Hey guys, im looking into getting some new boots to wear for the summer season when it gets hotter. I am wearing the Husqvarna light 24's right now and they are not extremely comfortable, between being made of kevlar and rubber they are cold in the winter and really hot in the warmer parts of the year. So im looking into getting leather ones. but the problems im running into are the fact that almost no companies except for labonville make leather boots with kevlar protection for your feet. so my question is what do you guys wear for boots and do you know of any other companies that make boots that are protective enough to wear in the woods. Most places advertise "loggers boots" but then when reading the description they also say , not waterproof, uninsulated, and some dont even have steel toe.
My danner tillamook fireline boots pull double duty. the are water proof but plain toe because of NFPA standards. Most logger/ fire fighting boots are un insulated leather. a pair of bailey's red dawgs may be right up your alley or a pair called metatarsel boots google it to find a dealer. It's a style not a brand.
but are they cut resistant?
All places around here like the osha standards and thats one of them. i surely dont want an osha inspector showing up and writing me a fine that i cant afford. i can hardly afford to do any cutting let alone pay unneeded fines.
Don't labonville sell kevlar inserts?Buy a pair of boots one size bigger and than put these kevlar socks on.I think these are OSHA legal.
does osha require kevlar shoes? or is that a personal preference thing?
I wear Royers in the summer.
http://www.superiorsafety.ca/catalog.asp?imagename=boot%208614&action=client&can=3802963E&keys2=Royer
The regs only require you to wear a safety boot. (steel toe)
Kevin
I dont have the paperwork to back it up right now . But I believe in the Logging Regs its says foot cut protection.
Here i found it.
1910.266(d)(1)(v)
The employer shall assure that each employee wears foot protection, such as heavy-duty logging boots that are waterproof or water repellent, cover and provide support to the ankle. The employer shall assure that each employee who operates a chain saw wears foot protection that is constructed with cut-resistant material which will protect the employee against contact with a running chain saw. Sharp, calk-soled boots or other slip-resistant type boots may be worn where the employer demonstrates that they are necessary for the employee's job, the terrain, the timber type, and the weather conditions, provided that foot protection otherwise required by this paragraph is met.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/mainpage.html
White's are the true logging boot still made in the USA in Spokane, Washington. I have 2 pairs, one logger and one packer. Had my first pair in 1965 along with a Ruana knife from Bonner, Montana. Still the best in both worlds.
These are what I wear,
http://www.cspoutdoors.com/swedeproboots.html
I have them with caulked soles but you can get them with or without.
Craig
I am all red wing for work and for play, I even use their wool socks. I get incredible wear from the boots and shoes and the socks keep the sweat away from my feet. Free laces and stiching for life and the socks cured my stinky feet. :D
Thanks for posting that Dale, the regulations are different on this side at least in Ontario.
I'll see what I can find for a reference.
Looks like there's something in the works but it hasn't passed yet.
QuoteIt is not yet known when the new standard will be in place
http://www.ofswa.on.ca/thelog/march2001/footwear.html
Canadian regulationsHeavy, well-fitted, safety work boots approved by standards like CAN/CSA Standard Z195-M92: Protective Footwear, or ANSI Standard Z41-1999: Personal Protection - Protective Footwear.
In addition to the regular requirements for safety boots, chain saw operators should wear boots made from cut-resistant materials that offer protection from contact with running chain saws.
Boots made of ballistic nylon offer the best cut protection.
Rubber soles for wet weather and snow, and hobnail boots, grip soles or cork soles for rough terrain.
The wording here is
should wear and not
must wear but I'm sure it's coming.
Pappy said it, Whites! If you want the best you want whites. Heres an interesting side note though. "You can't get good leather anymore, boots will never be as good as they once were". Thats what guy at Whites told me a few years back. I said, what, cows are different these days? I guess it's about chromoly leather though. You apparently can't use chromium tanned leather anymore and thats what makes the best leather. Enviros strike again. Anyway, I'm no leather expert, just what I was told.
Hi ! Do you have any friend that works as a solderer? Or in a steel shop?
Their booth are leather, steel toe and over the laces they have a special *tongue * of steel that cover all from the ankle to the toe cap.... so this way the upper part of the feet is protected. Good luck Roger
Quote from: roger 4400 on April 15, 2008, 12:49:28 PM
Hi ! Do you have any friend that works as a solderer? Or in a steel shop?
Their booth are leather, steel toe and over the laces they have a special *tongue * of steel that cover all from the ankle to the toe cap.... so this way the upper part of the feet is protected. Good luck Roger
These are what I refered to as metatarsel boots.
thing is if i do cut my boots i want just the boots to be unusable not my chain too. if you were to hit a steel tongue in one of those your chain would probably look pretty crappy after.
i don't think a metatarsal or a steel toe mean much to a high speed chain. I cut a 3/8 bolt nearly in half once before I realized I hit something... I also cut a 5/16 cable in half completely by accident once....
I think the most important thing to worry about is the foot and the tendons in the foot that is in the boot.... ::) ::) ::)
Can easily get new boots and new chain....
although im not sure about how moving around in the woods with those would be. although i like the suggestions about the boots. im not sure why they dont make more boots with cut resistant materials more readily available. i see all kinds of boots around that advertise for logging but they fall short of the mark in one way or another.
I have been wearing Matterhorn boots for some years now. I have been very satisfied with them. :-*They have a loggers boot that is pricey but they have kevlar to foul the chain, steel toe and gortex lining to keep your feet dry and a vibram sole. As far as the steel toe not stopping the chain, I disagree. Saw a video on youtube demonstrating the plastic toe and the steel toe chainsaw boots with kevlar lining. The chainsaw chewed right thru the plastic toed boot with kevlar. The steel toed boot did not allow the chain to cut thru the boot to where your foot would be. On a real life personal observation of this, about 2 months ago, I was standing about 6 feet away from my brother when he let the tip of his bar hit the steel toe of his chainsaw boots head-on. The chain when thru the leather and kevlar and hit the steel cap and bounced back out. Instead of having to deal with an emergency way back in the woods (30 minutes on the 4 wheelers to the truck and another 45 minutes to a hospital) all that happened was "DanG it, I cut my boot!!!!! BTW, we also wear chaps and hardhats with hearing protection and eye protection. I have learned the hardway, getting injured hurts too much, costs too much in the short run and costs way too much in the long run. ;)
when,your limbing on the offside of the tree keep your toes back and you won,t have to worry about cutting your foot.. ;D
delbert
Sorry, forgot to add i found the Matterhorn boots online at the "Working Person's Store". Probably others have them too.
The thing about any type of saw protection whether it be chaps, boots or whatever is that they are only made to stop a coasting chain. not sure any thing on the market will stop a saw runnin at full throttle. And no matter what kind of protective gear you wear IT STILL DOESN'T REPLACE COMMON SENSE AND SAFE PRACTICES!!!! I'm not saying don't wear it because I won't go to the woods without it but just don't rely on it to keep you safe. Your health and safety are the most important thing, like beenthere said you can always get new gear not new body parts. Look at Jay Browning no amount of safety gear would have saved his hand. Just pay attention and be careful out there. Okay I'm done
Quote from: timberfaller390 on April 16, 2008, 02:34:18 PM
The thing about any type of saw protection whether it be chaps, boots or whatever is that they are only made to stop a coasting chain. not sure any thing on the market will stop a saw runnin at full throttle. .............
timberfaller
My first experience with chaps
was with a full-throttle running chain. The kevlar ripped out and plugged up the clutch...the chain never made it through the inside layer before it stopped moving. It happened while cutting off saplings, and the saw caught on a stump, pivoting the cutting edge into my leg just above the knee cap. Happened quick, and without any feeling of pressure from the saw. Also, the day before leaving for a 12 day elk hunting trip...woulda put the kabosh on that plan for sure. Very chilling experience, to say the least.
Don't suggest anyone try it out on a fresh leg, but there are demo's of full throttle saws dropped onto chaps laying on a log.
im just interested in getting boots to help keep me safe. i know that in the end it all comes down to common sense, but sometimes accedents do happen that you cant foresee, or stop.
woodsrunner, im not saying that the steel toe boots wont stop the chain, all im saying is that if the saw bar runs into the side or top of your foot, there is no protection there.
also beenthere, ive also seen the videos of saws running into chaps, Labonville has one with 4-5 chaps to see which ones go through. its scary to see that very few of them actually stopped the chain before it went through.
was that shoe thing the one with hot dogs for toes like the chrush test?
RED WING LOGGERS STEEL TOE ;)
Red Wing Loggers from my local small town boot store.
Went in about this time last year to get a new pair of summer boots. Wearing 3 or 4 month old insulated Red Wing boots. The owner's daughter asked why I pulled the one boot off a certain way. I told her to keep from pulling the liner out. She looked at the liner. Went to the back of the store. Brought out a brand new pair ($180). She said the loose liner was a defect. Red Wing would stand behind it.
Hard to beat that kind of customer service...
For years, I swore by redwings, model 2233, to be specific
i broke down and bought a pair of white's smoke jumpers last fall, and I just got a second set without such an aggresive tread delivered today. I couldn't wear the redwings after wearing the smokejumpers. The White's grab your foot, support your arch, and hold your ankle where it should be. it's tough to dump the coin for a pair, but they are good shoes. i'm planning on these being rebuilt for years from now.
the only down side is the breakin for the white's, in a word, it's terrible, they are terrible at first, and take a while to make them wearable.
Hey zachman check out this site:
www.corcoranandmatterhorn.com
Look thru their boots you might find something that would work. They have a miners boot with metatarsal protection and a loggers boot. The loggers boots i am talking about have 7 layers of kevlar in the upper not just toe protection. But they are pricey. If your want goretex for waterproof and kevlar for chainsaw protection plus steel toe they will cost you. But still cheaper than a bad foot injury. Also do a search on youtube for chainsaw boots you'll see better how those chainsaw boots are constructed and what happens when a saw hits them.
Breaking in Whites :D Ahhhhh the good ole days. I have 2 pair of Whites freshly rebuilt, just sold a 3rd. Don't ask me how this happened, just did. :D Anyway, please god let these boots last the rest of my life, I don't think I have the fortitude to break in a new pair ever again. AMEN! There are good parts to getting old. :)
snowman
Just be careful what you wish for....don't want any lightning bolts bouncin down on you anytime soon.. :D :D :D
Breakin in boots is why I buy Danners....don't know what they have in loggers style tho. ::)
The best and only way to break in a pair of Whites is to put them on, lace snug and go put them in a tub of hot-warm water to soak for a few minutes, making sure they are good and wet. Then wear them all day. They will stretch and mold to your feet. After they dry good, then oil 'um up with mink oil and then a coat of Snow Seal. A bee's wax will work too. This method never fails.
In my experience, most quality made leather boots respond well to the 'soak em down and wear em dry' method. Not so much fun for the feet but it works. I agree with the mink oil and snowseal too. A guy who bucks firewood from me uses the metatarsal protected boots and he likes the protection but says they aren't so good off the landing.
I wear Emerson boots. THey are leather and have kevlar in them.
And to everyone else-- Here in Maine it is CLP law that all chainsaw operaters have kevlar chainsaw protective boots. No exceptions. If they come in and you don't have em, they shut your operation down.
yep, harsh standards as far as safety goes here in maine. thats why im looking into some good boots, it also says in the OSHA standards that companies must also supply boots that are also waterproof or water resistant.
did I say redwing?
These are Viking I believe with a rubberized cut resistant tongue inside for the ankle. They are not built for comfort I must say. I never had a logger boot that was comfortable, I find they are hard on the toes. These boots I find can dig into your shins, so I wear a knee brace over the top of two pairs of wool socks so it doesn't rub my shin raw. These boots were warn one season and I use Mink Oil on the leather. They are quite heavy to. I believe you can buy insulated ones as well, these are not insulated.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/SD_loggerboots-001.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/SD_loggerboots-002.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/SD_loggerboots-003.jpg)
Quote from: zackman1801 on April 17, 2008, 06:11:02 PM
...........it also says in the OSHA standards that companies must also supply boots that are also waterproof or water resistant.
I didn`t see anything that says an employer must supply any footwear, only that they are legally obligated to make sure that you wear appropriate footwear.
I`ve had very good results with Redwing loggers and I can have a new pair that fits tomorrow if I need them. I have quite a few pairs and I rotate wearing them because boots and feet last longer if allowed to dry out. A couple of years ago I had a pair that was about 15 years old and the stitching in the well worn soles was letting go. I took them to the shoe dealer, who also does repairs, to have them re-stitched and ended up getting a new pair at Redwing`s expense. Can`t beat that with a stick! Just be careful that any new Redwings you consider are made in the USA.
ahh you are right, it says that they must supply everything else but boots at no cost to the employee.
I know of some folks up on the oil fields in Alberta and one employer supplies new Red Wing boots every month regardless.
Do the White ´s boots have kevlar in them?
White´s makes a variety of boots. Which kind do you recommend for woodswork?
I have found most all boots , especially the logger model boots are built wrong. The overlapping pieces of leather provide a lip that catches brush etc. this makes it easy to be ripped and eventually tear and breaking the stitches. I did find a few pairs of ordinary safety boots that the heel overlapping leather was facing the rear of the boot.
Also most of the boots provide no toe scuff area and they end up all gouged and dug out .
Here when limbing spruce the left foot boot gets a real scuffing as you work you way up the
trunk thru the brush.
I never did find a well built leather boot that contained chainsaw protection and switched back to the rubber stink boots.
With these rubber sweat boots you can repair cuts etc at our local boot repair shop. Also take mud/grease/oil much better than leather.
They are about 1/2 the price of leather which around here we are ripped off at prices over 300.00 per pair.
I only have to cut and roadside over 4 cords of # 1 studwood to pay for a pair of leather boots.
Quote from: JimMartin9999 on April 21, 2008, 11:49:37 PM
Do the White ´s boots have kevlar in them?
White´s makes a variety of boots. Which kind do you recommend for woodswork?
Most wear White's Loggers with a kelvar like toe or steel toe, your preference. Also you can pick length of top, again most go with a 10-12". I also like the "air-bob" sole instead of the Vibram, better traction in the wet and doesn't hold mud as bad as a traditional Vibram. I have found the Packer frame fits me better than the Logger but just my preference.
http://www.whitesboots.com/store/sub-category.php?category=Boots&id=Boots%7CWhites+Boots
i wear these
http://www.husqvarna.ca/node1821.aspx?cid=139
thats what i wear right now, and let me tell you they arent the most comfortable of boots, especially since my socks fall down in them and they give me burns on the backs of my legs from the rubber rubbing on my skin all day. but they are waterproof and they work.
You found that out to did you zackman? Just part of getting broke in to logger boots. :D :D
Some folks take heavy plastic bags (not garbage or bread bags) and put them over their wool socks before slipping on the boots.
zackman,go to a drug store and buy some mole skin.Yes,it's called mole skin.Comes in a small box.What I bought had a small roll inside.Comes in differant sizes too.It is sticky on the back but made out of something that is soft.I ran a strip of it on the back side of rubber boots that I wear.I put it on the inside and the ouside,overlapped it.Thought it would take on better.Kinda run it some around the side too.Whatever was bothering my legs.It will come off after a while,but by than my leg is toughen up and I did not have to reapply it.It's not cheap for the amount you get,probaly $7 but it worked wonders for me.I know about the burns on the back of you legs.I feel your pain.
Try the bags first, cheaper. I have 3 guys who thin for me with brush saws that do it. Then I have one guy that I think would go in his socks if I let him. ;D :D :D
Just another idea that's all.The plastic bags would make mine feet bleed.I have enough trouble keeping the mositure away from my feet.I wear heavy stockings all year around when I have work boots on.One place I worked at the guys would laugh at me when it was in the 90's and I would have winter socks on.
My winter(deep snow) boots are the Husqvarna saw boots and I wear them with the Labonville kevlar liners. I have to get the boots one size larger than my normal size but they are very comfortable with the liners. Pull the liners at the end of the day so they dry out and put the boots on the boot dryer and they are perfect by the next morning. I`ve found that leather boots with cambrelle linings are pretty comfortable the rest of the year.
Quote from: zackman1801 on April 23, 2008, 10:18:17 PM
thats what i wear right now, and let me tell you they arent the most comfortable of boots, especially since my socks fall down in them and they give me burns on the backs of my legs from the rubber rubbing on my skin all day. but they are waterproof and they work.
what solves the problem for me is to get some good handmade wool (synthetic) socks that fit tight and don't stretch when wet (my wife hates me as a customer) , sometimes i get lucky and find some quality sport socks that work well it the summer .
I fold down the nylon top inside the boot and have also used fake fur padding to stop the chaffing 8) because it can ruin the rest of the day if you can't walk comfortably .
Forgot to mention , the stud kit makes all the difference in the world for traction , worth every penny for not slipping on ice or logs .
I alway use studded boots when thinning, but not when marking out perimeter. As long as I'm not in fir and aspen blow down or on frosty wood, I'm fine. Out west on the coast we needed them just to stand up on those hillsides. Just like walking on grease without them.
ya although a guy i know bought some of those studs and stuck them in, after we got back at the end of the day he had about 5 left on each boot. mabey he stuck them in wrong but it seems that they dont stay in well. atleast on his boots.
I use the ones you screw on, takes a special wrench to replace them. They are better than the studded ones. I know i said studded in the last post, but they are the screw in kind.
If your walking a lot of road or up creek beds the regular studded ones disintegrate faster. Maybe your friend never left the roads. ;)
The best thing I like about my saw boots is to take them OFF on a nice sunny day during a back/shoulder /wrist/knee/hip break and letting my feet dry out!!! ;D
i wear red wings theyre not steel toe or cut resistant or any of that .. they have some insulation so you can wear em 3/4 of the year all the oil on em theyre pretty water proof haha and on wet bark theyre not hte best but if ya want a pair of boots that last a long time and are comfortable and still tuff theyre pretty good and theyre fairly lightweight so ya can fly liek the wind
In Denmark we wear either rubberboots or leatherbots. Both whit saw protection.
Viberg Caulks. http://www.workboot.com/45scb.htm (http://www.workboot.com/45scb.htm)
They are a lot lighter than my whites or any other cork I have compared them to yet just as durable. Used them for setting chokers and forestry work where I have had to cover a lot of ground and they are the best boots I've had. Cost me about 350 and I would definately buy again.
Go to Nick's Boots in Spokane, Washington. He used to work for the White Company until he went out on his own and built a better boot. Believe me they are worth the money and are the best by far.
http://www.nicksboots.com/