Woods protection for JD 990

[mjeselskis]

I just picked up a 2002 JD 990 to use with the sawmill and yarding out firewood and sawlogs with a farmi winch. I've seen some tractors at logging shows that have some extra protection for woods use. I'm thinking something for a decent roof, and sweepers from the roof to the grill guard, maybe a rear window guard.

My question is... do they make a kit for this type of thing or do  I need to make my own?

[beenthere]

mj
Have you checked with Deere? I believe they do make 'armor' for the belly of the 990, but don't know part no's.

[mjeselskis]

mj
Have you checked with Deere? I believe they do make 'armor' for the belly of the 990, but don't know part no's.

I've seen belly pans and may make my own, but I was looking for something for overhead protection, something from the grill guard to the roof and a rear window screen

[Piston]

I've been playing with fire with no belly pan or skid plate type protection.  I did get burned once when I got a limb jammed up underneath the tractor, bending the HST linkage. 

This thread is a good reminder that I really need to do something about the lack of protection under my tractor.

[thecfarm]

I worked in the woods since '93 with my tractor,just on my land,cutting logs to sell.Stopped doing that about '97. Now it's just my own firewood.I cut my brush up small 2-3 feet long as much as I can and try not to run right down the middle of it. I don't think I ever had any limb damage. I've had a few small trees come up onto the fenders because I got in a hard spot and backed up to far. I'm the type that can broke just about anything too.

[ga jones]

deere makes forestry packages for there tractors.

[Okrafarmer]

My friends in Pennsylvania had a Same Leopard 85 4wd, a decent farm tractor, which I baled round bales with and used for other farm work one summer. They took it in the woods one occasion, and got a stump under it, such that it jammed the clutch linkage, so the clutch was jammed disengaged, and they couldn't move the tractor under its own power. I think they had to cut the stump out from under it.

[thecfarm]

maybe next time they will cut thier stumps lower or not try to straddle a stump. I try to be careful with my tractor in the woods. I'm not trying to get a load out a day.  :  Trying to see how fast you can go can get a person in trouble with a tractor in the woods. I have 150 feet of cable and if I need it all so I don't get into a mess,I use it all. I'm very fussy with brush in my trails. I will get off the tractor to keep them clean.

[Okrafarmer]

Well, my friends were/are not real experienced in the woods. They just pull a few trees out every year for firewood. If they did it continually, they'd get more experienced. The man who owned the tractor died last year, from a heart attack, at age 57. I was very sad to hear about it. I haven't been in close contact with them for a while, nice folks, though, up in the north-east corner of PA.

[colincb183]

We snapped a shifting linkage when a limb got jammed between the rear tire and transmission on a JD 4610,  still don't have any undercarriage protection, i would highly suggest it.

[mjeselskis]

Sounds like the main focus should be the undercarriage. I'll check out the forestry packages from John Deere

[Ed_K]

I got a branch in the 4x4 linkage and moved the shift skate inside to the wrong side of the gear.Protection is a must have.

[bill m]

I use my NH in the woods every day full time logging not just firewood. These pictures show the roof,rear screen and undercarriage protection I made.

  

  

  

  

 
I have other pictures in my gallery.

[barbender]

I have a friend that had an inspection plate on his JD548 skidder get tore off on a rock or something, then a stick got through and jammed a linkage. He got underneath (without shutting the machine off) and tried to pull the stick out, it pulled the linkage and put the machine in gear, it then ran right over him. He sustained massive injuries and came as close to dying as you can. My point is that the more of these "situations" you have, the better your chances are of getting hurt. Do what you can to your machines to prevent as many as possible. I like Bill's set up.

[Okrafarmer]

We logged with a 1948 John Deere B for nearly 30 years. There's nothing much to catch on the underside of it, and the rear axles will clear around 24". Bang for the buck, if I ever log again on a small scale, I'll be looking for a JD A or 60, since they are a little bigger and more powerful, and the 60 has live hydraulics.  Having said that, most people would do best with a four-wheel-drive ROPS tractor.

[thecfarm]

bill m sure does know how to log with a tractor.

[Piston]

Bill,
What thickness is that skidplate you have, and how did you connect it?  That is a slick setup!  I was out your way 2 weeks ago and wanted to give you a call to see if I could check out your setup, but I had 14hrs of driving to do that day and just couldn't make time....maybe one of these days  ;D

[bill m]

My skid plate is 3/16 and is mounted to the sub frame for the loader.

[Maine372]

the underside of the 990 is pretty clean as it is. i logged full time with that same machine with no extra gaurding on the bottom. addington equipment in NH does alot of custom gaurding on tractors. even if you dont by from them you might get some ideas that you can use to build your own cage.

valve stem protectors are a must as well

[mjeselskis]

the underside of the 990 is pretty clean as it is. i logged full time with that same machine with no extra gaurding on the bottom. addington equipment in NH does alot of custom gaurding on tractors. even if you dont by from them you might get some ideas that you can use to build your own cage.

valve stem protectors are a must as well

The bottom side is pretty clean, but i figured a few skid plates wouldnt hurt. I am more concerned about topside protection (for myself) and protecting the other soft points.

What are the options for valve stem protection? I hadn't considered those.

[thecfarm]

Need to weld something around the valve stem. I just used a piece of ¼" flat stock a little higher than the stem. Leave room to work on the stem too.On one I used a piece of 3 or 4 inch pipe with threads on it and put a cap on it too. My NH came with the protectors on the front tires but none on the rear,which I feel was kinda odd. Need them on back more,those are the expensive tubes. I suppose you have tubes in your tires?Seem like if you weld with air in the tire it will explode?? Seem like I heard about that on here?

[mjeselskis]

Need to weld something around the valve stem. I just used a piece of ¼" flat stock a little higher than the stem. Leave room to work on the stem too.On one I used a piece of 3 or 4 inch pipe with threads on it and put a cap on it too. My NH came with the protectors on the front tires but none on the rear,which I feel was kinda odd. Need them on back more,those are the expensive tubes. I suppose you have tubes in your tires?Seem like if you weld with air in the tire it will explode?? Seem like I heard about that on here?

All the tires are tubeless right now, but I actually need to have the rears broken down to remove the calcium since it is weeping through the bead and rusting the rim. I'll probably have tubes put back in at that time. I don't think I want to weld to the rim so I may pass on the guards for now. I'll just have to be careful where I'm going

[thecfarm]

You are going to want tubes in those tires for the woods. I have tubes in all my tires. Front and back and my rear are loaded with calium. I even loaded the ones on the 30hp and we only use that to mow with and to blow snow.When the tires are off I would weld something around the stems. It does not do anything bad to the rims. just re paint that area. I also hope you have 2 brake pedals and know how to use them.

[mjeselskis]

You are going to want tubes in those tires for the woods. I have tubes in all my tires. Front and back and my rear are loaded with calium. I even loaded the ones on the 30hp and we only use that to mow with and to blow snow.When the tires are off I would weld something around the stems. It does not do anything bad to the rims. just re paint that area. I also hope you have 2 brake pedals and know how to use them.

I do have 2 pedals, and definitely know how to use them. Very handy feature. I do plan on putting tubes in, but what makes you so strongly recommend them. I guess I could weld to the rim, but I spent so long looking for a good tractor (cosmetic and functional) that I hate to mess up anything right away. I don't think I'll end up breaking them down myself, I dont think I have a good way to handle the calcium. So to weld on the rim, I'd have to make a trip to the shop to clean them out and break them down, then another one to have them remounted once I get the protection on. Something to consider at least.

[thecfarm]

My rims are kinda banged up from rocks and I even had a small thin piece of wood sticking out between by rim and tire. If there was not a tube in it.I probably would of had a flat. You will be squatting the tires down with a load and running over a rock or a stump makes it that must worse.I have a local tire place,New Sharon,about ½ hour away that comes right to my house. Last one I had done was about $180. Two guys was here about an hour. That was new tube,pump the calium out,clean everything,put calcium back in and bending back some bad places on the rim and grinding it down too. I don't work on the rear ones. the front ones I take to the guy that does my car tires.I feel if you are really going to work your tractor in the woods,tubes all the way around. Also how many plys are your tires? Also forget the nice looking tractor part too.  ;D  I brought a real nice looking tractor. I did more damage to that poor thing in one year,than the other guy did in 8,by digging rocks and working it in the woods. But I use mine ALOT. I put about 600 hours on it in one year.I've been around loaded tires on 3 tractors and have never heard of not running a tube with calium.

[mjeselskis]

My rims are kinda banged up from rocks and I even had a small thin piece of wood sticking out between by rim and tire. If there was not a tube in it.I probably would of had a flat. You will be squatting the tires down with a load and running over a rock or a stump makes it that must worse.I have a local tire place,New Sharon,about ½ hour away that comes right to my house. Last one I had done was about $180. Two guys was here about an hour. That was new tube,pump the calium out,clean everything,put calcium back in and bending back some bad places on the rim and grinding it down too. I don't work on the rear ones. the front ones I take to the guy that does my car tires.I feel if you are really going to work your tractor in the woods,tubes all the way around. Also how many plys are your tires? Also forget the nice looking tractor part too.  ;D  I brought a real nice looking tractor. I did more damage to that poor thing in one year,than the other guy did in 8,by digging rocks and working it in the woods. But I use mine ALOT. I put about 600 hours on it in one year.I've been around loaded tires on 3 tractors and have never heard of not running a tube with calium.

Tires are 8 ply 17.5 - 24 R4 tires. Pretty heavy when loaded. Tractor only has 480 hours on it and is in really good shape right now. Tires are loaded with calcium now, but due to the fact that there are no tubes, the calcium is starting to eat the rim. That's why I want to get tubes. That price isnt too bad for all the work involved, I may have to check into that. I'm in Canton so New Sharon isnt too far away. What was the name of the place you used?

Here's a pic of the tractor. My father standing next to it.

[Okrafarmer]

I do not recommend using tube tires. If you puncture them, you have to dismount them to fix the tube. Use radials without tubes. If you have a puncture, just plug it with a tire plug. If you tear your tire open, you can then use tube as a last resort.

Use antifreeze in your tires, not calcium. Calcium is highly corrosive. Better yet, don't use water at all.

[thecfarm]

Pitcher Perfect Tire,  Does not look like much of a place,but had them here twice so far and happy each time. No fancy trucks from these guys,but they do good work.I only had to wait one day.They leave the tire right on the tractor.The rim is not removed either.Can come over to see what I do,if you want.Nice looking tractor,so was mine.  :(
I have never punctured a tire,had a few tubes rot out yes. Calcium weighs more than anti freeze,that's why it is used and cheaper. Calcium is non toxic too. Would have to use the RV stuff.

[Okrafarmer]

Calcium may be cheaper, but calcium + rusted rims is not cheaper.

[thecfarm]

Starting to sound like someone else on the forum.  : I have a 1954 ford that has calcium in the rims since the day my Father brought it new and has never had a rim rusted out or trouble with area around the valve stem. The trouble you have seen is people will have tire trouble and won't get it fixed. If it not leaking and has tube,no contact with calium on metal,no rust. Maybe Fords rims are better.  :D

[beenthere]

I use windshield washer fluid. Cheap and weighs almost as much as water per gallon. Slightly less than calcium and a lot easier to remove and add back without hiring a truck to stop by for a job.

The same FEL #430 that I have on my Deere 4300.
Do you have the ROPS folded? Mine is fixed and I've thought about some headache bars (think there is a better name for them) to protect the hood and over my head while in the woods. Don't like catching limbs/branches on the ROPS that then whap the back of my head. Like to have them slide up and over the ROPS.

[Okrafarmer]

I've heard them called "limb raisers" or "limb risers" but I'm not sure if that is the official term. 


I'll have to remember the windshield washer fluid idea. But how do you put it in by yourself?

[thecfarm]

I don't even know where all the tires irons are now. I don't have the stuff to work on a tire of a 40 hp tractor. Meaning I'm not 20 anymore.  ;D  My days of pounding on a tire is long gone. Much easier to watch them guys do it. Than pay the bill.

[beenthere]

Myself?
I laid the tire down and broke the topside bead, then poured in the fluid. Raised the tire with some blocking while still flat on the ground and added air.

[snowstorm]

Need to weld something around the valve stem. I just used a piece of ¼" flat stock a little higher than the stem. Leave room to work on the stem too.On one I used a piece of 3 or 4 inch pipe with threads on it and put a cap on it too. My NH came with the protectors on the front tires but none on the rear,which I feel was kinda odd. Need them on back more,those are the expensive tubes. I suppose you have tubes in your tires?Seem like if you weld with air in the tire it will explode?? Seem like I heard about that on here?

be very careful when it comes to welding on a wheel with the tire on. watched a vid from bridgestone on welding wheels. they had a temp and air press guadge setup they welded on the wheel . the temp and press went up a lot then it exploded.

[Maine372]

delektos (before they were hammond) did the valve stem protectors on the 990 i ran before they delivered it. they just used threaded pipe and pipe caps. they are very rugged and it just takes a pipe wrench to break them loose when needed.

those r4s are nice for the extra plys but the lugs arent as deep as an r1. i would highly recommend some agressive tire chains. if you set the rear tires as wide as they go there is just enough room for the chains to clear the fenders.

where did you find an 02 with so few hours? the 04 i ran is pushing 1000 now.

[thecfarm]

Maine372 is right,I had a tractor with the r1s and have one now with those r4s. A BIG difference. I don't like the r4s at all.But to change them to the good ones with some traction,when they do wear out,I might have to buy new rims??? But like mjeselskis,buy used that's what it came with. About the only thing that I like about those r4s,is for packing the soil. I have a place that I am bringing some dirt into. Those tires will pack it down good. Look at billm tires. If those r4s were good tires he would be running them.

[mjeselskis]

I use windshield washer fluid. Cheap and weighs almost as much as water per gallon. Slightly less than calcium and a lot easier to remove and add back without hiring a truck to stop by for a job.

The same FEL #430 that I have on my Deere 4300.
Do you have the ROPS folded? Mine is fixed and I've thought about some headache bars (think there is a better name for them) to protect the hood and over my head while in the woods. Don't like catching limbs/branches on the ROPS that then whap the back of my head. Like to have them slide up and over the ROPS.

ROPS is permanently "folded"... The previous owner was an older gentleman that didnt like the way the ROPS looked so he cut it off level with the sheetmetal behind the seat. One of my first projects is to correct that.

As you mentioned some limb risers or headache bars would be nice to make the limbs sweep up over the hood and ROPS to keep them out of my face.

[mjeselskis]

delektos (before they were hammond) did the valve stem protectors on the 990 i ran before they delivered it. they just used threaded pipe and pipe caps. they are very rugged and it just takes a pipe wrench to break them loose when needed.

those r4s are nice for the extra plys but the lugs arent as deep as an r1. i would highly recommend some agressive tire chains. if you set the rear tires as wide as they go there is just enough room for the chains to clear the fenders.

where did you find an 02 with so few hours? the 04 i ran is pushing 1000 now.

The tractor came from Indiana. It was from a homeowner that lived in a development that used it to till his garden and play around the yard. I searched near and far for quite  a while before I found one I liked. Now that I have it, I dont think I could ever go without a tractor again.

I don't have alot of mud so I think the R4's will do what I need in the summer, and I will probably pick up a set of chains for the winter. I do like the R4's for working in the field, they don't tear it up like the R4's I have used in the past.

[thecfarm]

Looks like a new building you have your tractor in? I like to see a tractor under cover.

[mjeselskis]

Looks like a new building you have your tractor in? I like to see a tractor under cover.

The garage is about 5-6 years old. We bought the buildings and land as a package, but the garage is definitely my favorite part... :D It is great to be able to keep everything inside. I was just praying for a woodlot to build on, but the answer I got was 10x better than what I had in mind.

[bill m]

R4 tires are pretty much useless in snow. If you are going to try to do much work in the winter you will need chains. Labonville in NH has good chains made by Trygg. For ballast in the tires I have Rim Guard.

[mjeselskis]

R4 tires are pretty much useless in snow. If you are going to try to do much work in the winter you will need chains. Labonville in NH has good chains made by Trygg. For ballast in the tires I have Rim Guard.

I'll have to check out the chains at Labonville. There is a location about 30 minutes from me.

[g_man]

Need to weld something around the valve stem. I just used a piece of ¼" flat stock a little higher than the stem. Leave room to work on the stem too.On one I used a piece of 3 or 4 inch pipe with threads on it and put a cap on it too. My NH came with the protectors on the front tires but none on the rear,which I feel was kinda odd. Need them on back more,those are the expensive tubes. I suppose you have tubes in your tires?Seem like if you weld with air in the tire it will explode?? Seem like I heard about that on here?

All the tires are tubeless right now, but I actually need to have the rears broken down to remove the calcium since it is weeping through the bead and rusting the rim. I'll probably have tubes put back in at that time. I don't think I want to weld to the rim so I may pass on the guards for now. I'll just have to be careful where I'm going

I would recomend you rethink the your decision to leave the valve stem guards off. All that it takes to ruin your day is one stick or branch take you can't see buried in the snow. Happened to me twice in one week before I decided to put guards on.

[Ed_K]

2nd the valve guards especially if you spend $ on rim guard,which i recomend highly.

[mjeselskis]

2nd the valve guards especially if you spend $ on rim guard,which i recomend highly.

Ok, sounds like I'll want to reconsider the guards. It wouldn't be hard to weld on some pipe and thread a cap on. It's breaking down the tires, and cleaning and painting the rim after to try to make it look like it came from the factory this way.

[Piston]

Even WITH the valve stem guards I've had a stem rip out on me.  I'd also highly recommend them.  ;D

I bought a set of ladder chains for my R4's last year but never put them on because we barely got any snow.  I'm going to try them this year but if they aren't good enough I'll buy a nice set of more aggressive chains.

[Okrafarmer]

Ring chains are nice. Those were the ones that really seemed to work up in Maine. We somehow got along without them, which means I got to be something of an expert at getting unstuck.  ;D

[logman81]

I use a set of forest trac stud chains made of boron steel. They make a bid difference in snow and ice plus protect the tires better then later chains just my 2 cents.

[Okrafarmer]

My, that boron/borax stuff does get around!

[logman81]

Yes it holds up very well, I keep mine on year round.

[Ironwood]

Nice tractor, GOOD choice. I was heading in that direction and then bought a skidloader and a 955 JD. Too many varied projects around here to try to do it all with one machine...... I really LIKED the 990's I was fortunate to grab a very clean low hour 955 locally, I had several guys "come searching" for the 955 that got away from them......the one guy was the previous owners farrier, man was he %$^& that he had missed it (he owns 2 already, I said why do you need 3???). Your 990 is a good simple machine.... all the right stuff, none of the fluff.......


Ironwood

[mjeselskis]

Nice tractor, GOOD choice. I was heading in that direction and then bought a skidloader and a 955 JD. Too many varied projects around here to try to do it all with one machine...... I really LIKED the 990's I was fortunate to grab a very clean low hour 955 locally, I had several guys "come searching" for the 955 that got away from them......the one guy was the previous owners farrier, man was he %$^& that he had missed it (he owns 2 already, I said why do you need 3???). Your 990 is a good simple machine.... all the right stuff, none of the fluff.......


Ironwood

Thanks, it sounds like you have the same taste in tractors as I do. I wanted simple, reliable, and effective. All the features like hydrostatic, cruise control, computers, etc are really handy until the break. I actually had a hard time finding a newer tractor in the power range I was looking at that wasn't hydro, powershift, shuttleshift, etc. I ended up searching hard for a 990 or 1070 and finally found this one.

[Ironwood]

Yeah, I had called on a couple 990's in Texas....never called me back. The new tractors are....well silly to me, lots of sensors, relays and weak castings. The E-hydro on the new JD is TOTALLY annoying, takes a second or two to redirect, I could NOT stand it. ....and then in adverse environs, moisture, vibration, I cant see how that works in the LONG run. I think CAD (computer aided design) has really had the "bean counters" under, or to spec. engineering the machines. It is not like in the old (er) days here a factor of 2x was built into things.....like the Funk 6 cylinder or even V-8's on an 8n and the driveline and castings can take it. I hear of ALL sort of silliness out there, rear housings breaking, front spindles, on and on. Your is cast iron I beleive.....I have some buddies that work at JD dealers in service, they tell me all sorts of stories. That helped me ALOT in my choices. Even my Bobcat skidsteer is stupid simple, 763F....

Ironwood