Battery vs corded electric chainsaw

[Dave Shepard]

Duty cycle is just that, what % of the time is the saw running? If you are processing firewood, then your duty cycle is high, maybe 75%. So if a saw isn't rated for 100% use, you could get an overheat / shutdown. Now with trimming up beams, realistically it's going to take ~30 secs to make a cut? Then several minutes to set up for the next one. Now your duty cycle is only 20%, and if a tool can't handle that, then it's junk.  A larger battery will of course help with that, as it can supply the current for longer before it gets hot.

Also in that scenario, the instant start of the electric is a big plus. Some cuts it's going to take longer to start a gas saw than make the cut. 

Buying your first battery tools will set up brand loyalty

This is true. It's quite normal to end up with 5 tools, 3 batteries and 2 chargers. If you are building, then the M18 series tools probably makes sense. You will want a drill / sander / circ saw etc.

17 tools, 11 batteries, and 9 chargers. That's just M18. I also have M12.

[Andries]

Well Dave, I'd say you're committed.   
Eleven batteries will do that right?
I bought DeWalt a long time ago ( back in the days of NiCd) and have stayed with yellow and black ever since.
I just can't see going back to corded tools on a normal jobsite. 
Unless it's a timber frame project with chain mortiser, 16" beam saws and 11" planers.

[BillyTheKid]

As 21incher asked, is there a link to the jig? I have some timber framing set for this summer with a customer and am interested in a jig.

My two cents on the question of a saw: I also have the Milwaukee M18 with the number 12 battery. It's okay for light/moderate cutting. I am hoping to use it and the recently-acquired gas-powered Husq 540 xp for the job. My job will be outside so gas is okay.  However, the convenience of battery saws is hard to beat for small cuts, etc.

[DHansen]

Since you have a 540XP gas, The 540i XP would be very similar.  I attached a photo of the cut for the 12" red oak.  Can cut stuff this diameter for 1.5 to 2.0 hours of steady work.  One charge of the BLi300 battery will last as long as one tank of gas/oil in a 338XP.  Very smooth surface cut, better wood surface condition than a jig saw.  I have a 535iFR clearing saw that used the same battery and charger, so this made sense for my needs.  I looked at the Stihl, and if the batteries would have been the same as the other Stihl battery yard equipment, I already have I would have with the Stihl 300. 

ADDED: I may have misunderstood.  The OP may not have a 540xp, but BillyTheKid does.

[Rhodemont]

Connext Post and Beam   https://ctpostandbeam.com/ is the company I am working with.  The Web site has all the connectors, tools, and videos.  Pete, who passed last year uses a corded Stihl in several of the videos but is cutting pine. 

I am going with the MSA 300 C-O with 18" bar battery and charger at $1299.  Sawed the last 8x12 yesterday.  The log was a but (which all the 8x12 are from) at 16' long.  Beam need be 12' 8" so took out my MS362 to trim back the flared end a couple feet making it easier to saw.  The 362 works hard in those but ends.  So, after sawing I took another cut on the same end of the 8x12.  Much easier but the 362 is working.  With the time and effort and overall cost of this project the extra $ above other units suggested will not be important if I get straight even notches and ends.  

Dave I did look at the M18 on line but would want to see one run and do not have other Milwaukee battery tools.

[21incher]

I put this video together  a couple weeks ago about cutting firewood with my m18 saws. The pile is 3 rows deep now with anything under 16 inches cut with my m18 saws. I have about 30 m18 batteries now and 22 dewalt batteries with most 6 ah or more. I started with  Dewalt OPE to replace gas machines but they underperformed and had poor ergonomics.  Now have switched to all Milwaukee and love everyone of them. Last year the 16 Inch saw cut almost  this much also so I think they will last. The chains are not real sharp in the video because I hadn't  sharpened them since starting. It wasn't cheap, but well worth not dealing with gas or fumes. Also have many other m18 and m12  tools along with some Dewalts that are older and better  made then their newer tools.

[21incher]

This is an older one when I first started switching over 

[BillyTheKid]

Thanks for posting link of Connext Post and Beam. I watched the videos and looked over the tools. Very affordable. I have several mini mill saw guides that are similar to the Connext system. Yes, the cuts are very smooth and accurate as the video says. Although I'm a seasoned log builder, I haven't done any timber framing yet. So I was wondering how to make some of the cuts and attach some of the posts. Now I know. Very helpful!

[21incher]

For just cutting slots for those plates and ends, I bet a Harbor Freight 18 inch battery saw would be good enough without much investment.  I was thinking mortise and tennons that would tax a saw. 

[Rhodemont]

Ouch $.  The MSA 300 C-O is in the shop with a battery and charger.  I plan to start the build in a couple weeks so will pic and post the set up and saw in action.

[Rhodemont]

I just read through the MSA300 manual.  A bit disappointed with the dealer.  The saw has a power level function.  ECO, Avg, Max power.  He showed me how to adjust with the touch button.  Thing is he had a 500 battery in the saw to demonstrate. Talking with him I purchased a 300 battery since this saw will not be for continuous cutting and therefore a couple extra minutes run time is not an issue.  The power control only works with the 500 battery.  Not sure it will matter much for my need but still disappointed.  I did purchase the 500 charger because it works with the 300 battery and if I ever get a new battery (a 500) I am all set.  

[DHansen]

What chain are you running on the MSA300?   Let us know about battery life between recharging.  

[Rhodemont]

This is the set up it came with 

[realzed]

I just read through the MSA300 manual.  A bit disappointed with the dealer.  The saw has a power level function.  ECO, Avg, Max power.  He showed me how to adjust with the touch button.  Thing is he had a 500 battery in the saw to demonstrate. Talking with him I purchased a 300 battery since this saw will not be for continuous cutting and therefore a couple extra minutes run time is not an issue.  The power control only works with the 500 battery.  Not sure it will matter much for my need but still disappointed.  I did purchase the 500 charger because it works with the 300 battery and if I ever get a new battery (a 500) I am all set. 

Have you tried out the 300 actually yet with the 300 battery?
The reason I ask this is, when I was curious and asking about pricing etc. just as a comparison in my own mind to that of a 261CM, the guy behind the counter stated "the battery is extra and that's a 500 series version and that's the only size for that model and one is $500"..
Maybe he was wrong in stating that - but he seemed pretty adamant about it, but since I was only 'kicking tires', I didn't ask any more details regarding the battery or even a charger for the $250 cost he offered..

[Brucer]

The Stihl AP500s battery is the same size as the AP300s, weighs 10% more, has 20% more charge capacity, and is physically and electrically compatible with all the tools in Stihl's professional line. Most important, though, is that the 500 battery can deliver more current than the 300. That's why the 500 is recommended for the bigger saw.

The MSA300 has 3 speed settings as Rhodemont said, but it will limit you to  the ECO mode if you put an MSA300 battery in it. That's because the higher speeds draw more current than the 300 will deliver.

For most of my cutting with the MSA300 I'm using the second speed setting. It's a good balance of cutting speed and charge life. The ECO mode is much more efficient (less current = less heat = less energy waste) -- very useful when you're trying to stretch out the battery life to finish a job.

When I bought my MSA300, my dealer warned me that the 300 batteries I already owned wouldn't be adequate for the bigger saw so I knew what I was getting into.

Rhodemont, in your shoes I would complain suggest to the dealer that he should have warned you about the limitations of the 300 batteries and perhaps he should let you trade in the 300 battery and credit the price toward a 500 battery.

[Rhodemont]

I have run the saw with the 300 battery to learn how to operate it but have not yet cut anything with it.  I have a few more timbers to saw, the rain to stop and some bit warmer weather before I start cutting to length and notching for the build.  I do plan to practice before hand which will be the first cuts.  I expect the 300 battery to make the cuts and I do not need long run time so I may or may not talk with the dealer.

[realzed]

When I wrote "the guy behind the counter stated "the battery is extra and that's a 500 series version and that's the only size for that model and one is $500"..":
Maybe I was misquoting him in that he meant to say "the 500 series battery is the only 'proper' size for that model of saw"..
Sounds like a 300 series is just one to get by with and the 500 version comes with the proper features that allow the saw to be utilized in the 3 modes as it is meant to be, and for as long as it can be per charge - IF the buyer or user can or wants to absorb the extra costs for the features and time it brings with it as an upgrade..

[Ron Scott]

I would go with one of the battery chainsaws over an electric saw. The new battery saws have come a long way in quality and battery operating time. Husky has both a homeowner and professional model. The homeowner model is quite efficient for general saw use.

[Ianab]

I'd suggest that ANY battery tool with only one battery is at some point going to lead to frustration. I can see why Stihl bundle the basic battery, because Sticker Shock, and the lower spec battery will probably get the job done in the majority of use cases. Think gardening / fencing / building etc. Where you do need a small (and reliable) chainsaw, but only for minutes over the course of the day. Depending on the actual use, a 2nd (larger) battery may be on the shopping list. 

[terrifictimbersllc]

Rhodemont, I wish I had seen this thread earlier. I have a (corded) Stihl MSE220, about a $500 saw 10 yrs ago, that I use sometimes to process firewood in my front yard, to reduce my noise footprint. I use it with a 50 ft 10 ga extension cord.  I would have been happy to loan it to you to try out.

It has a 3/8 .050 18" bar and I have no trouble cutting most hardwoods I bring home sometimes up to 24". I cant saw as fast with it as my MS461 but I think it would easily handle joint cutting for timber framingat whatever pace one wanted to make the cuts.

That being said a big enough cordless would be great too. I have the stihl 200 that uses the AP300+ battery and the battery run time is almost never limiting  for me (if I remember to charge it up so it is ready for the next time). More limiting is the need to resharpen the chain, and the wear life of that skinny chain.  Your .325 chain will perform better sharpening and wear life wise.

[esteadle]

So I think you're far better off with a corded electric than any battery saw. 

A Stihl 300 is going for 1200. Corded saws go for less than 100 and as low as 60 on Amazon. So you can buy a dozen corded saws for 1 battery saw. Stihl says these saws have about the power of the MS270, which per manuals is running around 2.6kw (2600 watts).


A corded saw will draw 12-15 amps so 1500 - 1800 watts, so you're not losing that much. Plus, never need to charge it and the battery won't be wearing down over time and use and shortening your run time.

The most important feature of any saw is a sharp blade. The sharpness of blades on battery saws is not any better than any other type.