongoing issue to get it working
« Reply #144 on: May 22, 2022, 01:27:43 PM »
Lol, Im only sharpening for myself, hopefully 1 will be sufficient
I thought that too. :) 
Here's what I did for lighting. Battery operated magnetic LED bars on the out feed side. Just the right angle to catch the tooth tips to see if they give off any reflection. Any of that and they have to go through again.


 

 

 

Online terrifictimbersllc

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Re: new Woodmizer BMS250MU, ongoing issue to get it working
« Reply #145 on: May 22, 2022, 03:57:58 PM »
Get the sharpener and setter both going at once, then make a little mistake.

You dont need 2 sharpeners to get into a heap of trouble.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Offline jimbarry

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A fellow from New Brunswick called me over the weekend. He bought a BMS250MU and a BMT250. Trouble out of the box. He's has many years experience of sharpening saw blades for large saw mills and his retirement shop is set up for hand saw filing, and carbide circular saw sharpening.

For the sharpener, all three functions work but it would stop and start. Do a few teeth then stop. Or do half a blade and stop. Over the phone we narrowed it down to the proximity switch. Best way to put it, is that it is way too sensitive. He tried adjusting it all the way back and didn't help. So he took it off its mount and set it aside within the machine. Quickly figured out it was basically laying there on the steel base of the unit next to its mount, triggering it. He wrapped the sensor with a small cloth and bingo. It started up and he proceeded to sharpen an entire blade but since the proximity switch is not a part of the process he has to watch each blade as it comes around.  I told him to get the sensor back on its mount, keep it far back from the blade passing by it and put a cloth over it, then see if the machine will sharpen a blade. If it does, leave it like that and use the magnet so that when the magnet comes around it will shut off the cycle for him.

Next up the setter. He said that the mechanism that sets the outside tooth (the one on the left side when facing the machine) was not lined up correctly for 7/8" tooth spaced blades. I told him the setter likely was not set up for 7/8", probably some other one like 3/4". I explained to him about how the left mechanism can be moved closer or further away for different blade tooth spacing.

Hopefully he's good to go. IMHO, yet another example of quality testing failing at the factory level. 

Offline YellowHammer

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@JimBarry, how are you wiping the excess oil off the band as it exits the sharpener cover?  My bands always have some oil dripping off them the they exit, and yours look clean.  I've tried various things to wipe the oil off as it exits, but only with varied success.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  So dont burn the cookies.

Sawing is fun for the first couple hundred boards.

Offline jimbarry

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@JimBarry, how are you wiping the excess oil off the band as it exits the sharpener cover?  My bands always have some oil dripping off them the they exit, and yours look clean.  I've tried various things to wipe the oil off as it exits, but only with varied success.
The cards are still in place, though worn. I've cut out plastic pieces from a 5 gal bucket and it does the same. What does work well are bristle brushes, like I did here.


 
There's still mineral oil on the blades so there's a bucket under each arm where the blade makes contact.


 
When a blade is done I take it out of the clamps and use two scrap pieces of foam to "squeegee" the oil off. Foam pad on each side of blade held in my right hand between thumb and next two fingers, hand over the top of the blade, while the left hand pulls the blade through. Oil drips down to that little screen dirt trap I have there. You'd be surprised how much oil comes off. Dirty oil too. And that is what that little screen tray with scrap piece of cloth is for. To "filter" that dirty oil and it drips through and back into the pan.


 
Other things I've done is add a plastic curtain to the infeed port


 
which is a temp solution, while the outfeed port is like this, a piece of luan with a strong magnet.


 
When the cover goes up and down the magnet is strong enough to keep it in place so it drops right back over the next blade. The purpose of all this is to lessen the spitting of oil that occurs. Eventually I am going to purchase four 4" wide paint brushes and screw them to the inside of the ports to serve the same purpose.
One other thing I am going to try is to re-configure the 4" inline fan I have on top to recycle the air back into the cabinet. Close up all the gaps and then get a short piece of flex hose to go from the fan to one of those rectangular shape openings in the base. I figure the centrifugal force of the fan should be sufficient to keep the mist contained under the canopy.


 
That cone filter did ok, but now I have a cloth draped over the filter to reduce the mist some more, as it was still making its way into the shop. Original set up was like this,

 



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