Oliver OC-3 generator

jb616 · November 10, 2019, 08:10:12 AM

I didn't see a forum for equipment so I am asking here. I helped a friend remove and install a generator on his Oliver OC-3 and I read online that you have to polarize the generator when you install it. I read that when you start it up, ground the two wires on the regulator briefly and this will polarize it. Is this true? the owner who has had it for 40 or 50 years has not heard of this. It is currently not charging and we have removed the regulator but have not found a replacement yet. It is a 6 volt positive ground. Thanks for any help!

millwright · November 10, 2019, 02:01:19 PM

I haven't done this for many years, but if I remember right you take a jumper wire from + on battery to the output lug on gen for a moment.

Magicman · November 10, 2019, 02:17:07 PM

But since it is positive ground, it would be - on the battery to the generator output lug.

JV · November 10, 2019, 05:09:01 PM

It's been a long time so I looked it up. Run a jumper wire from the A terminal on the generator to the battery negative terminal. Just tap the negative terminal don't hold it. Do it before you start the engine. There are some videos on YouTube. You had to do it if you changed generators or unhooked the battery. Been a long time since I did anything to a 6 v system.

Gearbox · November 10, 2019, 06:29:18 PM

Positive on the battery to the field terminal on the generator . the next test is to ground the field with the engine running at 1/ 2 throttle . grounded field will produce max charge unregulated .

Magicman · November 10, 2019, 09:35:02 PM

Quote from: jb616 on November 10, 2019, 08:10:12 AMIt is a 6 volt positive ground.

He said that it was positive ground.

mrcaptainbob · November 10, 2019, 10:05:46 PM

Whether a generator or a starter/generator, whether positive ground or negative ground...while the engine is running....just fast enough for a 'charge' to take place, quickly short the two terminals on the generator or starter/generator. Have a screwdriver or wire at the ready. Check for voltage at the battery POSTs with engine off and again after polarizing to verify.
Hopefully you have a known good regulator to support the generator.

jb616 · November 11, 2019, 11:54:42 AM

ok, thanks all. From what I seen online confirms briefly shorting the two posts on the generator. We are checking out the regulator as well. On start up, battery voltage was the same, running and not running. So we will check out the regulator and then polarize the generator.

Ford_man · November 11, 2019, 09:34:42 PM

You said you were looking for a new regulator steinertractor.com $32.95 Shipping

jb616 · November 13, 2019, 12:00:19 PM

Quote from: Ford_man on November 11, 2019, 09:34:42 PM
You said you were looking for a new regulator steinertractor.com $32.95 Shipping

Steiner would not recommend as the OC-3 is not listed in the fitment.

Ford_man · November 13, 2019, 09:15:25 PM

Steiner list one for an OC4 which used the same generator
#1100029,1100035,1100504,1101391 Replaces Reg 111835,1118790
It is a 4 terminal It will work

Ford_man · November 13, 2019, 09:20:46 PM

Zimmerman tractor also has part Zimmerman Oliver Cletrac Tractor Parts - Cletrac Crawler Tractors

jb616 · November 18, 2019, 06:49:05 PM

So my friend had the regulator checked out by the same business that rebuilt the generator and they said it was ok but probably charging at a lower rpm than it should but it does not seem to be charging on the tractor. I polarized the generator by touching a wire from the Field connection to the negative on the batter since it is a positive ground. I have 6.44 volts on the battery before starting and 6.29 when it is running.
The Ammeter is at zero and never moves.
My questions are these:
if the Ammeter is bad, will that prevent it from charging?
Also, can I connect the two wires to bypass the ammeter to see if the voltage rises on the battery?
I am thinking that if the ammeter is bad, it could cause an open circuit, therefore, no charging.
Can i put an ohmeter on the disconnected Ammeter to see if it is bad?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Al_Smith · November 19, 2019, 08:37:05 AM

From the aspect of maintaining the integrity of "stock" appearing ,good idea for a collector .From the opinion of one who plans on using it maybe not so good .
I had a HG model Ollie ,same as an OC 3 that had been converted to 12 volt negative ground with a generator but keeping the 6 volt starter .That set up really wound up the flat head Hercules engine .It never failed to start and I never had a problem with it .Now the rest of the machine is another story . :D
Early this spring I did some work on my Ollie OC 6 crawler that had sat for 14 years .It's 12 volt ,gear reduction starter .One thing I did do was adapt a GM one wire ,90 amp alternator .The generator is on the shelf now .I'll never again have to fiddle with that thing most likely for as long as I live .

Al_Smith · November 19, 2019, 08:46:14 AM

I am thinking that if the ammeter is bad, it could cause an open circuit, therefore, no charging.
Can i put an ohmeter on the disconnected Ammeter to see if it is bad? /end quote .-----You could just bypass the ampmeter .
The little crawler should have a magneto spark .Fire it up ,wind it up and lift the battery lead and take a voltage reading .That should tell the tale .

jb616 · November 19, 2019, 10:54:48 AM

Quote from: Al_Smith on November 19, 2019, 08:46:14 AM
I am thinking that if the ammeter is bad, it could cause an open circuit, therefore, no charging.
Can i put an ohmeter on the disconnected Ammeter to see if it is bad? /end quote .-----You could just bypass the ampmeter .
The little crawler should have a magneto spark .Fire it up ,wind it up and lift the battery lead and take a voltage reading .That should tell the tale .

Do you mean to physically remove the battery lead to take a voltage reading? I am not sure I understand what you are saying here. Thanks.

Al_Smith · November 19, 2019, 02:20:50 PM

On a magneto ignition ,which I assume the OC -3 has it doesn't take a battery spark .If it's running you should able to pull the charge wire from the battery and see if the generator is charging .
Fact you should able to take a voltage reading on both the wire on one side of the meter to see if the generator is reaching the amp gauge .If so and not on the other side you have found it .Leave the wire going to the battery off so you don't get a false reading from the battery voltage .
If the crawler has a battery spark that test won't work .
What will or should work on a battery spark is use a jumper wire to bypass the amp meter ,Start it up,run about 1/2 throttle, pull the battery power wire .If it's working it should stay running if the generator is working and properly wired to the system .

jb616 · December 08, 2019, 08:00:09 PM

Ok, we got it up and running. The biggest problem was the ohmmeter. We replaced that and everything is working as it should.

New problem, the belt flips. There is no adjustment to move the generator forward or back. It sits in a pin on the back and is bolted in. There doesn't seem to be a big alignment problem. It isn't perfect but looks good enough. I flipped it back normal once by twisting the belt and manually turning the engine over until the belt was back the way it is supposed to be, we ran it for 5 minutes and it was fine. He drove it into the woods and back and now it is flipped again. Ideas? It looks like a lot of work to change the belt as there is a shaft and coupler off the crank that runs the hydraulic pump. Might have to remove the pump to get the belt off.

Ljohnsaw · December 08, 2019, 10:44:11 PM

What's the condition of your belt? Like new? A little worn? Old and hard? I had a belt on my homemade sawmill that kept flipping. It was slightly rounded on one edge. I gave up and changed it. Now its fine.

I have a backhoe called a Davis Little Monster that has a twin cylinder Wisconsin engine. It had a 12v generator that was froze up solid. Rather than try and repair or find a replacement (way too expensive), I put in a single wire GM alternator. Works great and never had any issues in the 3 or so years running it.

jb616 · December 09, 2019, 06:28:39 AM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 08, 2019, 10:44:11 PM
What's the condition of your belt? Like new? A little worn? Old and hard? I had a belt on my homemade sawmill that kept flipping. It was slightly rounded on one edge. I gave up and changed it. Now its fine.

I have a backhoe called a Davis Little Monster that has a twin cylinder Wisconsin engine. It had a 12v generator that was froze up solid. Rather than try and repair or find a replacement (way too expensive), I put in a single wire GM alternator. Works great and never had any issues in the 3 or so years running it.

Knowing the owner, the belt is from the 60's :D. I think that is a job that will have to wait til spring as it looks like the hydraulic pump might have to come off in order to change it....

Al_Smith · December 09, 2019, 07:37:10 AM

You'll most likely have to remove the radiator as well as the front drive pump to get to it .The HG I had which is about the same tractor had a 12 Volt Chevy alternator so how the original set up is I have no idea .
Now it might have a spit crankshaft pulley like my OC-6 . On those the pulley width can be adjusted .If that's the case it takes a 5/8" belt and the length has to be dead on for it to work .Fact it took me three belts before I got the correct size .
You're just spinning your wheels to play around with a worn out belt .If you change it out you might never have to do it again .

luap · December 20, 2019, 07:11:40 PM

Quote from: jb616 on December 08, 2019, 08:00:09 PM
Ok, we got it up and running. The biggest problem was the ohmmeter. We replaced that and everything is working as it should.

New problem, the belt flips. There is no adjustment to move the generator forward or back. It sits in a pin on the back and is bolted in. There doesn't seem to be a big alignment problem. It isn't perfect but looks good enough. I flipped it back normal once by twisting the belt and manually turning the engine over until the belt was back the way it is supposed to be, we ran it for 5 minutes and it was fine. He drove it into the woods and back and now it is flipped again. Ideas? It looks like a lot of work to change the belt as there is a shaft and coupler off the crank that runs the hydraulic pump. Might have to remove the pump to get the belt off.

What is the condition of the pulley? A v belt sheave should have the sides at a 17 degree angle. If the belt has been slipping a long time the sides become rounded and the belt will not properly grip or track, possibly causing it to flip over. Can be remedied in a lathe by a machinist. A new belt will work for a while but prematurely wears under this condition.

Al_Smith · December 20, 2019, 08:56:00 PM

I don't know if this will help but it should be an IHK3 or IXA3 Hercules engine The only pics I found it looks like either a 5/8" or 3/4" belt .Big fat one .
If I recall correctly the model HG I had was a thermal siphon no water pump .The fan was on a slide that could be raised to tighten the belt .If that thing was slipping it would really get hot with no air or reduced flow .If somebody put on a 1/2" belt it would likely flip .