Just bought a 562XP

[John Mc]

My local hardware store is changing hands, and clearing out some items prior to the new owners taking over. I got a good deal on a Husqvarna 562XP.

This is the first auto-tune saw I have owned. I just went through the manual prior to starting it for the first time. I cold swear there was some sort of procedure you need to follow on the first run to get the auto-tune to set itself correctly. The manual makes no mention of that. The closest thing I can find is the statement "Avoid running at too high speed for the first 10 hours."

Is there anything else I should be doing for the initial run?

[DHansen]

Great saw.  I will just add that with in the first four hours on my 572xp auto tune.  I had my ear muffs on and set the saw down to roll a few logs.  I had left the saw idling.  Did not notice it had run out of fuel.  When I refueled the saw it was starting hard and not wanting to idle.   What had happened is the auto tune was enriching the air fuel ratio as it was running out of fuel.  It was attempting to compensate for the lean condition.  What I have learned here was just get it cutting and working hard in a cut for 90 seconds and let it reset itself.  That work for me.  Now I make sure I don't run the tank dry.  Hope that makes sense.  I'm sure you'll get opinions on oil type and oil ratio.  But that's up to your personal preference.   Have fun with your new saw.

[barbender]

I saw the video that was posted by weimedog or Spike60 I think, on how to reset an autotune. It was pretty informative, and cool how you could hear the carb reset and the engine clean up.  

 When I got mine I just fired  up and ran it like any other saw I've ever had. It ran great so I never really thought much about it. And no, you don't want to run them out of gas.

[AndyVT]

I got my 562xp last year as a back up for my old Jonsy 2171 which was getting "cranky.
The 562 is not quite the saw power wise as the 2171  but is  plenty powerful for the logging I do.
I got it from a local dealer who took it out back and "tuned" it {ran it a bit} before giving it to me and it has run like a top ever since.
Very easy starting saw and it is now my go to saw.

[barbender]

I personally do not find the 362 to give up much to my 2171 in power, and for how much lighter it is that's what I usually reach for.

[Skeans1]

My local hardware store is changing hands, and clearing out some items prior to the new owners taking over. I got a good deal on a Husqvarna 562XP.

This is the first auto-tune saw I have owned. I just went through the manual prior to starting it for the first time. I cold swear there was some sort of procedure you need to follow on the first run to get the auto-tune to set itself correctly. The manual makes no mention of that. The closest thing I can find is the statement "Avoid running at too high speed for the first 10 hours."

Is there anything else I should be doing for the initial run?

When we got the first ones in around 11/12 we were told to run them hard with a long bar sunk in a cut so they would adjust rich enough from day one.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Havent run my new one yet very much about 2 hrs bucking logs and felling, limbing & topping ash.
Actually not me but my son.
He likes it very much.
Walter showed  me the tuning method, amazing!

[Old Greenhorn]

I often read on these threads about folks flooding saws and could never figure out how they do that. Not being a snob or smarty pants. I have never flooded a saw on a cold start.
Yesterday I found out how. ;D
Took my 562 to the log yard to buck up a bunch of stuff for an order. I made the mistake of pulling on my muffs before I started the saw. Hit the decomp, primed the bulb, and choked it. Apparently with the muffs on, I missed that 'pop' that tells me it is ready to start and I should flip the choke off. I flooded it. That's when I learned the scrench in my kit would not fit that plug. >:(
Nothing for it, I headed back to the truck and got the 450 and finished up the day. It worked fine, but was more work buried in a log. Just before the rain hit I tried the 562 again and she started, so I ran it in a noodling cut for about a minute and all was good, smoothed right out. Just in time to pack up while I was getting soaked.
My 450 always had a very distinct 'burp' when choked for a cold start. The 562 is quite subtle and apparently easy to miss. Part of the learning curve. Loving that 562 more every time I use it even when I screw up.

[Skeans1]

@Old Greenhorn
We were always told the decompression was to be used well the cut and not all the time use of starting. With a good set of ear plugs in I can hear/feel the the first pop then pop the throttle to release the choke and have the saw warm up at low idle vs fast idle.

[Old Greenhorn]

Skeans, not trying to be rude, but I didn't quite understand the first sentence in your post. Maybe I am too tired?
At any rate, I only use the comp when it is cold and both the saw and I were a little chilly yesterday. ;D The 562 is a bight tight yet and cold pulls are tough on the shoulder. My 450 I pull without the decomp all the time when cool. At any rate, my mistake was missing the 'pop' then repeating the process, hence flooding it. Everybody has a first time right?
The big lesson was that I do not own a scrench that will fit the plug on this. I went through all my bags and my bench and none of the 6 I have would fit it, including the one that came with it. I'll have to talk with my dealer. :D
 In some ways this bothers me that the saw requires a different wrench. That means I will have to have a second wrench in my belt kits and bags because, as of now, I never can predict which saw I will grab.

[Skeans1]

@Old Greenhorn 
What I mean is it was to be use when the saw has been shut off In something like a sight cut, face, or back cut. When cold we were told to leave the decompressions alone when starting when cold even on all the saws I've ever been around the decompression were they can give you those false positives like you described. How do you start a saw drop start or between the legs deal?

[Spike60]

Tom; your dealer may have something for you back on his bench if you ask him nice. He's been kind of grouchy lately with the growing number of people wanting to bring in "all my stuff before you close".

Husky still doesn't provide a scrench with the saws for that 5/8 spark plug. There is one that comes with the back pack blowers, that also has a T27 on the end. But that doesn't help with adjusting the chain tension. I think there is still a Homelite scrench that is available with the flat blade on the end that will work for the spark plug, (but not the bar nuts), as the Homelite bar nuts were also 5/8. I've got that, plus 15mm and 17mm for the old Jonsereds, along with a couple of the typical 1/2" x 3/4" in my tool bag when I go cutting. Funny how many times the one I need got left home.

Think of your tool belt like a cartridge belt in an old western with all your screnches hanging on it.

[Old Greenhorn]

... How do you start a saw drop start or between the legs deal?

That drop start is too rough on my body and I once had a close call with it. I always hook the rear handle under my thigh. More control, easier on the shoulder.

[Old Greenhorn]

..... He's been kind of grouchy lately with the growing number of people wanting to bring in "all my stuff before you close"........

Well, my dealer is a pretty good guy and I try not to hassle him (too much). ;D I have passed your place 3 times in the past week during open hours, but was on a mission and returned after you were closed.
 Glad you mentioned the the onslaught. I was not aware, but it makes sense. I was going to bring both my working saws in for a check. The 562 I am just curious to see what the computer says with anything that might be learned. The 450 I just can't seem to get the carb adjustment just right for WOT cutting, it pulses a little. I know it just needs a tweak, but I lack that finesse and don't have a tach yet. I do have one basket case I am trying to salvage (350) and wanted to see what you had in used parts. Might be the seals? Maybe I should wait, but I suspect it will get worse. At any rate, I have no intention of adding to your repair pile.
 But that scrench, I can't live without something. I pick them up all over because they fall out of pouches in the woods from time to time so I put one in about every bag and belt I have. Now I guess I need two. It's tight clearance to get on that plug with the heat shield, so I am looking for a longer necked one, but I'll buy whatever fits. You say the plug is 5/8"? So the right wrench is 5/8x3/4, or 5/8x1/2? I am not awake yet, still on my first cup.
 I am milling again today, but maybe I am due for a little 'Sunday drive' when I run out of steam. It bothers me not having that wrench, it's my OCD. 
 Hey, have you seen that saw that Bill picked up at Boonville yet? It's a honey. If I think of it I might bring that down (if you haven't seen it) just for you to see as a collector of fine saws.

[barbender]

I've had my 562 for 2 years and didn't even know that the plug was a different size😁 

[Big_eddy]

All three of my 562s came with a scrench that fits (plus torx wrenches and the winter boot) Plus I bought a couple of spares for the gator and tractor toolboxes. 

Scrench

522 52 11-01

Canada thing?

[axeman2021]

Don't know about the Husky Auto tune, but with my Stihl Auto tune you get it started then quickly take it up to max speed, you can hear it making changes from high to low speed,when it stops adjusting the sound stays steady, you give it a rap up and it's ready to cut logs.

I find you don't have to do this adjusting everytime, only as the weather changes from warm to hot then to cool and then real cold you get used to it and feel soon it's how all saws will be all Auto tune's.

[John Mc]

Liking the saw so far, though I have not had the opportunity to put a lot of hours on it.

I did have a question: the area behind the clutch seems rather exposed. I can see a lot of what it think is the oil pump mechanism - the white plastic in this photo. All I have removed is the brake cover and the bar and chain. Is it normal for that to be so exposed, or is my saw missing a part? All of my other saws (significantly older) are much more protected in this area.



 

[AndyVT]

JohnMc, my 562 has the same setup as yours.
I have put many hard hours on it over the last couple of years and have had zero issues with it. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Interesting observation John. I have never looked at mine from that angle. Next time I have the cover off mine I will peek under it's skirt. Probably Spike will answer up before I can do it though. The next couple of days are loaded for me.
 As a side note, I threw that X-cut chain on my 450 and now it's a totally different saw! (see reply 13 above.) I was gonna have Spike take a lot at it, but now the [pulsing at WOT in a cut is totally gone. It bore cuts like a dream and I cannot bog the engine at all. An incredible change that I can't explain except to postulate that this chain is freer cutting than the LPX chain I had been using for years. I've only really been bucking hemlock today, but man I am happy.
 I wonder what other folks who have these newer saws with the X-cut are finding?

[Spike60]

John, nothing missing on that saw, that's how they are. Hasn't been a problem at all, because we rarely sell those pumps. Early 562 oil pumps did not have bushings where the mounting bolts go, and they would sometimes get loose and that would take out the oil pump. That was corrected some years ago.

Tom, the X-cut .325 suffers from not being "full chisel" which means that it's no good and nobody is allowed to talk about it on these sites. We may even get banned for doing so. Similar to the Oregon 95TXL or whatever they call it. Narrow kerf, semi chisel that in addition to being pretty quick is also pretty forgiving. Holds an edge and quick to file back with just a few strokes when necessary.

Have not seen whatever saw Bill picked up, but if he doesn't stop in and get that very last 395 I set aside for him that might be a saw that he never sees. (kidding)

Have plenty of 350 family stuff laying around. Come up and grab whatever you want. Bottom ends don't go on those things very often. Does it have the plastic intake clamp? Not a big deal to plug in the 562 just to look at the numbers. Just let me know when your coming.   

[Old Greenhorn]

Well Bob, if that X-cut .325 is no good, I will take that all day long. :D I had been square filing that LPX chain and had great results, but tired of the square filing. It seemed to put a pretty good load on the saw too because it took a really good chip. But if we are not permitted to discuss such things in mixed company, I understand and will cease. ;D
 I nearly came in today, but the mill issues had me distracted and then I realized I had run the tank in my truck so low, I couldn't make a trip out and back safely, so I went to town, got gas and did other errands. Looks like I won't have time to make it out before Monday or Tuesday now. As a self employed retired guy, I have two bosses (I don't count) and they are both cracking the whip. :D
 Bill got that saw at Boonville and when we were carrying it back to the trailer he said "Maybe I should take this for Bob to look over and check it out. Might need a little tuneup" I thought that was a capitol idea. It's a man's saw for sure. I ain't gonna throw it in my truck, that will be his pleasure, but I need to get a photo and that should do for now. I know will slobber at the opportunity to get into it. I will remind him about that 395, he never has enough of those. What with running them over, straight gassing and whatnot. ;D :D

 As for that 350, I should put the head back together and let you see what it feels like. I know you have already diagnosed this one and pronounced it dead. But I can put some time and material in it just for fun. Heck I might even put a .325 x-cut on it. :D (assuming I can actually fix it.) I am thinking it is a good saw to leave at the mill so I don't need to shuttle one everyday or a beater in the truck box I can forget about until I need it. Those are good little saws.

[barbender]

That 95vp or whatever the Oregon narrow kerf chain was called years back was confusing. It always fooled me into thinking it cut excellent and was easy to keep sharp, until others would tell me that it was "safety chain" and didn't cut worth a darn😁
 
 I did have a penchant for blowing the non-rebuildable tips out of those Oregon "micro-lite" bars though, sometimes my chain would last longer than the bar, that was frustrating!

[Guydreads]

Definitely rebuild that 350, my favorite saw to use is my 2150 (same saw). Power to weight is great, sturdy. With a slightly   modified muffler she runs really well. Actually all I did was buy a china muffler for like 10 bucks lol and it had a much larger exhaust port. I rebuilt the bottom end with China too...... really regretting that now. But, I was slightly more inexperienced than I am now  and really need new bearings and seals lol.

[John Mc]

Thanks for the reply, Andy, OGH, & Spike. I've not noticed any problems with that area I was concerned about being exposed on the 562XP. I've just never owned a saw that was so open in that area, so I wondered if it was missing a cover or something. I suppose it might make it easier for the chips to get out?

For some reason, I missed the notification that there were responses on this post, so have not checked back in a while.