Hello, Just updating and maybe get some feedback, I have installed the new shanks in my saw, half b8's and half b9's bits are sharp. I ran a couple logs yesterday and it sawed well .but a couple of times the blade was a bit wavy. I shut down and didn't notice any warm spots . Again this morning went to saw and blade right of the bat started tapping guides and was waving again. I pulled the saw off which makes me nervous since those carbide teeth aren't forgiving if they hit anything hard. I cleaned the fast collar. turned the loose collar on my lathe as I could see the paper trick was showing the outer edge of collar wasn't pressing on blade. Put the saw and collar back on and ran her, no tapping or waving. Whats strange is when the saw was tapping if I cut into the log and pulled out an inch or two the tapping would stop . When I made a complete pass it sawed fine but went back to tapping afterward. I am running the saw at 650 rpm and decreasing or increasing doesn't help. Increasing actually made it seem worse. I am slowly on a shoestring budget trying to get my mill to saw better with tweaking little things , before getting blade hammered until it is the last thing I can do to improve the performance. I have read some of the previous post about blade problems and I am sure there are a few things I can still do. I just hope when I eventually do get my saw or saws hammered I don't have to return to the saw doc to soon. Getting a ride up to PA will be hard enough. Ok done rambling thanks all for making me feel welcome to your forum. James P.
do you mean the outside is not touching the saw or is if it's not that was part of the prob also the diff in the bits could be causing some uneven tension I'm guessing you have a small high spot somewhere it can be invisible to the eye buts it there also be sure the guide pins are behind all the rings sometimes just one or two are a little diff and they will barely touch the pins BUt until you get the saw hammerd you could be chasing shadows even on a budget sometimes a dime can cost a dollar Thats the first thing I would do jmo
Chico
hi Chico, I have the guides set right and shanks and bits are aligned . I was concerned that tension might be a problem with the different gauge shanks. When I had half new shanks mixed with the old saw seemed fine. Still chattered a bit but cut much better. after installing the other half of new shanks. It seemed to get worse. I descided to pull the saw and I could see on the collar the piece of manila folder washer I made didn't have a pressure mark about 1/8 of an inch around the collar. I machined it the way Jeff saw doc suggest. saw has improved greatly. I sawed with it this evening and sawed much better. no tapping on guides and saw ran nice an straight.I will tomorrow check saw plumb and lead and make sure everything is in check. I am cutting what would normally be firewood so they aren't the straightest not free logs. But I am pleased with the results . I know what you mean by chasing shadows. So far though things are improving. saw hammering isn't an option in the near future. thanks James
well this morning I checked the saw for plumb and was a bit out from top to bottom 1/2" I have my husk frame attached to the side of my track and over the last couple years it had settled. Also squared up the knees to the saw. One day I would like to have concrete footings poured but that will have to wait. I don't mind crawling around and shimming things up until then, Just when I get to sawing more frequently its something I will have to routinely check. this might be common sense to some but I can't think of a way to check the saw teeth for alignment. for a smoother cut. I realize I may have to straighten a shoulder if its not just the tooth and shank not aligned. time to go cut down a tree and give her a try.thanks
James P
To check tooth alignment with each other you need a spider gauge. Seneca Saw makes one.
Here's what it looks like:
http://www.senecasaw.com/atlas_gauge.php
Here's where to get it:
http://www.senecasaw.com/atlas.php
Of you could make one pretty quickly.
Ron thank you, that's just what I was looking for.
James P.
James,1/2" out on plumb is alot on a headsaw.Stability of the track and husk is very important any movement due to foundation setteling will cause the saw to wobble and chatter in the guides as the carriage moves,and the track shakes,once in the cut it would mask that effect. Frank C.
You might want to give Jim Kline a call at Kline's Mill Supply. He's up in Pennsburg, PA, which is outside of Quakerstown. Its probably a lot closer to you than some of the other suppliers, and he might even deliver things to Del. I know he picks up saws and has them hammered. He also handles teeth, shanks, and other mill supplies. (215) 679-6726
Thanks again Ron, i did map search yesterday of sawdoc jeff. He is way up there IMO. Just south of Altoona. I will do the same for Klines. I worked up in Conshohocken Pa . have heard of Quakertown. I am in what they call slower lower Delaware. I believe we started pumkin chunkin . at least the mechanical style.
Frank C. I think I got her a lot better. i use to be able to here the saw ring just by banging my hand on the husk frame. So now it is square and supported. I know in the future I will slide every thing out and put in concrete .
Also if any body has any pics of the round setworks scales or gauge I would be interested in them. I would like to change my clock face to actual measurement and change the ratio of pulleys so every revolution of the shaft would be a 3rd of the scale so its less confusing. thanks all.
James P.
James the saw really needs to be totally separate from the track I would definately do it when the opor exists also I don't know how the clock is set up but if it's correct you should be able to just transfer your measurements on it using either plastic nos or paintnyour own just let the pointer barely miss the nos makes it much easier to read imo
Chico