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Author Topic: Cutting a full taper on the fist buck of a decent Oak  (Read 387 times)

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Offline AbbyR

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Cutting a full taper on the fist buck of a decent Oak
« on: May 18, 2022, 06:03:55 PM »
I have a couple of blown over oaks sitting on the pile to be cut. Because these were blown over, my son cut both just inches away from the base of the tree. These first bucks have the largest amount of taper anyway but especially so because they were cut so low. Subsequent bucks aren't nearly as tapered and I'll prolly just do my usual center the pith thing on them.

My question is whether or not I should cut these with a full taper? My understanding of this method is represented in the attached picture. Instead of centering the pith, I'd actually raise the small diameter end to level out the bark. I'd then cut my required thickness boards until I hit the pith. I'd then rotate 180 and do the same on the other side. I'd end up with a weird looking wedge in the middle as shown in the blue.

Fortunately for me, these are clean, round bucks with no center rot. We need 5/4 boards which we're going to use for shelving after drying and cleaning up. I'm hearing/reading that the highest quality boards are cut this way because we're cutting parallel to the bark. 

Tell me Obi Wan Kenobis -amiright? Hobbyist here - not a pro...

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Online Larry

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Re: Cutting a full taper on the fist buck of a decent Oak
« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2022, 08:34:47 PM »
Average woodworker, and DIY'er could care less about grain runout and may ever prefer boards with good cathedral's for cabinet doors.

Other's, such as boat builders, chair builders, steam benders, and one off custom woodworkers obsess about grain runout.  They don't want any runout and are willing to pay to get lumber their way.

I usually saw oak with a lot of taper parallel to the bark.  The cob is low grade anyhow, highest use might be a post.

If I knew the logs were going for shelving I wouldn't worry a lot.  Might take all the taper out on a low grade face so I wouldn't have to deal with a pyramid.
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: Cutting a full taper on the fist buck of a decent Oak
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2022, 09:17:37 AM »
Standard method for grade milling is to open up the best face, and then mill parallel to the bark until the grade starts to fall off (or if log tension is causing excess movement).  Then move to the second best face and repeat, etc.

Lot's of different ways to skin the cat.  It is extremely rare that I have someone that pays attention to slope of grain when selecting flat sawn lumber.  Most customers simply want the clearest boards.
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