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New and looking for 460 info?

Started by chainsaw samurai, January 23, 2014, 01:59:15 AM

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JohnG28

If he got a DP cover at a dealer and they put it on the warranty would remain intact.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

sharkey

Here are a couple videos that may help you understand the hop up process.  If you are familiar with cutting squish bands on snowmobile engines you will already understand.  At 6000 ft you will need all the compression that you can get.  .020 is the target tolerance between piston and head, measured at TDC (usually at the edge). 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3Q6OsmMXEU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyuhi12zlp8

Of further interest is the study of time area.  This concerns how long the ports stay open, how wide they can be made and what shapes make the best power.  Gordon Jennings and Gordon Blair both wrote books on the subject. 

http://www.datafan.com/Horsepower_Blog/gordon-jennings-two-stroke-tuners-handbook/

http://books.sae.org/r-161/

MacDizzy is another reference who uses computer aided design software to find hidden power.  http://www.macdizzy.com/19893hopup.htm

chainsaw samurai

  This is great stuff! Thanks everyone. The mandrel set up on the lathe would have been much easier than machining the two plates I used to chuck it up in the Bridgeport table. I am a very novice machinist so everything takes me three times as long as it should. What do you guys think of the aftermarket big bore kits ?
are they any good? from what I have found there is china, taiwan and Italy. I don't make a living with this saw so longevity is not as important to me as it is to the real sawyers. I always got the old 390 for a backup.
                                      Thanks again for all the help.

Komatsu_Mech1

So I just got done reading through this thread, and I got to say there is a lot of good stuff in here. I also am not a full time tree cutter but a gear head with a 460. I have been trying to figure out just how to build it up. From the looking around I have done I believe a 54mm top end kit from baileys would work as a bigger bore kit, (correct me if I am wrong???) and with some work and the right fuel and exhaust work it could pretty cool. As you said Chainsaw Samurai there is always the 390 to fall back on.

I look forward to learning more!

chainsaw samurai

The 460 is kinda like the Chevelle of the chainsaws. Light for its size, tons of factory power and lots of room for modification. I am thinking of a 54mm bb kit too. After reading the links in Sharkey's post I am ready to start really playing. I have the original OEM cylinder (slightly scored)to practice on. Although I might try to find an old used one or two that is truly junk, one of the things I have learned from this thread is that a little scoring does no t always mean you need a new cylinder(wish I knew that before I shelled out the 200bucks). And from some other threads on here, I have learned that the AM is constantly improving their products. I don't use it like a tree service, when I get back from camping or wood cutting I always detail clean my 390, service it and have it all ready for the next time. I will do the same with this 460 and I think the am kit will work out for me and be cost effective. 100 bucks and a few hrs of fun!! If I needed the saw to make a living with I would definitely send it out to one of the guru's for a "woods porting" job on the OEM cylinder. With their knowledge and skill you would have proven OEM reliability and more performance, but that would cost quite a bit more and not be as fun. And fun is what it is all about for me 8)
     

chainsaw samurai

Hey Andy, What is the deal with a wide nose(13teeth I think) vs the 11 tooth es bar that I have? Does the wider nose cut Faster? (less of a bend less friction maybe?) We were looking at my buddies old 038super and noticed that the tip on the 28"bar was a little fatter than on Our 25's, then I checked out the 20" bar on my 390 and it has a wider tip too. Just curious why they would make the different sizes.
                                                                            Thanks, Lance

Andyshine77

The wide nose is better for plunge cuts and it reduces wear. The smaller nose bar will have less kick back tendency because of the smaller radius. This however reduces plunge cutting efficiency.
Andre.

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