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Introduction and sawmill build

Started by Rybot, April 02, 2021, 10:51:42 AM

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Rybot

Good morning everyone,

I just joined the forum after lurking as a guest for a while and enjoying the great info on here. I have been interested in sawmilling for many years and it seems my interest is coming to a head. After much thought and flip-flopping back and forth I have decided to build my own bandsaw-mill. I was originally leaning towards a woodmizer lx 25 (mostly because of cost) but considering my day job as a welding instructor and love of building things I figured I should just build my own. Besides, I will (read should) be able to get more saw for the money. I will attach a cad image of what I have now and keep you updated as the build progresses.

Again, thanks for all the great content.

JRWoodchuck

I would add a log stop for short logs and make sure the beam you use to support your band wheels is stout you don't want any flex there if your using a single member.  
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Rybot

Thanks. My intent is to get the basic design built and in use and I can add additional log stops/clamps easily later on. While this is only a two post mill and has a single member supporting the bandwheels it should all be quite stout. the beam to which the bandwheels are mounted is 3x3x3/16 square tubing. I am loosely basing my design off of Mathew Cremona's bandsaw (if you are familiar with his youtube channel. If not, you should look him up.)

thecfarm

Make it long!! I have a mill that can get 20 foot logs. I cut a 16 foot log and I have 4 feet of room to spare, not inches. The extra room gets the head out of the way too. 
Make a place to cut short logs, even 3 feet log. Use that place a few times, and you will be glad you did.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

JRWoodchuck

My mill has four posts but essentially only uses 2. I think 3x3 3/16s should do the trick. Make the sliders that sleeve over your vertical posts a bit longer to help it not want to bind while going up and down. I think I made mine 6" originally then had to go back and made them 12"ish. How wide are you going. The wider you go the more stout it needs to be. I've watched a few of Matt's videos pretty nice saw he's built.  Another thing I would suggest is building your width around blade lengths that are readily available so you don't have to have any custom made. Mine are 158" which gives me about 32" between the guides. I run 19" band wheels from surplus center. I like wood mizer blades the best so far between cooks, kasko, and wm. Cooks makes great blade guides that can be added to any mill. In my opinion they are a must. 
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Rybot

Quote from: thecfarm on April 03, 2021, 05:43:51 AM
Make it long!! I have a mill that can get 20 foot logs. I cut a 16 foot log and I have 4 feet of room to spare, not inches. The extra room gets the head out of the way too.
Make a place to cut short logs, even 3 feet log. Use that place a few times, and you will be glad you did.
I have been going back and forth on size but I am thinking I will likely make the bed 20 ft. since that is standard length for steel anyways. And yes, I will make sure there is a place to cut small stuff.
Quote from: JRWoodchuck on April 03, 2021, 11:09:44 AM
My mill has four posts but essentially only uses 2. I think 3x3 3/16s should do the trick. Make the sliders that sleeve over your vertical posts a bit longer to help it not want to bind while going up and down. I think I made mine 6" originally then had to go back and made them 12"ish. How wide are you going. The wider you go the more stout it needs to be. I've watched a few of Matt's videos pretty nice saw he's built.  Another thing I would suggest is building your width around blade lengths that are readily available so you don't have to have any custom made. Mine are 158" which gives me about 32" between the guides. I run 19" band wheels from surplus center. I like wood mizer blades the best so far between cooks, kasko, and wm. Cooks makes great blade guides that can be added to any mill. In my opinion they are a must.
If you look closely at the design (I will post some more pictures) you will notice I am using linear rails for the saw head so there should be no issue with binding. 
I have intended all along to go with a standard blade size but am still trying to decide exactly how wide. Since the cost to make the mill wider is actually not very significant I am leaning towards 48" max log.



TroyC

Welcome to a great place!
20' bed rails will not cut a 20' log. Maybe 16. Your blade does not start at the beginning of the 20' bed rail.
Good luck on the build. What size engine?

TroyC

A 48" log is a monster! Got loading equipment?

SawyerTed

A walnut or white oak 48" log 8' long is going to weigh in the 5,800 to 6,000 pound range.  Even a poplar that size will be 4,000ish.  Better have a stout bed on the mill and something big to move logs like that!
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Crusarius

I don't know where your located but around here box tubing comes in 24' standard length where angle and solid come in 20' standards.

I made my bed 24' long because that is what the 2x6x.188 came standard for length.

I like your saddle detail for the bearings, the only thing that would concern me there is being so close together alignment is going to be very touchy. a 1/4 turn on a screw will be the difference between on the wheels and off.

When I originally built my mill I set it up for a 158 blade. gave me 31" between the guides. later I decided I wanted to cut wider so I added an extension to the sawframe and an extension for my tensioning ram. now my sawmill is setup to run 158 or 176" blade. works pretty slick. very easy changeover with no realignment. 

make sure you have some type of physical stop on the sliding part of the sawframe. Otherwise when a blade lets go your going to be searching for the wheel and whatever else goes with it :)

Rybot

Quote from: TroyC on April 03, 2021, 01:24:56 PM
A 48" log is a monster! Got loading equipment?

It is... and nope. If I ever cut a log that big it will likely be only a couple times and I do have friends with equipment to borrow. My thoughts are just that if I am building a mill myself not only is the cost of going wider (for that once in a lifetime log) minimal but it will also make my mill more stable since it will be in a trailer configuration for portability.

Quote from: Crusarius on April 03, 2021, 02:02:28 PM
make sure you have some type of physical stop on the sliding part of the sawframe. Otherwise when a blade lets go your going to be searching for the wheel and whatever else goes with it :)

This is something that never occurred to me.....Good advice.

RAYAR

Quote from: Rybot on April 02, 2021, 11:06:32 PM
While this is only a two post mill and has a single member supporting the bandwheels it should all be quite stout. the beam to which the bandwheels are mounted is 3x3x3/16 square tubing.
This size square tubing is way too light for your band wheel beam. For a mill the size you're building, I wouldn't use anything smaller than 4"X4"X1/4" and would more likely go with 6"X6"X1/4" or 4"X6"X1/4". The tension needed for the blade puts a lot of stress on this beam and it doesn't take much to cause blade tracking problems. This would be the most important part of getting it right the first time.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

Crusarius

if you want to use a single member for the sawframe I would lean more towards a 2x6x.188. The single 2" is going to bow when the band is tensioned and as Rayar pointed out depending on band tension will change your tracking.

I ended up with 2 2x2x.188 wall and it works great cause I ended up with 2 2.5x2.5x.188 pieces that slide on those connected together and the tensioner is in between the beams. This allows me to push straight on the sliding part and not side load it causing the frame to want to bend more. 

not the best picture but the quickest one to find.








Check out my gallery for more details.

ktm250rider

My advice is to build your back stops so that they are all connected and can be manipulated from the side of the mill without having to step over the rails.  All 3 of mine started out with a lock nut and each one had to be raised and lowered.  It doesn't sound like much but it is very tiring stepping over the rails every time. 

Rybot

Thanks everyone for the great advice. I may have a source for some 5x5x.25 square tubing which I will likely use if I can get it. 

A question....What are your thoughts on blade guards? I definitely don't want it to be wide open like some of the DIYs I see online but Fully enclosed like the commercial models is a lot more works and expense. Some of the saws I have seen (when they use tires for bandwheels) just use trailer fenders or the like to cover most of the blade so it doesn't flip all over when it breaks.....Thoughts?

JRWoodchuck

I built mine out of plywood for the faces and 1/16" steel plate for the top it's fully enclosed and I like it. Broken blades do funny things 
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Brob1969

Definitely cover those band-wheels!  Without, you have no way of knowing where that really sharp blade is heading if it breaks! 
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

Crusarius

I have 2 16 gauge stainless covers over the wheels and the top is a piece of 5" angle. The outlet side the guard stops just above the blade and has a rubber flap to redirect debris. the other side goes around until it hits the bed at the lowest setting. that is the operator side.

I test drove it without guards. that was scary. I like guards

another piece of advice I can give. where I work they use 1.25" steel banding. I had them cut and make me a loop 158" long and 176" long. I used those loops for mockup and alignment. The banding does not bite nearly as bad as a fresh new blade!

Rybot

That's about what I expected to hear. Everyone mind posting pictures of your guard setup?

trimguy

 

 I built mine from sheet metal off the sides of an old cook stove and dryer.

 

Rybot

Thanks. I think I will do full enclosure.

Quote from: trimguy on April 05, 2021, 10:32:04 PM


 I built mine from sheet metal off the sides of an old cook stove and dryer.

 


Your engine looks like the HF 420 CC Predator engine? if so what are your thoughts? enough horsepower? That is the engine I am planning on.

Iwawoodwork

On my mighty mite mill the guards are all metal and as a newbie at sawing I have ruined several blades when I inadvertently jerked the saw backward and the blade came off hitting the guards.  After 3-4 of those (slow learner) I lined the guards with rubber belting which has saved me blades several times, however the belting is not very durable but it was free.  I am now thinking plywood with UHMV  lining would be preferable and save some blades $$$$$ during the learning process.

JoshNZ

I made mine out of aluminium sheet and have had blade come off twice, no damage either times maybe a tooth missing but maybe it was already, I haven't thrown any out since I got the mill running yet!

ktm250rider

I built mine with spare metal plate and plywood covers before I even ran the saw.  It was probably one of the first things finished.  I did do a test run without them and the blade came off at full speed.  If it didn't hit a stack of firewood I had, I think it would still be rolling.  Definitely something you want contained.

Rybot

Making some design progress. Haven't started on the guard yet but I think I have the bandwheel beam complete. I decided to go with 6x2x.188 rect. tubing since several other components will be made of the same and I will likely have plenty left over to do the beam.


 

I still have to figure out engine mounting. I really want to mount the engine similar to the woodmizer lx 25 where the drive belt goes between the blade and the bandwheel (belt pulley). Thoughts?

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