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Large sets of router bits?

Started by mredden, December 13, 2019, 10:37:39 AM

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mredden

Hi guys. First time posting in  this particular forum. Also a bit of a newbie to router use. Okay, I'm a newb - not "a bit of"

I am considering purchasing a large set of router bits. I am dealing mainly with 1.5-2 inch oak and pecan boards that I milled with a chainsaw. I have planed/flattened some of them with my router. I own very few router bits of not very high quality other than the Whiteside 2" bottom cleaner I am planing with. These boards will be used for counter and table tops some occasional river tops. I would like to expand to owning "bits for every occasion" When I find that I am using one particular bit over and over, I'll probably upgrade the particular bit to Whiteside or another premium.

I have looked at the 70-piece 1/2" shank set from Yonico. Affordable at about $150. Reviews seem a bit mixed from okay to excellent with none I have seen being really bad reviews.

Anybody have any experience with Yonico bits? Should anything warn me away?

Anybody have other suggestions for other affordable large sets?

If I get this set, does anybody have any suggestions on other types of bits I need to meet my goal of "bits for every occasion" working with these 1/2-2 inch hardwood boards?

Thanks.


Included BitsDiameterHeightAngle
Bottom Cleaning1"5/8"
Straight1/4"3/4"
3/8"1"
31/64"1"
1/2"1"
5/8"3/4"
23/32"3/4"
7/32"3/4"
3/4"3/4"
Flush Trim3/8"1/2"
3/8"1"
1/2"1/2"
1/2"1"
Panel Pilot3/8"1"
Ovolo Plunge1/2"1/2"
Dovetail1/4"7.5°
3/8"
1/2"14°
5/8"14°
3/4"14°
Core Box1/4"1/4"
3/8"5/16"
1/2"3/8"
Round Nose1/4"5/16"
3/8"3/4"
1/4"3/4"
90 Degree V Groove3/8"3/8"90°
90 Degree V Groove1/2"1/2"90°
60 Degree V Groove5/8"60°
60 Degree V Groove5/8"60°
90 Degree V Groove5/8"90°
Plunge Bevel Cutter1/2"30°
Mortising Bit1/2"3/4"
5/8"3/4"
3/4"3/4"
Flush Bevel Trim1/4"25°
Round Over Bits3/4"1/8"r
7/8"3/16"r
1"1/4"r
1-1/8"5/16"r
1-1/4"3/8"r
1-1/2"1/2"r
T-Track/Keyhole3/8"1/2"
1/2"1/2"
Bowl Cutter1"1/2"
Plunge Round Over3/4"1/4"r
Classic Plunge Panel3/4"5/32"r
Cove Bits5/8"1/8"r
3/4"3/16"r
7/8"1/4"r
1"5/16"r
1-1/8"3/8"r
1-3/8"1/2"r
Triple Bead Bit7/8"1"1/8"r
Corner Bullnose7/8"1/4"r
1"3/8"r
Ogee Fillet1-3/8"3/16"r
French Borogue1-1/2"5/8"
Chamfer Bits1"15°
1"22.5°
1"30°
5/8"45°
Double Round-Over1-1/8"5/32"r
Double Roman Ogee1-1/4"3/16"r
Cove & Bead Bit1-1/4"5/16"r
Roman Ogee1-1/16"5/32"r
1-3/8"1/4"r
Rabbeting Bits1-1/4"1/4"
1-1/4"3/8"
1-1/4"1/2"
Included BitsDiameterHeightAngle
Bottom Cleaning1"5/8"
Straight1/4"3/4"
3/8"1"
31/64"1"
1/2"1"
5/8"3/4"
23/32"3/4"
7/32"3/4"
3/4"3/4"
Flush Trim3/8"1/2"
3/8"1"
1/2"1/2"
1/2"1"
Panel Pilot3/8"1"
Ovolo Plunge1/2"1/2"
Dovetail1/4"7.5°
3/8"
1/2"14°
5/8"14°
3/4"14°
Core Box1/4"1/4"
3/8"5/16"
1/2"3/8"
Round Nose1/4"5/16"
3/8"3/4"
1/4"3/4"
90 Degree V Groove3/8"3/8"90°
90 Degree V Groove1/2"1/2"90°
60 Degree V Groove5/8"60°
60 Degree V Groove5/8"60°
90 Degree V Groove5/8"90°
Plunge Bevel Cutter1/2"30°
Mortising Bit1/2"3/4"
5/8"3/4"
3/4"3/4"
Flush Bevel Trim1/4"25°
Round Over Bits3/4"1/8"r
7/8"3/16"r
1"1/4"r
1-1/8"5/16"r
1-1/4"3/8"r
1-1/2"1/2"r
T-Track/Keyhole3/8"1/2"
1/2"1/2"
Bowl Cutter1"1/2"
Plunge Round Over3/4"1/4"r
Classic Plunge Panel3/4"5/32"r
Cove Bits5/8"1/8"r
3/4"3/16"r
7/8"1/4"r
1"5/16"r
1-1/8"3/8"r
1-3/8"1/2"r
Triple Bead Bit7/8"1"1/8"r
Corner Bullnose7/8"1/4"r
1"3/8"r
Ogee Fillet1-3/8"3/16"r
French Borogue1-1/2"5/8"
Chamfer Bits1"15°
1"22.5°
1"30°
5/8"45°
Double Round-Over1-1/8"5/32"r
Double Roman Ogee1-1/4"3/16"r
Cove & Bead Bit1-1/4"5/16"r
Roman Ogee1-1/16"5/32"r
1-3/8"1/4"r
Rabbeting Bits1-1/4"1/4"
1-1/4"3/8"
1-1/4"1/2"

Dan_Shade

This is what I have and do when I need a new one:

A set of round-over bits is handy. As are pattern bits (straight bits with bearings on them).

Get a basic small set of known good/carbide bits, and buy new bits as you need them. I like Freud bits. 

My guess is that most bits in a large set are never used. 

If I only had a router for every bit :-) 
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

KYtoolsmith

+1 on Freud bits. Buy quality and only as needed. No need for a set "just in case". identify what you need and buy as you go...

Just my $.02
Timberking 1220, JD 2032 w FEL/forks, 51 Ford 8n, 47 CJ2a, 51 GMC 100, 80 acres of forest farm.
Makin' sawdust!

btulloh

Good advice above. Buy what you need when you need it. 

There's probably a small set that could be good start, but I'd suggest making a list and then finding a set that sort of matches. 

Moulding shapes especially should be bought when you need them. 
HM126

doc henderson

I think everyone is correct.  if you are starting out, I think a 30 bit set with the usual stuff is ok.  I have used and am happy with the MCLS carbides, but a few oddball bits still have the protective coating on them.  and the lets say 3/4 inch round-overs may get dull and need replaced.  i get everything in 1/2 inch shank except for tiny bits, such as a 1/8th inch round over that I leave in a palm router.  I use it on nearly every thing I make to give a professional easing of sharp corners.  when i started out 45 year ago with my Montgomery Wards router all I could afford were 1/4 inch shank high speed steel with solid guides.  i still have my first router, and my dads only ever router and another  1/2 dozen.  I like porter cable as that is what my dad had, but I have the Bosch colt palm that I love as well.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Kindlinmaker

I follow the big cheap set for modeling - replace with better bits for production as needed philosophy and am very happy. I find that the bit I thought would work at the outset is often slightly different than the bit I use in the end.  I have quite a few "good" bits that were purchased for a project and not used on the final version before I adopted the "cheap" modeling philosophy. And for many projects, I get away with using the cheaper bits for a few required cuts anyway. 

I have not had any luck with the super cheap sets from the super discount box stores but have done OK with sets from Griz or someone similar. I generally go with a middle of the road grade for any production bit; nothing like catching a knot and knicking a brand new high-end $40 bit to ruin an otherwise pleasant day in the shop.  I have quite a few Freud bits just because they tend to be competitively priced across several suppliers as opposed to the less competitive pricing for super high-end bits from limited suppliers. The Freuds seem to work fine for my needs. 

My rule is buy 1/2" shank whenever practical so I can use in a router or my shaper. 1/4" shank whenever freehand routing is more practical like with all of my roundover bits. 

Many hardcore hobbiest woodworkers actually prefer less expensive HSS bits over carbide because they can readily sharpen them in the shop.  My sharpening skills (or rather lack there of) push me toward the moderately priced carbide bits - toss them when they're dull system. I certainly understand the HSS argument though because I do follow it with lathe tools. 
If you think the boards are twisted, wait until you meet the sawyer!

doc henderson

I continue to agree.  the only problem I have with my "vintage"  HSS is the guide will easily burn the edge of the wood and require lots of sanding on a now profiled edge.  My bearing guided carbide 1/8th inch bit only comes out of the colt palm router less than once a year.  I will say years of using the old style guides, taught me to control pressure applied to the guide, and to keep a consistent speed.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Kindlinmaker

With you on that one Doc. I would be very happy to never see a non-bearing bit again.  I certainly don't buy any.  A lot of projects with burn marks that wouldn't sand out. I wonder if they made us better router operators or just cranky dinner companions after an afternoon of trying. 

We could start a conspiracy theory that those old bits contributed directly to the resurgence of colonial and shaker style furniture in the 70s and 80s.
If you think the boards are twisted, wait until you meet the sawyer!

21incher

I just purchased the MLCS 66 pc set and am happy with it. It came with a router bit holder and bottle of oil as extras and only was $167 delivered on black Friday. Subtract the $35 cost of the extras and it only was a little over $2 per bit. I have had excelent luck with the MLCS bits in the past and if there are any problems give them a call and they have replaced the bits. I wouldn't recommend them for production work but for a home use they are a great value in my book.


 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Hilltop366

I have touched up carbide bits with a diamond file, probably not quite as good as new but way better than dull.

doc henderson

sometimes a good cleaning will help them cut more like new if there is pitch build up.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

low_48

I've been woodworking for 47 years, including professionally for 25 years. I have some router bits from sets that have never been used. Advice I can give you, buy router bits and wood when you need it. Neither are bargains sitting in drawers on in stacks in the corner of your shop. I have some special wood that is easily 35 years old. I'll have my wife post on here when I croak, the wood will surely still be in the pile.

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