Swaging

[lawnsbylane]

I need so help on how to swage my circular saw mabey some videos or something. Ive heard of it just cant grasp the purpose of it thanks Lane

[chopperdr47]

I'm new to the whole thing too. My first attempt was somewhat successful until I made a heavy cut in a large cant. The blade walked some and I changed all the teeth anyway.

JEFF just posted a video on another thread "new teeth". Its not real clear but it gives the idea.

I found a good publication that explains the process fairly well. I'll find it and post it here.

[chopperdr47]

Here it is.

http://www.senecasaw.com/docs/1011.1forum.pdf

[Ron Wenrich]

Here's the current thread on the topic.  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,72657.0.html

[bandmiller2]

I have been spoiled for many years having "friends in Fitchburg" and bits aplenty. I'am going to have to buckle down and start swaging if I want to keep my old Diston saw on line. Paid $.50 at a flea market for a new in the box swage, people have no idea what they are. Frank C.

[chopperdr47]

I'll double your money back on that swage and pay shipping. Keep it in mind if you need a little extra cash.

[backwoods sawyer]

I'll double your money back on that swage and pay shipping. Keep it in mind if you need a little extra cash.

And when he sends it to you I will make you the same deal ;D

When i worked in the production mill we ran swage tooth bandsaws for many years before changing over to stelite. Most of the swaging was done automaticly on the sharpener, however the saw filers had a hand held one that they used on occation.

Anyone have one of those laying around?

[bandmiller2]

If your a puttermiller like myself and not pounding truckloads of logs through the mill each day you can get by without swaging. When the bits get filed/ground down narrow just replace them, You can mill a lot of logs with a set of bits if you keep the mud and gravel away from them. But if you call yourself a sawyer you should at least know about swaging especially to fix bits that need a little more than a file. Frank C.

[NMFP]

Something I have never understood was why if we can make carbide bits that never need swaged, why cant we make steel bits that don't need swaged?  Instead of machining them with a tapered tooth, why not just make it square and modify the gullet (shank) to hold the dust? Even if it is tapered, reduce the amount that there is a witness mark on the top similar to a chainsaw chain that you only sharpen them back so far.  I usually sharpen and swage to get all the life I can at work out of the bits.  I will run them right down to the point that the side of the sharpening wheel is almost contacting the throat of the bit.

When cutting dirty logs, you can do a lot of sharpening and swaging especially if you use standard steel bits.

[bandmiller2]

Many sawyers file bits so they have to make them "file hard" if everyone ground them they could be made harder. But they would rather sell a lot of the softer bits. Frank C.

[NMFP]

Yes, I have seen box after box that one box will hold up very well and then the next box is like sawing with aluminum.  Seems there is some major inconsistency in bit quality and steel composition.

[Ron Wenrich]

I had a major problem with bits a couple of years ago.  It ended up that we did Rockwell test on the metal and some other tests.  I can't recall what all it was.  But, we took Simonds to task on it.  They pretty much pushed it aside until we did tests that they simply don't do.  It was a case of how they're hardened.  If I recall, the hardening process has something to do with the carbon.  You get it above a certain level, and you can't sharpen it, below a certain level and it won't stay sharp.  We even looked into having some made to our specs. 

Simonds is a monopoly if you want to buy steel or chromed teeth.  They bought out all their competition.  They bought Disston, Hoe and IKS.  They do have some competition for carbide.  The only other competition they have come from China.  I think its called Better Bit but they should change the name to Better Not.   ;)

As for swaging, you can't swage a chrome tooth.  You put it on the saw, and just sharpen.  I also use longs instead of the regular teeth.  I stopped swaging years ago.  So have a lot of other sawyers, so I've been told.  The taper isn't as hard as it used to be.  You'll get a bit of a rooster tail on new teeth, but that goes away after a few sharpening.  Its nothing drastic and is worst in tulip poplar.  When the tooth is too narrow, it would be time to pitch the teeth anyways. 

[bandmiller2]

Ron, I have suspicions that even the small companys that sell carbide bits buy the basic bit from Simonds mill a pocket and braze on the carbide. The other post on bits shows a new carbide bit and it sure looks like an "S" on the tail of the bit. Frank C.