Board and Batton suggestions

[brendonv]

Any tips on installing green board and batton siding?  Going to use 1x8 spruce.  With 1x2 or 1x3 strips.

Nailing/ screwing techniques?  How far off edge?

It's going to be installed on a concrete building onto strips.  Tar paper?

What way should the "bark" face for cupping?  Hump out, or hump in?

[Jim_Rogers]

There has been lots of post here about this subject.
One that comes to mind for me is this one:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,54157.0.html

You should do a search on board and batten and see what you find.

Hope this helps.

Jim Rogers

[brendonv]

You were right.  There are just as many carpenters installing b&b as there are opinions on ways to do it!

[shinnlinger]

I nailed one edge of 1x10 white pine and center nailed 1x4 battens between the boards a few years back and it looks fine today

[laffs]

I used galvinized ring shank nails 2 3/8 from my paslode on my barn pine and hemlock , looks good so far. On the porch on my house i used hemlock same nails and will be replacing the boards in the future because of curl , I used waffer board under the B&B on the porch was the only differance. Under the 8' over hang on the porch I used 14" pine with 1 1/2 sheetrock screws and had no problems. I havent used spruce boards before so i'm no help there

[losttheplot]

1x8 Douglas-fir with 1x2.5 batons.
The boards had lots of time to dry and the 1x8's that cupped got cut into 2.5 inch batons.



The boards are center screwed with 3 inch deck screws.
The batons are also center screwed with 3 inch deck screws.



The siding is on 1x4" DF horizontal strapping every 2' oc , nailed to the studs (16" oc) with 3" spiral shank galvanized nails.

The screw heads show when the siding is center screwed.
I try to angle the screws pointing up.

[samandothers]

Seems I had read that if the lumber is green to center nail so it would not split when it dries.  although I would think edge nailing one edge would allow it to shrink and not split either.Then the batton would hold the other edge from cupping out but allow it to move and not split.

[sprucebunny]

I used 2 3/8 stainless ring nails on my house siding( 12" shiplap) and after 10 years many are sticking out 1/8-1/4".
I've had to go around and replace them with screws. Same with my pressure treated deck; the nails came back up which makes it very hard to shovel.
I won't use anything but screws, now.

[Al_Smith]

Reasonabley priced drill drive screws for dry wall ,decking or any other use are the greatest  thing to come along since sliced bread or beer in a can IMO .

Threaded fasteners have taken a quantum leap in the last 20 years for certain . ;D

[beenthere]

Get coated screws for decks as regular drywall will rust and streak down the siding.

[Raider Bill]

Get coated screws for decks as regular drywall will rust and streak down the siding.

$9.00 a lb for coated deck screws at the blue box store. When did they get so expensive?

[Al_Smith]

You'll break a drywall screw off trying to screw down a deck more times than not. Get the coated ones with a Torx head.

I forget what they actually call them but they have a special drill point. Fact I must have drove 4-500 of them in the floor of a house addition two years ago. Worth the money whatever they cost. The floor doesn't squeak, moan and groan.

The selection on those things are almost unlimited. From drywall, decking, cement board, flange head stainless for roof clips on standing seam roof and probably any other thing under the sun.

[Brucer]

Around here they're called "deck screws" ;D.

When a thin green board is allowed to dry with no restraints to keep it from moving, the growth rings will "try" to straighten out. In other words, the board will cup toward the bark side. When a green board is center nailed to a wall, the outer surface will dry more quickly causing the edges to cup away from the wall.

My inclination is to put the bark side in so that the two different cupping actions will counteract each other.

One contractor in these parts nails the boards along one edge only. He center-nails the battens and these hold down the other edge of the board. This way the boards can shrink and expand as the seasonal humidity changes.

I sell what the customer asks for. Most boards are 6" & 8". Battens vary from 1-3/4 inches to 4 inches. One major developer nailed 4" battens to the walls and fastened variable width boards on top (4", 6", & 8") with about 2" of batten showing.

[Jim_Rogers]

One major developer nailed 4" battens to the walls and fastened variable width boards on top (4", 6", & 8") with about 2" of batten showing.

That could be called "reverse" board and batten....

[Al_Smith]

Around here they're called "deck screws" ;D.

Well yeah but there's a specific name given to the type of point of which I can't remember. So I just trotted out to the garage to investigate. All I found was the nomenclature "high performance exterior screws". That helps a bunch . :

None the less in my collection of from 1 1/4" up to 3 inch the small ones took t-20 torx drivers and the large t-25. They probably make them longer. The type I have is "Rustolium" covered.