Central Boiler classic 2300 Door latch stuck Help

[KFQ]

I burned out my door seal and put a new one in today, shut the door,(it was very tight to shut) Two minutes later tried to open the door and it's totally stuck shut. I've tried to pry it open, wedged an 8' 2x4 against it trying to push it in a bit and then opening latch, pounded the door from the inside via the chimney cleanup. Pretty darn stuck. Tried taking screws off front of door but the 4 allen head screws that appear to hold the door front panel just spin( must have a nut behind). My dealer said he's never heard of such a problem and I have a call out to CB, but haven't heard back from them. Any thoughts would be much appreciated! Hope you are all well.

[doc henderson]

so is the latch stuck, or is it open and the door is stuck.  I am not a boiler guy, but if you are sure the allen screw removal would let the door open, I guess you could grind them off and replace.  I have replaced seals on woodstoves the are very tight in the beginning, but loosen (seat) over time.  good luck and folks more familiar with you boiler will hopefully chime in soon!  welcome to the forum!

[realzed]

When you changed out the seal did you use the same type of high temperature caulking or glue that is recommended for keeping rope-type seals in the grooves on fireplace doors?
If so, I'm betting maybe with all of the force that it took for you to compress the new seal, you also may have possibly forced some glue or sealer out from behind the seal itself and ended up effectively sticking the door closed, or basically gluing it shut..
If that's the case try and find out what type of cleaner the manufacturer recommends using to clean the sealer when spilled or for cleanups of it - like maybe iso-alcohol or thinners and try and get some down into the door crack to help loosen things up some.
At the same time after maybe it has enough time to weaken the bond, trying to gently wedge something in there to pry on it a bit in a few areas might help to break it free - assuming in fact, that the sealant might in fact be the problem here.
I'm not at all familiar with wood burners or how the door seals are situated - so maybe my suggestion is way off base and totally not applicable though..   

[doc henderson]

Looks like you have been a member for a long time.  I hope we can help you get your door open.

[E Yoder]

Would you be able to post a close up picture of the gasket area?

[JJ]

Are the door latch cams, disengaging from the roller bearings on the door?
Maybe the jamb nut slipped on one of the cams (top or bottom).

I had a eClassic 2300 about 4 years ago, and had one of my cams slip.

       JJ

[JJ]

May have to take the door skin off to see the cams, but they are outside of the door; and can be knocked off the roller bearing.

        JJ

[KFQ]

It was the cam slipping. With a screw driver I was able to knock the latch hook off the bearing and found the hooks swiveling on the door handle. Then I took the whole skin off and was able to access the cam nut lock. Re adjusted the whole thing, ie hinges and latch and knock on wood it's seems good. That cam nut design seems a bit questionable, but all is well now. Thanks for all the support!

[JJ]

yeh, when my cam slipped it was first time I replaced the door seal.  Had to unmount the door, and adjust the hinges out, they are just eye bolts.
careful, that door is heavy!

      JJ