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A very boring question

Started by Planeiron, May 11, 2023, 12:29:33 PM

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Planeiron

Just lining up all my ducks for a new frame build in the next couple of weeks. Stuff is cut and will be collected from the mill soon if I can get transport arranged... Anyway, took out my boring machine to have a look and to fix a known issue with the base being warped but one of the handles fell off. I can't quite work out how the handle is secured back on! Rather than fiddling around with this and getting nowhere I thought I'd rely on the collective wisdom of the forum. Any ideas? When I push the handle on to the metal arm there's no resistence at all. Is there a part missing?

 


 


 

Next question is about the warped base. I would like to preserve as much original material as possible: I presume I can just replace the warped side and should be good. Before I start taking apart does anyone know if these are morticed and tenoned bases or just held by the big coach bolts? Also what machine is this?

Thanks

 

Jim_Rogers

That is a Snell boring machine. There is supposed to be a spring clip in the handle to press against the shaft on the arm of the machine. 
I don't have a picture of the spring clip/bar that goes into the handle. But maybe I can get my partner who does the restoration work to send me one.
I'll have to ask him about the base question as well.

A simple solution to the base issue is to add a piece of wood so that it sits 90° left and right as wall as front to back.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Planeiron

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on May 11, 2023, 12:37:30 PMA simple solution to the base issue is to add a piece of wood so that it sits 90° left and right as wall as front to back.
Being a bit slow on the uptake but would that be a sort or brace piece added to the base in X and Y axis? Or secure the entire base to another base to take out the twist/warp?

Ljohnsaw

When you place it on a beam and sit on it, it doesn't flatten out?

Mine was warped in the uprights. I ended up glueing up a few strips of oak and making new ones. I figured that the laminated pieces would not warp as easily.

On the handle, I think it's a thin washer that fits the end of the rod. The split collar should be a snug fit in the wood handle. You slip the split collar over the rod, place the clip or a thin washer to prevent the collar from coming off. Then slide the handle on. I'd look real close at the rod end. Does it look like it was peened over to hold a washer?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Planeiron

Quote from: ljohnsaw on May 11, 2023, 01:37:15 PM
When you place it on a beam and sit on it, it doesn't flatten out?
Unfortunately stays warped. Last time i ended up sitting more on the left side to account for the twist. Once into the stuff an inch or so i suppose it then stayed square but not ideal. Might end up remaking or partially remaking the base.

Planeiron

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on May 11, 2023, 12:37:30 PM
That is a Snell boring machine. There is supposed to be a spring clip in the handle to press against the shaft on the arm of the machine.
That gave me an idea to try to put on a circlip (e-clip, spring clip and various other names). Had a box of these and one fitted on the end. Just wide enough to prevent the metal sleeve from coming off the arm. Metal sleeve has just enough friction on the wood to hold the handle so problem seems fixed. Thanks for the inspiration...
Now back to the twisted base.

 

 

 

Don P

Hot glue thin shims to the bottom to get it to sit square to the work.

Planeiron

Quote from: Don P on May 11, 2023, 03:30:45 PM
Hot glue thin shims to the bottom to get it to sit square to the work.
I might give that a go. Would help avoid replacing the old material.

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