My new Wood-Mizer Sharpener Came Yesterday!!

highpockets · January 20, 2006, 05:35:54 AM

There is a spray stuff at the welding supply that is to keep the hot metal from sticking. I use it with my wire welder but can't remember what the name is. Smells like Granny's bacon gease.

woodbowl · January 20, 2006, 10:33:41 AM

It sounds like everyone is wet sharpening. I haven't wet sharpened in almost a year! ...... I've switched over to a different rock that uses a grade lower binder with hard particals and it cleans itself as it sharpens. I've not had any problems with burned tips or accelerated stone wear. I get a razor sharp tip and I'm able to turn the wick up on the sharpener to approx. 90 teeth per minute. There's not a big cloud of dust around the work and so far the sharpener is not a grody mess like in my previous pics. I'll try to take some new pics of it And best of all, I don't have to contend with water everywhere, that is why it's rusting away. I'm thinking about sandblasting it now and coating it with a good primer. I was persuaded to switch over several years ago but just didn't believe it could be as good as fluid. Got another problem though, since the squirrels can't get their water from my pan of coolant, eth. glyc. I seem to have a a bigger population of them. :-\

jpgreen · January 20, 2006, 11:26:25 AM

Now that's interesting.

The Suffolk people told me they had a better dry stone. IN fact I ordered a stone from them for the Woodmizer, but I think it was for wet. If a stone is fine enough, and you're just truing up an edge, your blade shouldn't get hot. I sharpen my own drill bits on a fine bench grinder stone, and never let it get hot.

I would think if you were trying to salvage a bugger, then you would want to use coolant. Maybe that's the ticket... run the machine dry on maintenance sharpenings, and run coolant on old blades that need a lot of work, damaged blades, etc.

Have you guys checked Suffolk/Timberwolf lately? I gotta say they have a good case for taking a look at their tools and blades. I could see where you would not have much luck if you just bought one of their blades and throw it on the machine using as you would others. You would have to follow their whole theory with band blades, starting with the wheels, tension, guides, set, hook etc., etc. Their instructional video is very impressive, and informative. They go farther into the science of these machines and cutting than any manufacturer I've seen yet.

You guys with steel drive wheels- having trouble with tracking, they have a fix for you. They should be a sponsor here.