I didn't get a chance to cut very much wood this weekend. But, I did get to build some pallets to attach my tin to for covering up my stacks. I have been trying to get this done for awhile to get the wood covered up because we've been having a lot of rain. Hope its not to late , some has already started to mold.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/IMG_1502~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581302279)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/IMG_1504.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581302326)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/IMG_1503.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581302390)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/IMG_1503.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581302390)
Looks like the makings of one heck of a buffet line!!!
What's that green stuff? :D
Good looking pallets. I hope they work well for you.
It looks like you have enough tin and lumber to build a real drying house. ;D ;D
On the " buffet line " ,yes, I am ending up with more sizes than I originally planned. I just couldn't cut a 2x8 down to a 2x6, etc., because I wasn't going to cut them. One maybe two but not multiple. On the "plenty of lumber and tin " this is for a carport for my bride and a sawmill shed. I hope to have enough for a drying shed with the rest of the logs I have to cut up.
Not sure which one will be first. Who am I kidding, she cooks supper !! 8) 8)
EOTE I seen a picture of your shed in progress , NICE . what did you use to span 22' ?
I've been building similar covers for my stacks but have trouble with wind blowing them off. Have to weigh them down with block or old tractor tires.
My tin is screwed to the pallets. I really thought that would be enough weight to keep them in place. I will definitely know if I can get back next weekend.
That's good progress, you could use them for chicken shelters after you build your giant mill shed. :D
Quote from: trimguy on February 10, 2020, 08:51:40 PM
On the " buffet line " ,yes, I am ending up with more sizes than I originally planned. I just couldn't cut a 2x8 down to a 2x6, etc., because I wasn't going to cut them. One maybe two but not multiple. On the "plenty of lumber and tin " this is for a carport for my bride and a sawmill shed. I hope to have enough for a drying shed with the rest of the logs I have to cut up.
Not sure which one will be first. Who am I kidding, she cooks supper !! 8) 8)
EOTE I seen a picture of your shed in progress , NICE . what did you use to span 22' ?
My drying house and sawmill houses were built with 8" x 8" s. I used a half lap joint, structural screws, and plywood gusset plates with liquid nails and 2 1/4" ring shank nails. In the photo below, you can see the end beams extend over the 22' opening. Both end beams were put in place first and then the center beam was lowered into the half laps, screwed, gusset plated, and nailed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/54084/IMG_20180521_201039.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581387796)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/54084/IMG_20180602_191547.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1581387800)
If I had to do this where I had to deal with heavy snow or wind loads, I would probably make a single 8" x 8" laminated beam out of 2" x 8" s for each side.
Quote from: D6c on February 10, 2020, 08:56:48 PM
I've been building similar covers for my stacks but have trouble with wind blowing them off. Have to weigh them down with block or old tractor tires.
I think the same thing every time I see someone using covers like this. Must be an Iowa thing. Nowhere to hide from it.
Alan
Quote from: EOTE on February 10, 2020, 09:27:03 PMIn the photo below, you can see the end beams extend over the 22' opening. Both end beams were put in place first and then the center beam was lowered into the half laps, screwed, gusset plated, and nailed.
Isn't the beam strength cut in half with a joint like that in mid span?
Run a ratchet strap under tin around end of 10 boards or so at corners works great never had one come off.
Quote from: donbj on February 11, 2020, 03:45:55 PM
Quote from: EOTE on February 10, 2020, 09:27:03 PMIn the photo below, you can see the end beams extend over the 22' opening. Both end beams were put in place first and then the center beam was lowered into the half laps, screwed, gusset plated, and nailed.
Isn't the beam strength cut in half with a joint like that in mid span?
Donbj, in engineering this sawmill/drying house design, the best horizontal beams would be one continuous length but I don't have the capability at this time to create a laminated beam that is 40' in length. However, since my WM can only cut beams up to 20'6" in length, I opted for a "compromise" design which allowed me to make each horizontal beam in 3 sections. Having 2- 20' beams joined in the center would be the weakest structurally where as the 3 section beam design allows the center beam loading to transfer to the 2 outer beams and the cross braces. The calculated dead load per side totaled only 3350 lbs. which worked out to a nominal 1 psi on the beams. Adding a 10 psi live load to the beams would not come close to over stressing the joints as designed.
Keep in mind the lap joints were glued (liquid nails), screwed (8" GRK Structural screws), and gussetted (3/8" plywood with liquid nails and 2-1/4" ring shank nails) to enhance the joint strength. Gusset plates overlap the joint on both sides and are applied to both sides of the beams. I hope that answers your question.
Quote from: EOTE on February 11, 2020, 10:41:11 PM
Quote from: donbj on February 11, 2020, 03:45:55 PM
Quote from: EOTE on February 10, 2020, 09:27:03 PMIn the photo below, you can see the end beams extend over the 22' opening. Both end beams were put in place first and then the center beam was lowered into the half laps, screwed, gusset plated, and nailed.
Isn't the beam strength cut in half with a joint like that in mid span?
Donbj, in engineering this sawmill/drying house design, the best horizontal beams would be one continuous length but I don't have the capability at this time to create a laminated beam that is 40' in length. However, since my WM can only cut beams up to 20'6" in length, I opted for a "compromise" design which allowed me to make each horizontal beam in 3 sections. Having 2- 20' beams joined in the center would be the weakest structurally where as the 3 section beam design allows the center beam loading to transfer to the 2 outer beams and the cross braces. The calculated dead load per side totaled only 3350 lbs. which worked out to a nominal 1 psi on the beams. Adding a 10 psi live load to the beams would not come close to over stressing the joints as designed.
Keep in mind the lap joints were glued (liquid nails), screwed (8" GRK Structural screws), and gussetted (3/8" plywood with liquid nails and 2-1/4" ring shank nails) to enhance the joint strength. Gusset plates overlap the joint on both sides and are applied to both sides of the beams. I hope that answers your question.
I understand where you're coming from. We get a ton of snow load where I am, that was the context of my question. In Texas I assume you don't get that type of roof loading.
Quote from: donbj on February 11, 2020, 11:04:11 PM
Quote from: EOTE on February 11, 2020, 10:41:11 PM
Quote from: donbj on February 11, 2020, 03:45:55 PM
Quote from: EOTE on February 10, 2020, 09:27:03 PMIn the photo below, you can see the end beams extend over the 22' opening. Both end beams were put in place first and then the center beam was lowered into the half laps, screwed, gusset plated, and nailed.
Isn't the beam strength cut in half with a joint like that in mid span?
Donbj, in engineering this sawmill/drying house design, the best horizontal beams would be one continuous length but I don't have the capability at this time to create a laminated beam that is 40' in length. However, since my WM can only cut beams up to 20'6" in length, I opted for a "compromise" design which allowed me to make each horizontal beam in 3 sections. Having 2- 20' beams joined in the center would be the weakest structurally where as the 3 section beam design allows the center beam loading to transfer to the 2 outer beams and the cross braces. The calculated dead load per side totaled only 3350 lbs. which worked out to a nominal 1 psi on the beams. Adding a 10 psi live load to the beams would not come close to over stressing the joints as designed.
Keep in mind the lap joints were glued (liquid nails), screwed (8" GRK Structural screws), and gussetted (3/8" plywood with liquid nails and 2-1/4" ring shank nails) to enhance the joint strength. Gusset plates overlap the joint on both sides and are applied to both sides of the beams. I hope that answers your question.
I understand where you're coming from. We get a ton of snow load where I am, that was the context of my question. In Texas I assume you don't get that type of roof loading.
What's snow ??? :D
Actually I grew up in Montana and had more snow than I wish to remember. We actually had an inch of snow here last winter. It lasted a day.
An inch of snow!? How did you cope?
I can't speak for Texas, but here in Alabama we just shut everything down till the snow or ice melts. lol
Here if they even say snow on the TV weather report, could be talking about it in Montana for that matter, a primal desire to eat three meals a day of French Toast takes over the masses. The shelves are instantly emptied of bread, milk, and eggs, has to be some sort of USDA economic stimulus program or something. :D
Even the bases close down ahead of it, and then stay closed for days...
Quote from: Southside on February 12, 2020, 11:00:07 AM
Here if they even say snow on the TV weather report, could be talking about it in Montana for that matter, a primal desire to eat three meals a day of French Toast takes over the masses. The shelves are instantly emptied of bread, milk, and eggs, has to be some sort of USDA economic stimulus program or something. :D
Even the bases close down ahead of it, and then stay closed for days...
I remember flying into DC for a meeting and the forecast was freezing rain...of course the freezing rain didn't happen but everyone we were supposed to meet with stayed home.
In contrast, growing up in Montana, you didn't get a snow day unless it was 30 below zero. No snow days for snow no matter how much you got! And yup, my dad grew up in Montana as well...had to walk 3 miles to school uphill both ways in the snow and and wind always in your face. He and his brother had to share a pair of shoes so one would go to school barefoot on alternating days. My grandfather would have to milk the cows at 4 in the morning even when it was below zero. We loved those days because he always came back with ice cream ;D :D.
That's why I moved to Texas. I see snow once in a decade and that's good enough for me.
Where sleet, snow and freezing rain are a 2 or 3 times a year event (like here), people just aren't equipped to deal with that kind of weather. Chains, snow tires, studded tires and the like used to be common but not so much anymore. And because of the rarity of that kind of weather nearly nobody learns how to drive in it. Most people don't choose their vehicles based on winter weather. Even people with 4wd don't have any idea how to use it in the snow and ice. It is just safer for those us who can handle the snow and ice to stay off the roads. Seems like winter weather causes people to lose their minds even though the snow and ice rarely lasts more than a day or two here.
I have seen a motorcycle on snow covered roads here... :o
Quote from: Southside on February 12, 2020, 05:01:03 PM
I have seen a motorcycle on snow covered roads here... :o
That's funny :D
Back in the 70's I used to ride my dirt bike in the winter (in Montana) to college as it was the only way to get a parking spot. Only went down once but no damage. When I look back I have to say I was insane and gave my guardian angel ulcers.
I think it was @customsawyer (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1861) that said Colorado winters were so cold that when he milked their cow, it froze into big icicles which they broke off and piled up, and then carried to the house like cordwood.😂