deere 80ev needs ignition

[smalldog]

I'm working on a John Deere 80EV that loses spark intermittently at anything over idle. (I have confirmed the loss of spark with a timing light.) I have read that it is common for the ignition to quit with these saws and it seems parts are no longer advailable.(just like my neighbors 056 with Bosch ign) The info I have found is that it was made by Echo and is just like the Echo CS-750EVL and the engine was made by Kioritz Corp.  The module is #150 601 1203 0  and the coil is #150 626 1203 0  .  It shows "SEC" on the ignition parts. Any input would be appreciated as it is my dad's big tree saw. It is in great shape except for this problem. Thanks

[shelbycharger400]

if the ignition is breaking up above idle, check the points, the condition of the said, and the gap.  the gap could be out.

not 100% shure that is it, but fairly shure its not your coil.

[smalldog]

It has no points....The "E" in the 80ev is electronic ignition. I've had the flywheel off to inspect wires etc....no points.

[shelbycharger400]

yep, forgot bout that,
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=echo&mn=CS-750EVL&dn=3146

what is the gap between the flywheel and the coil,  its something like 20 to 40 thousandths ( usually i use a match box, or a grocery paper bag, or my 40 thous gasket paper i have)

if this is good,  check the coil , from the wire to wire, wire to plug , other wire to plug, and all to the metal core on the coil.  take a heat gun and use low or medium, see if something changes.

[sharkey]

Your best bet is to take the entire ignition system off the saw and go completely over it.  This includes the switch and its leads along with the high tension to plug wire and the cap that attaches down onto the plug.  Use a pencil and paper and make a diagram so that you dont miss anything.  Look for any indication of broken, frayed or pulled wires.  Look for cracks in the insulation surrounding the module and coil.  Check the switch with a continuity/ohm meter.  Look closely where the wires cross over the castings, the outside sheath can wear away from vibration causing a ground.

Generally speaking these ignitions either work or they dont, since yours is working at idle chances are your problems are in the wiring or switch.     

[smalldog]

I have removed the ignition from the saw and it looks great compaired to some old stihls I see that have the insulation falling off the wires. I disconected the kill wire all together so it's not the switch. The saw acts like a drag car with a stutter box that limits the RPM at the lights. I have seen coils in old cars that start breakin up with higher RPM.