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Useful sawmill mods

Started by Bibbyman, July 25, 2004, 08:27:09 AM

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Ljohnsaw

I like your welding table, I have a couple of those, too. ;)
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

YellowHammer

Nice!  How is it working? There's kind of a double bump that works real well to use the momentum of the head to break the board loose and and keep any stress off the return motor, and to give it a little time to pivot up where the shelf will grab it.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

SawyerTed

Wish I could try it out!  Too much rain and mud to be moving logs.

I will let you know as soon as I try it.  
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

YellowHammer

It would really help things out if you had even small, 5 foot long smooth outfeed table.  A portable one, it just has to fit behind the ramp.  Then you can push whole loads of boards onto it, drop them in stages at your pace, and saw faster than your off bearers can keep up.  
 
I had a simple home made 2'x5' oak deck with steel leg table that didn't even hook to the mill.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

doc henderson

the rounded weld bead will break wind (sorry Howard) and reduce drag, saving countless grams of fuel per year. :)
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

SawyerTed

I have an odd piece of heavy gage standing seam roofing I've been eyeing as a table surface.  Thought I might attach it to a piece of plywood with the standing seams turned down.  

Maybe some sort of bracket to attach it to the Woodmizer wedge shaped table.  
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Sod saw

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I just used a nylon ratchet strap to attach my outfeed table legs to my outfeed ramp (saw) legs.  

Not fancy but cheap and easy to remove and adjust as things shift under heavy moving loads.


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LT 40 hyd.          Solar Kiln.          Misc necessary toys.
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It's extremely easy to make things complicated, but very difficult to keep things simple.
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Zgin

Thanks for the ideas found on the forum. I am now somewhat mobile and have a few new tools. Repurposed an old trailer I had built for a small camper. Added a winch operated turning arm and log clamp.  The 4 legs in the middle and extra width give the mill a solid stance. Nextwill be a loading bed or arms on the tank side. 
 

 

TimW

Quote from: doc henderson on August 29, 2023, 03:59:10 PM
 will break wind (sorry Howard) and reduce drag, saving countless grams of fuel per year. :)
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide 35hp Yanmar Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

DDW_OR

Quote from: doc henderson on August 29, 2023, 03:59:10 PM
the rounded weld bead will break wind (sorry Howard) and reduce drag, saving countless grams of fuel per year. :)
As the fuel prices keep going up, it may be worth it
:D :D >:( 8)
"let the machines do the work"

CCCLLC

Looking good ZGIN. You'll find your hard work at improving the mill will be worth it.

DanMc

Somewhere in this 94-pages of mods, is there a discussion of adding a cable drag-chain like the LT70 has, so the hydraulics can have power continuously?  I have an LT35 and find it irritating that the hydraulics only work when the head is back by the hitch.

Is there such a thread elsewhere on FF?  
LT35HDG25
JD 4600, JD2210, JD332 tractors.
28 acres of trees, Still have all 10 fingers.
Jesus is Lord.

SawyerTed

For the LT35, wiring a second battery to the hydraulics is the simplest method.

Maintaining the charge on the second battery is a consideration because it only charges when the head is on the copper strip. If operating portable the second battery either has to be mounted or disconnected, moved and reconnected.
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Southside

Search for "Hydraulics Anywhere" mod 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Klicker

I must be one of the few that is glad hydraulics only work on the strip. When doing mobile milling and  having customers try to use hydraulics while I was sawing relay  made me cranky. 
2006 LT 40 HD

Magicman

I have never had anyone to touch my hydraulic controls.

I have no issue with the hydraulic strip setup but of course I do not use the board dragback option.  For the odd times that I may need to use the hydraulics when I am off of the strip, I use a battery jump box.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

caveman

One of our best mods was adding an extra battery to run the hydraulics from anywhere.  We do not mobile saw but even if we did, we would have modified to have hydraulics working all of the time.  

Sometimes, lowering the backstops and moving the clamp a little will allow a big log to fit between the guides.  Also, at the end of the last cut on a cant, the clamp can be dropped, and the toe rollers raised so that the bottom boards can easily be rolled back.

When the engine is warming up prior to use or any other time it is running and we are not sawing, we try to keep the carriage on the strip in order to charge the auxiliary battery.  Seldom do we have to add a supplemental charge to it.  
Caveman

WV Sawmiller

Quote from: Klicker on September 27, 2023, 09:59:45 PM
I must be one of the few that is glad hydraulics only work on the strip. When doing mobile milling and  having customers try to use hydraulics while I was sawing relay  made me cranky.
I am with MM on this one. Nobody touches my hydraulics but me. I'd consider that a major safety hazard.

  I also don't allow anyone working behind me when I'm sawing as they are a distraction and they slow me down having to keep looking to be sure they are out of my way. My off-bearers unload from the rear end or the loader side of the mill so I can see them all the time.

Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

barbender

Yeah if anyone touched my hydraulic controls they'd get a very stern talking to.
Too many irons in the fire

DDW_OR

i only saw for myself with a Timberking 2000 full direct hydraulic. just one battery
sounds like there needs to be a safety speech before sawing begins.
one part will be if anyone touches the controls, with out permission, there will be an instant $100 penalty.

i do not use the drag back. i leave the boards on top of the cant i am sawing
"let the machines do the work"

D6c

Quote from: DanMc on September 27, 2023, 02:15:50 PM
Somewhere in this 94-pages of mods, is there a discussion of adding a cable drag-chain like the LT70 has, so the hydraulics can have power continuously?  I have an LT35 and find it irritating that the hydraulics only work when the head is back by the hitch.

Is there such a thread elsewhere on FF?  
I haven't done it yet but I have been planning on just adding a second contact strip to the end of the existing one to extend it further down the mill bed.
Would be handy once in a while if you break a blade and need to use the hydraulics to untangle the mess.

D6c

I been having several people bring me short logs to saw lately, and since they're kind of a pain to clamp, I built a couple of c-shaped log dogs that slip over the bed rails and rest against the side stops.  Just got them done so haven't tried them yet but it looks like it's going to work.
Doesn't take any tool to install/remove so after I saw down and get a relatively square edge on the log I can pull them off and roll the log over.
Most of the time on short logs I'm just cutting straight through and not making edged lumber.



 



 

LeeB

I like it. Let us know how well they work.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

CCCLLC

Certainly  like those dogs. Didn't  see a patent # yet.

D6c

Quote from: LeeB on October 01, 2023, 07:16:19 PM
I like it. Let us know how well they work.
Tried the log dogs on 3 or 4 short logs and they seem to work pretty well.  Gives a good hold.  The dog point is just bolted on and can be moved to 3 positions for logs of different diameters.  Happy with them so far.  Sawing short logs is one task I kind of dreaded so hopefully these will help.

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