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Tools for Timber Framing List

Started by Jim_Rogers, April 05, 2004, 10:06:17 AM

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shinnlinger

Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

shinnlinger

Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

StorminN

Hey Dave!

Good to see you on here, long time no see! This is my first time in the timberframe forum, I spend all my time in the sawmill forum... but I'm up in Vancouver, BC for a couple of days and went to Lee Valley today, so I'm thinking about chisels and bits for timber framing... I picked up an old (1840's?) 2" socket chisel, and a 1" auger, starting my tool bag... I figured I'd take a look over here and see what people are using... and who do I run into?? Ha!

Great little rig for your chainsaw, typical Shinnlinger engenuity...

Good on ya... I agree about the pics being hard to figure out... I got spanked on that a little while back... now I just need to remember 450 pixels wide and 35kb max...

Talk to you soon, and have a good Christmas, I miss spending it with you guys...

-Norm.
Happiness... is a sharp saw.

shinnlinger

Norm,

You turned me onto this site!  Don't kill yourself on the tools.  I haven't completely digested this thread and the"Big Al" seems to be a neat rig, but I have been happy with my good ol framing square when production isn't the end all be all.  It is handy to note that one side of the square is 2 inches wide and the other is 11/2.  I figured that one out about halfway through my first frame.  Just line up one side of a 2 inch mortise and the other side is lined up too if you know what I mean...

I would say a nice long 1-1/2 framing chisel is sufficient as a 2 incher gets awful hard to drive after a few hours of mortising.  I really only use that one chisel, on a hot day I might swap down to a 1 incher to give myself a blow, but if I could only have one chisel a 1-1/2 incher would work for me.   On my next big timber frame I probably will throw down for a mortiser.  These things must pay for themselves pretty dang quick.  They are sacrilege around here as they are considered cheating, which I find odd.  If you are using a hole hawg, a circular saw and a chainsaw (Not to mention a tractor w/forks and a crane) what difference does it make if you are using a mortiser?  Most folks just want big beams and joints to look at and don't much care how they got there.

Another tool I like and I don't think is mentioned here is a Garland leather faced mallet.  They are designed for sheet metal work so they wont tear up your nice old world chisel, but they have enough weight to really give it the thunder if you are in a knot or hardwood.   Mine is a #3 split head which is a little heavy for mere mortals but the #3 pressed head is probably just right for most folks.

I only used a 1and 2 inch auger(9inchers) and a 2 inch forstner with the spur tip with the hole hawg, a 7-1/4 and an 8-1/4 circular saw, and the jems above on my last frame.  Plan your joints to what you have handy and make a go of it.  Some farmer hacked out most of the frames around here over 200 years ago with not much more than an axe!

Shinnlinger
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Brad_bb

Great thread, Jim!
For new chisels, Barr Chisels are nice.  I don't own but got a chance to use someone else's.  I have antiques now, but I wouldn't hesitate to get the Barr ones.  Just google Barr tools.  As a matter of fact, I just saw Barr featured on "Cool Tools" on the DIY channel last night showing how they make them.  They are a smaller outfit from out west(Idaho or Utah I think).  All are hand made(using equipment).
   I bought a Steve Chappell designed mallet.  I like it alot.  Thick handle to reduce fatigue, nice design from south American hardwood.  Check out his mallets at Foxmaple.com
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

moonhill

A quote from Norm...... Some farmer hacked out most of the frames around here over 200 years ago with not much more than an axe!     Jim you have no axe listed in your list?  Is there a reason for that?  It is the most used tool in my box, in that it removes more wood than any other tool.   I don't know if Barr makes any axes, I asked if he did a few years back and he said he would if I sent him an example or drawings.  I made due with what I had.  May entertain the idea again some time. 

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

Jim_Rogers

Tim:
I just forgot to add the axe.....
You're right it should be on the list.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

devonoak

Wow
Thats very thorough! We do a lot of scribe rule stuff with curved timbers in the uk
have a look at www.devonoak.co.uk to see more. All the best, Tom

moonhill

A couple more tool I didn't see on Jim's list that I saw under Tom's link:  A very sturdy green timber cart and the crane on the Unimog.   Nice work, Tom.

Tim

This is a test, please stand by...

Rig

Very nice explanations, Jim.

I use a lot of long and bowed timbers, for which the Big Al would not work. But I'm getting one for my other 75% that it will work with. I think my helpers would benefit from using one.

Just for fun, I'll present a list of traveling tools that I can pack up in a bag and take with me to do any timber framing job. I will add to and edit Jim's list down to what I consider the essential travel kit:

Fits into one Tool bag or box, 26" long and about 12"x17" in cross-section.


Layout tools

Calculator (Construction Master)
Chalk line
Combination square
Framing square
Lumber crayons
Carpenter pencils
Giant erasers
Plumb bob
Tape measure (25 ft.)
Utility knife

Hand tools
Leatherman Wave
Timberframing mortise chisels (2", 1.5", and 1")
Slicks (2" and 1")
Wooden or leather head mallet (2-3 lb.)
Japanese (Tajima) rapid pull saw w/crosscut 300 & rip blades
Block plane (sharp)
Levels (torpedo, 24".)
Outside dimension calipers
Sharpening stones (oil for winter, water for summer)
   
Power tools
Heavy duty cordless drill w/1/2" chuck
1" auger bit, 1" spade bit, 2" Forstner bit
Circular saw, direct drive (7 1/4", about 10 amp)
Extra saw blade, thin kerf carbide.
Extension cord (#12, 25' minimum)

Personal Safety Equipment
Ear plugs
Job-site drinking bottle
Nail apron, or leather apron with pockets
Safety glasses & Sunglasses
Work gloves

All the other things you really need are common on any job site. Besides the bag above, I will normally travel with my chain mortiser, but I can do without it.




balsabones

Hello to all from SC USA.
I have been corresponding with Jim VIA email and I cant begin to tell you all what a help he has been! I am fixing to start a 12' X 16' cabin, for my cousin to stay in when he comes to hunt my property. Another project I am doing first is an addition on my double wide mobile home. As I explained to Jim, if you can picture it, half a barn, cut down the center, minus one half. The other half is stick built, with a walk onto timber framed sun room. I am going to attempt to design it on DIETRICHS 2D cad program. Once I get it drawn and designed I will attempt to post it for criticism or suggestions (both are welcome). I have my own 20 acres of 15 yr old lobblolly pines, and chainsaw sawmill (Logasol attachment with stadium bench seat guide rail). My own version of the M7. I am using a Husky 395 XP W/24" bar.
I look forward to posting and learning from you all
Moving ahead so life don't pass me by

spenser

I am a new member and am interested in buying some basic tools for personal use. Can I use this forum if I want to purchase something from Jim ?

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: spenser on September 27, 2010, 10:14:38 PM
I am a new member and am interested in buying some basic tools for personal use. Can I use this forum if I want to purchase something from Jim ?

Spenser:
Go to the "for sale" section and find the list of tools we have for sale. Also, my gallery has lots of pictures of the tools.
Please email me via the regular email system for more tool buying info.
Thanks.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Ozarkian

Thanks for the post Jim, you are mighty resourceful!!  This will help me a lot as a guide for my building. 

Do you have a list of timber species and their value in timber framing?

I want to use ERC, but I know it is not the best for most structural stability.  I would like to see how it  rates versus other species. 

Thanks again!
13h.p. EZ Boardwalk JR.

Jim_Rogers

Ozarkian:
On the left side of the screen is a red tool box. Click on that and select, DonP's calculators.
Here is a direct link for that list: https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/CalculatorIndex.htm

In the beam calculator is a list of the most common woods and their values. But you have to click on the list to find it. Here is another direct link: https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/Fblist.htm

Try that first and see if that helps you.

If you go to the plan section look at the frame evaluation I did for dunkudog
here is a link: https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50714.0.html

and read how it's done this may help you to understand how to figure out your loads and sizes.

Jim Rogers

PS. start a new thread with questions.
Keep reading and keep asking questions.....
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Brad_bb

Speaking of axes, Moonhill and I just had this conversation...I've been keeping my eye out for a certain axe for timberframing.  I used one Collin Beggs had that I really liked.  It's smaller than a felling axe, but larger than a hatchet.  Moonhill and I figured about 27-29 inches long overall, about a 2.25 lb head, with true fawns foot.  We also talked about the beard and jaw, and basically it has to have some curve to it and not be straight across.  I don't usually see many around where I live, but I'm keeping my eye out for what we named the "moma bear" axe.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

laffs

is it what they call a pole axe or trappers axe
timber harvester,tinberjack230,34hp kubota,job ace excavator carpenter tools up the yingyang,

robertbeard82

I am looking for a chain mortiser, does anyone have one they would be willing to sell?

Jim_Rogers

If they had one to sell it would be listed in the "for sale" section. Not here.

And if you want to buy one you should list your request in "wanted".... not here.

Your new post here is not in the right place.

But I think I'll leave it so that others will understand how find one and where to look.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Solomon

I have three very old Skill  Worm Drive Saws.  The Blades measure 11 and 5/8 and the saws and blades are dimond arbors.   Two of them are in good condition in the steel carry cases they came in from the manufacturer.  One has the book with it.
Are theese saws useful for Timber Framing ?  I know they were used in the Hold of ships to cut caulking dunnage.   Usually 8x8 and larger Oak.   Anybody know anything about them?
They look like you could cut your leg of if you wern't paying attention and holding on tight.
I think theese worm drive saws have a lot of torc.  They weigh about 35 or 40 pounds a piece.
Time and Money,  If you have the one, you rarely have the other.

The Path to Salvation is narrow, and the path to damnnation is wide.

WOOD100

Thank you very much for all the information, it helped me a lot. What do you think about locust tree for framing? I have at the disposal a lot of locust trees, unfortunately I can't tell the difference between Honey locust and Black locust. I also need a new circular saw, I found some positive reviews about Makita, see here for example. What do you think about circular saws with left mounted blade? It should improve the visibility.

Jim_Rogers

You could/should start a new thread for each new subject.
Locust is good for pegs, I haven't framed with it.
All saws have their benefits and disadvantages.
You'll need to pick one or two for yourself.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

TimFromNB

Question for Jim Rogers:

Have you been able to test the new layout tool from TFHQ?

Would you recommend it over the original from TFG considering the increased cost?

Thanks,
Tim


Dave Shepard

Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Jim_Rogers

I have used it many times. I love it. Of course it is a bit different then the original Big Al but once you get going with it you'll wonder why they didn't put the rules on the original Big Al in the first place.

Due to all the rules all over every slot and all edges it costs more. But it is worth it in my opinion.



  



  



 



 

It's a bit larger so it's a bit heavier.

If you have any specific questions please ask.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

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