3 phase planer

[alanh]

I have a line on getting an 18 inch commercial planer from a high school that has eliminated its industrial arts program (kids dont need to learn any of that stuff, dont get me going!?), Its 3 phase, I have 220 in my shop, can anybody recommend a good , practical phase convertor?

[bushhog920]

Phase Converters & Voltage Stabilizers â€" Palmdale, California â€" Phase-A-Matic, Inc.

[shelby78]

Have you considered replacing the motor? Depending on the HP it may be cheaper than trying to convert it? I run a VFD on my Metal lathe to get 3 phase from one. I chose this route as 3 phase is a smoother running motor and on a metal lathe it helps with surface finish. Not sure if its any help on a planer.

Price goes up quickly when HP goes up. There are also different types of phase convertors (which you may know). Some only give you 2/3 of the rated hp. Static is 2/3 power, Rotary is full power.

While this is another point that probably wont effect a planner, but with a VFD you can adjust the motor rpm to any speed with full power. I can dial my motor back to 20 rpm and have full torque.

If you ever plan to get other equipment that could benefit from something like that and you don't swap motors a VFD may be worth a look. I'm in Canada so prices for you will vary but my VFD was about $360 and is good for 1.5 hp.




 

[YellowHammer]

American Rotary, lifetime warranty.  I've had one for years, never any issues.

[alanh]

Ok, Thanks, I havent seen it yet so unsure of the hp, amps, we do have one of the phase o matics on an old bridgeport at work that we`ve had good luck with.

[Al_Smith]

A converter is in essence just a three phase motor using a capacitor start system with running capacitors to counter act the the inductive lag of the third or manufactured phase .They are relatively easy to make .--Google is your friend ----

I might add the so called "solid state " converters are nothing but a capacitor start circuit and the usable HP is only about 59 percent of the motor HP rating . 

[alanh]

I have some more  on the planer, Is a Rockwell 18, best guess` are 70`s era, report  has it  "chatters on the infeed and/or depending on the situation or material taking too much off at once, or not feeding at all"
 My Question is, are these things still servicable? parts available? some quick online research says pressure bar, rollers, cutterhead adjustment...any body have any experience with one? Its free so I plan on grabbing it 

 

 

[tacks Y]

What a GREAT find. I am glad you are in Ct, if my district was giving this away I would be *pithed. I have 5 school machines in my shop all by bid. Grab it and run.   

[Dewey]

I had one built for my 4 sider.... out of a 20 HP 3 phase motor... When running it is maintain 7different motors putting out enough for 85 HP

[Al_Smith]

Generally speaking a converter will start about the same HP it's made for. In other words a 20 HP will start a 20 HP and run up to about 3 times that amount .However if you had a number of motors on the line each one adds to the induction somewhat and most likely could run more total HP .
You could add additional  capacitors to each motor I suppose if the dummy leg was under voltage .I've never had to myself .

[tacks Y]

Alanh, Did it make home yet? I would look at changing the motor. I have a Rockwell 24" from a school, it works pretty good. Thinking of a spiral head. Tried to change motor on it but it is and odd thing so running on a converter. 

[Larry]

"chatters on the infeed and/or depending on the situation or material taking too much off at once, or not feeding at all"

The worm and possibly the matching gear in the feed is wore out.  The only place to get one is to have a machine shop make one $$$$.  You might put an add on WTB on the OWWM web site.  They did a group buy from a shop several years ago and somebody might have an extra.

I had one of those planers.  An excellent machine and even if you have to buy the gear worth the investment.

Power it with a rotary phase converter.  American Rotary is a good brand but its also easy to build one.  VFD's are great and I have a herd in my shop but offer no advantages in this application and two disadvantages.....expensive, and a solid state device that normally is not repairable when it fails.

[alanh]

not home yet, sometime this week, not too excited to hear about the gear , I was hoping it could be some kind of adjustment/shim etc, but I`ll get it here and take a look

[alanh]

Its a 7.5 H.P., 200 volt, looks like 60 amp from the tag, the "catch" on getting it free is I need to get it out of the school woodshop. I need to jack it up enough to get a pallet jack under it so it will fit out the 42" door. do you think if I put some thick wood blocks in it and cranked up the table against them would be safe to jack it from the table. Best interweb info puts it at 1100 lbs

 

[btulloh]

Engine hoist

[YellowHammer]

Personally I would not touch the tables.  An engine hoist should work.  Lift from the frame somehow (mine is a different brand but has threaded holes for lifting eyes) or put a lever bar under the base and jack it up and put a machine dolly under it (you can rent them). 

[tacks Y]

If going the block route use 2, put them on the close to the frame against the cutter head. Use a good block as to not put pressure on the rollers. I like the engine hoist idea with lift rings. If not 2 straps on cutter head next to bearings.

[Stephen1]

Following. Mine 20" has 2 bars that slide in and out under the deck , I lift it with my forks . The engine lift and straps is the way to go.

[TKehl]

Never had one of those in particular, but betting the base has a gap somewhere, maybe more like sitting on 4 feet, not flush with the floor.  I would use prybar to lever it up and start cribbing your way around until it is to height.

[farmfromkansas]

When I raised my equipment up to put a wood floor in my shop, used a long flat bar to get the machines up enough to get blocks under them.  Start with some 1x blocks and 2x4 blocks. Just need to get the machine high enough to get the forks under, and it has some ears on the bottom  for the purpose of bolting it to the floor, which is where I would start prying it up. If you need to roll the machine, take some pieces of pipe long enough to go clear across the base and a little long, then use 3 pieces of pipe and roll the machine, then as you move the machine along, take the rear pipe and move it to the front always keeping 2 pipes under the machine.

[muggs]

I noticed you said the motor was 200V. You may have to change the motor or use a vfd If you supply  it with 240 V, it will overheat. Something to consider.

[tacks Y]

Maybe 208v?

[Al_Smith]

It would probably work on 240 volts or the smoke would just leak out and never run again .

[Larry]

Never had one of those in particular, but betting the base has a gap somewhere, maybe more like sitting on 4 feet, not flush with the floor.  I would use prybar to lever it up and start cribbing your way around until it is to height.

Pry bar will work fine on a machine of that weight.  Even easier is a johnson bar which is a really big pry bar.

I've moved bigger machines with a johnson bar, wedges, and water pipe.

[alanh]

Started looking into the rotary phase convertors..phew $$, would a 7.5 hp single phase compressor motor work?