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Daily carnage thread

Started by mike_belben, July 23, 2018, 11:44:49 PM

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beenthere

Agree, just replace the filter assembly, if wrenching on this one fails to unscrew the cup that holds the cartridge. 

For sure, I'd try blue creeper first. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2022, 01:15:22 PMFor sure, I'd try blue creeper first.
I have it so I would use it.  But @teakwood would need to send off for it and wait a month or two for delivery in C.R. ;) So, a swap out would be way faster!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Walnut Beast

Put a little heat to it and get your wrench/strap up towards the top of the canister 

Hilltop366

Items with a rubber ring seal needs continuous slow steady (turning) pressure to be removed, a quick jerk like a bolt usually won't work.

teakwood

Thanks guys, will try the heat thing first. How about my guesses on the oils, am i certain with it? 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Iwawoodwork

The filter with the size of hose and low pressure clamps looks like it could be the return line hydraulic filter, does one of the lines go from filter to tank? If it does then it's a hyd return filter.

teakwood

Heated the filter housing and it turned open and  turns out that the screw on top was holding the whole thing together, feel like a complete moron 


It's a hydraulic return filter, the old filter says 262F on it, but I'm not sure if this was the correct filter to start with.  I cross referenced the number and the new numbers throw out fuel filters? Can hyd filters and fuel filters be the same? It's 8" long, 3" OD, 1" ID
 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Hilltop366

Well you got it apart, learned something and didn't break anything....i'd call it a success.

beenthere

Does not look like there was hyd. oil in this filter, that or it drained very clean of hyd. oil. 

But if in any doubt, I'd change out both the housing and its appropriate filter together. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Resonator

X2. Online they sell a threaded filter head with filter as an assembly, listed by pump GPM / PSI so it can fit many applications.
Under bark there's boards and beams, somewhere in between.
Cuttin' while its green, through a steady sawdust stream.
I'm chasing the sawdust dream.

Proud owner of a Wood-Mizer 2017 LT28G19

Roundhouse

My workhorse trailer is my skid steer trailer. I bought it used to move my skid steer around, a decade or so ago. It's been useful in so many ways beyond moving that machine. It has hauled hay, logs, lumber, cars, scrap, sheds, tractors, a forklift, tin roofing, and many other things. As they say "it owes me nothing at this point". It's always been a little loud, clunks and bangs, which I attributed to the slack in the drawbar as it has a surge braking setup. Pretty troublefree, I redid the taillights a year or two ago, tires too. I was dismayed at how quickly the tires were wearing. 

With two 6000lb axles I'm usually using the trailer well below the rated capacity. For a time I've had a cracked leaf. After moving my "new" forklift last summer I had two broken leaves by fall (both sides of the front axle). This became a project-in-waiting over the winter. As usual there is no shortage of tasks lined up for the trailer so as soon as decent spring weather arrived I started in on the spring replacement. Thinking I would save some hassle by hiring it done I took it over to a local shop. Once they measured the springs they didn't have a source for the correct size and referred me to a local parts store, we combed through the catalog for a half hour but couldn't find a match there either. I did order replacement bolts, u-bolts and such. The shop had recommended that since the old ones often need to be cut off anyway. 

It took some searching but there was a place on Amazon, of course, with the right replacement springs. I also determined if the old hardware was going to be cut off anyway, I could do that myself and save a few bucks. Over the course of last week the new springs arrived with all of the hardware to springs and mounting hardware on both sides of the front axle. It was nice to look forward to the prospect of assembling the replacement springs over the weekend. I went out and made the last couple cuts taking the shackles off the equalizers. I knew the bushings on this old trailer were pretty played out but wasn't seeking perfection when I moved the equalizer to see how much play there was. My heart sank when I could move it up and down a good 2 inches, bonus carnage. I would not have the trailer back together this weekend.

So it was back online seeking out replacement equalizers and more shackles and more bolts and more bushings. I was able to find a kit that had the correct size for both equalizers, enough shackles and bolts to replace the hardware on the rear axle spring mounts. Greaseable "wet" bolts, enough to do the front and rear springs on both sides of both axles, the regular bolts bought the week before will just have to be extras for future use. By late this week I should have everything for the complete overhaul. More extensive than I intended but it forces me to do the job right with new bolts and bushings on every joint even on the "good" rear springs where I'm sure the bushings are wore out as well. I'm looking forward to a smooth pulling trailer without all the clunks and bangs and tires that wear a lot better the next time I replace them. 

It was a beautiful day here so I took a couple hours to get ahead on the dirty work of cutting, grinding and torching the old bolts out of the way (all except the rear mounts of the rear axle). Once the latest shipment of parts is here I can start right in on the install.

The trailer in question a couple years ago with one of the many various loads it's hauled:




The trailer with the front propped up to facilitate removal of the front axle springs. They are off and I'm about to get the last bit of front bolt out and then get the center bolt out of the equalizer:




This is the right hand side equalizer with all the play in it. Yes, I should have seen this years ago but with old iron I don't always go looking for trouble, need to know basis and all of that. The other side was not this bad but the bushing was gone and there was plenty of wear. It started with the broken springs but the result will be a much needed suspension refresh:



Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

moosehunter

Wow! You got your money's worth out of that equalizer!!

mh
"And the days that I keep my gratitude
Higher than my expectations
Well, I have really good days".    Ray Wylie Hubbard

kiko


GRANITEstateMP

kiko, is that custom? Bet it'll buff right out!
Hakki Pilke 1x37
Kubota M6040
Load Trail 12ft Dump Trailer
2015 GMC 3500HD SRW
2016 Polaris 450HO
2016 Polaris 570
SureTrac 12ft Dump Trailer

Hilltop366

I'm not sure how you do that?

Perhaps running in to something hard with the bucket tilted down?

Crusarius

Looks to me like with the SSQA on there has no physical stop so it over extended and crashed the ram into the loader arm bending it just a little then ...
 

wait, I see a physical stop but it does not contact it. When I tried putting another SSQA from a different Kubota on mine I had the same problem. I almost did the same thing before I realized what was happening.

Resonator

Looks familiar. Many years ago I had a Farmall 340 that came with a home built loader. Shortly after getting it I tried tilting the bucket vertical on the cutting edge and using it like a bulldozer... and bent the front cylinder rams into a boomerang shape. ::)
Under bark there's boards and beams, somewhere in between.
Cuttin' while its green, through a steady sawdust stream.
I'm chasing the sawdust dream.

Proud owner of a Wood-Mizer 2017 LT28G19

kiko

The pin and bushing on that side is toast.  That coupled with an over load likely caused it

beenthere

Can happen if tilting the bucket all the way down and a bit further back, then back drag with that bucket. 
Puts tremendous compression force on the tilt cylinders when fully extended and they can fold (bend) up like shown in the photo.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Roundhouse

Here's an update on the trailer repair. The kit with the equalizers arrived in record time on Monday morning, days ahead of schedule. This allowed me to take a few steps each day and have it all put together by the weekend. For anyone who hasn't taken a careful look at double axle equalizers here is one of the new ones compared to the old above and below. Also the center bolt from the old and new, with so much wear I'm glad to have the new bolts as the greaseable version.




Once the old hardware was cleared out of the way it was time to start the install. By reading some reviews online I was alerted to some of the struggles others had had in getting the new bolts seated all the way. The ridges just below the head apparently made it a pain to pound them in and seat them. Given what it took to get the old bolts out I was a believer. To make things a little easier on myself I put a slight taper on those ridges with the angle grinder before doing the install. I was pleased with the result, it still took a few good solid blows (using a short small piece of steel pipe to work around the grease zerks) from the mallet but nothing extreme and the bolt was locked in well while fastened in place.




The shopping and sourcing paid off and everything fit back together very well. One nice thing about doing it yourself is being able to take your time and be thorough including painting the pieces as they go together. The center bolt may have been a "universal" size for use with wider springs as well. When I installed the castle nut it went on beyond the hole for the cotter pin. That was a pretty easy fix however once I picked up a regular 3/4" nut and sliced it in two, the resulting halves put the castle nuts in the perfect position for the pins.




I actually started to enjoy the process of getting all the new hardware installed, determining which component needed to be jacked in which direction to line up the springs and get the bolts threaded through. Even greasing all the new fittings was satisfying to see grease flow out to the ends of the bushings. I've had a long running hate-hate relationship with my grease guns. I lined them up and tried each one in turn with nothing but frustration, gave up on them all and drove straight to the auto parts store, returned with a new gun and grease. It took a bit to get it primed but once that was done it worked great. This view shows the new leaf on the right front axle, the rear leaves are the only pieces not replaced although they are getting new bolts and bushings.




With the tires back on the new stance provided evidence of how worn the old suspension was. Then it was on to rounding up all the scrap metal scattered around from the worn out pieces. Here is a good bit of it, the broken springs, bolts and equalizers. The rest will have to be gathered with the magnet.


Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

thecfarm

You got yourself a new trailer.
Should be a lot quieter now.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Don P

Glad you caught it. Mine broke an equalizer in half there last year, snapped the axle to spring U bolts and swung an axle back to the spring mounts. A friend and young father was using it and didn't realize it had happened. Scared the heck out of me. We removed everything but the deck frame and put all new running gear under it. Check your trailers  :)

brianJ

Clutch pedal wont push in on the 2006 Mack.   What should I expect to find when I take this apart?

Crusarius

If it is like my jeep the throwout bearing got stuck on the input shaft from the clutch dust buildup when the rear main seal was leaking.

took very little to break it free, but I decided to replace the clutch while I was in there.

snowstorm

Quote from: brianJ on May 23, 2022, 07:00:03 AM
Clutch pedal wont push in on the 2006 Mack.   What should I expect to find when I take this apart?
That should have a dual disc pull clutch there is 2 disc's with a plate between them. It pulls the throw bearing. So it's nothing like a keep or light truck. That's if this is a class 8 truck. If it's a small imported Mack it may be different. There is a small cover on the clutch housing you can take off it's also where you grease the bearing

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