Need ya'll for an explanation......Thanks.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · December 30, 2012, 04:03:29 PM

Have you guys been watching "MOONSHINERS" ? :D

POSTON WIDEHEAD · December 30, 2012, 04:04:31 PM

Quote from: LeeB on December 30, 2012, 01:25:37 PM

Poston,
I would recomend using spar urethane for your outdoor benches.

Thanks Lee. Best answer yet. :D :D :D I have plenty of it.

Jay C. White Cloud · December 30, 2012, 05:56:57 PM

If a finish is a natural one, I can speak with some confidence but I think most of you know a heck of a lot more than me about modern finishes. I just have never had that good of luck with them, especially for out side applications. I still would just use my oil mix, and reapply every few years.

With that said, talking to a buddy of mine at "Traditional Boat Works," he mention the top notch modern products in the Maritime trade that may be of interest. I just started looking today, and boy, there is a lot to consider.

Regards,

Jay

Tree Feller · December 30, 2012, 10:07:23 PM

David,

The best advice regarding finishing that I can give you is to get a copy of Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing." It will tell you everything you want to know and more and tell it in a way that anyone can understand...i.e., you don't have to be a chemist to get it.

Lacquer is the cadillac of finishes. It dries quickly, can be tinted, has 100% burn-in (you don't have to sand between coats) and comes in gloss, satin and semi-gloss. Pre-catalyzed, nitrocellulose lacquer is the most common and you really need a spray gun to apply it. There are brushing lacquers available but they take a long time to cure and the odor is horrific.

Polyurethane is a tougher finish than lacquer. It withstands wear, heat and moisture better. It can be brushed or sprayed but dry time is 24 hours per coat and it needs scuff-sanding between coats. Since dry time is so long, it's more susceptable to dust nibs and insects marring it while drying. You almost need a dedicated finish room to spray on poly.

hackberry jake · December 30, 2012, 10:44:28 PM

I have used poly or spar on all the projects I have made in the last couple years. Poly for high wear interior, spar for exterior high uv exposure. I used tung oil on an interior sign and really liked it, but I knew it wouldn't be touched and it wouldn't have car keys thrown on it etc. The biggest tips I have learned about applying urethanes are:
1. The first coat is the easiest to see where you have been.
2. The next coats need good overhead lighting to see where you've been.
3. Paint thinner or mineral spirits can thin urethane.
4. The coats should get progressively thinner.
5. The last thinnest coat is the most important.
6. The surface should be as flat as possible.
7. I use 200 grit between the first couple coats and steel wool after that.

The last coat is the only one you have to worry about dust and you should have it thinned enough and apply it thin enough so that it dries relatively quickly. I have had many complements on my finishes and I know they will stand the test of time. I have been wanting to try out some BLO on one of my next low wear projects.

Trahlin · December 31, 2012, 11:38:42 AM

I dread the last two stages of a furniture/cabinet project, sanding and finishing. Random orbit sander or card scraper have made the sanding part a lot easier to handle.

I read an article (can't qoute the source) about using HVLP sprayer and DEFT brushing lacquer. I cut the DEFT from 30% to 50% depending on the temperature. First coat is usually cut thin. I let this coat dry thoroughly, and do a wet scuff sanding with 400 grit emery cloth and mineral spirits (mineral spirits has no thinning effect on DEFT. Don't use water, you might accidently sand through the finish and it will raise the grain). Rub it lightly with plenty of mineral spirits for lubricant. On flat surfaces I use a flat piece of scrap wood as a backer for the emery paper. Works well to get an even finish with later coats. This doesn't take long, and is not the drudgery that you might imagine. Wipe off the mineral spirits with a clean absorbent cloth. Let the project sit a few minutes to allow the mineral spirits to evaporate off. Your next coat will be smooth as silk.

I am lazy when it comes to finishing. I would rather be machining the pieces and putting them together, and have no qualms about telling people this. This quick method works for me, most importantly for my bride. I have used it for several years. Last year I built kitchen cabinets using this method of finish. If the finish get to looking a bit rough, like above the coffee maker, I just take some of the thinned spray solution and brush on a new coat. Burns right in and looks new again.

Probably not much value, but it saves me time, and earns a few "Atta Boy" points from my beautiful wife.

ely · December 31, 2012, 02:45:48 PM

is DEFT and varnish such as the cabot brand varish two separate animals?

and what product is used to thin DEFT brand wood finish? am i correct that mineral spirits are used for thinning varnish.? i have an hvlp gun that i intend to use for applying the varnish and the deftCWF to walls and ceilings with, and i need to know how to thin it properly... the two brands of finish will be used seperatly in different rooms of the house.