iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

drying eastern Larch

Started by Quebecnewf, April 14, 2011, 07:26:55 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Quebecnewf

I have been lucky enough this winter to cut 9 large eastern larch logs. I have dried some of this before in my solar kiln but with mixed results. It dries but I seem to have lots of twist and split. Some of the  larch logs I  sawed and dried before were not first quality so I know that was some of the reason (you can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear)

These logs are much better quality (less knots and bigger etc). MY questions are

Would I be better of sawing and then  air drying for a month or so and then into the Kiln?

or Sawing and putting into kiln right away

or
Sawing putting into kiln and taking steps to not let the temp too high for the first month or so.

I went a long way on Snowmobile to get these logs and I don't want to scrap the lumber.

Quebecnewf


KBforester

I'm no expert, I've only been sawing for a couple of months... almost all of it eastern larch though. From everything I've read, air drying is best... at least for the first 6 weeks or so? Maybe someone else can verify. So far I've had good results with my larch. The only serious warping I've seen are on a few logs that turned into potato chips right off the saw. I haven't sawing anything less than 1" thick, mostly 2X and bigger though.

Trees are good.

Quebecnewf

I was leaning that way as well but I'm not sure. Do your logs have many knots and how long are your lengths??

I am planing to saw a little thicker instead of 1" maybe 1 1/4" for example.

Maybe someone else can comment on this

Quebecnewf

KBforester

I using 8ft, 12ft, and 15ft logs. The 15 ft logs often have some big live knots, but most of the others have very few. I usually cut the ones with big knots into 6"x8"s.


The clearest stuff I have gets turned into 2x6 studs and decking



I think thicker is safer no matter what your making. But again, definitely not an expert.
Trees are good.

SwampDonkey

Well, what's the heart color? If it's reddish brown, then it's fast grown and likely less stable than yellowish or russet brown heartwood trees. Won't move much dimensionally until below 24% MC.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

tyb525

You might try air drying it for a month or two in an area where it is out of the wind and the weather, so it won't dry too fast. Then into the kiln, to get rid of the water in the cells and set the pitch. That's what I'd do anyways.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

petefrom bearswamp

I may tick Jeff off again, but try another forum which is run by a retired Prof from Perdue U.
He is very knowledgeable
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

tyb525

Before you resort to another forum, give it a few days. Not everyone can read your question right away. There are plenty of people on here with the knowledge to answer your question.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

tyb525

Here Swamp Donkey references it as being warp and twist prone.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,49351.msg713147.html#msg713147

Here's a post made by yourself, and there a few other members saying it is prone to warp and twist.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,11413.msg158035.html#msg158035

It sounds like it's just a wood that is naturally prone to warping and twisting.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

beenthere

Quote from: Quebecnewf on April 14, 2011, 07:26:55 AM
I have been lucky enough this winter to cut 9 large eastern larch logs. I have dried some of this before in my solar kiln but with mixed results. It dries but I seem to have lots of twist and split. Some of the  larch logs I  sawed and dried before were not first quality so I know that was some of the reason (you can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear)

These logs are much better quality (less knots and bigger etc). MY questions are

Would I be better of sawing and then  air drying for a month or so and then into the Kiln?

or Sawing and putting into kiln right away

or
Sawing putting into kiln and taking steps to not let the temp too high for the first month or so.

I went a long way on Snowmobile to get these logs and I don't want to scrap the lumber.

Quebecnewf

You ask a tough question. And I admit to having only an opinion. ;)
Much will depend on the air drying conditions, as well as the kiln drying control available and the drying conditions that you can create in the kiln.   Then on top of that, the availability of a kiln schedule for drying the eastern larch from which you would want to follow with the kiln settings. Thickness of the sawn material will enter into the schedule as well.
Not knowing the expected air drying conditions (temp and relative humidity) at your location, I'd still seriously suggest stickering in stacks for air drying first. Then plan for monitoring the moisture in the wood and moving it to the dry kiln (maybe at that time sort any bad actor pieces out and just continue drying the better grades of boards in the kiln).

These are just thoughts to ponder for your decision. Drying a species that is unfamiliar and with no experience (previous disappointment) leaves a few things to chance.
And I can appreciate your concern that your venture getting this material home means you don't want to lose it to any miscalculations.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

red oaks lumber

from what i have seen regarding larch, air dry slowly seem to have the least amount of negeative affects. if you can somewhat limit the amount of air flowing thru your stacks that helps slow the drying down but, if you block to much air then you will get mold issues.
sawing over size first then resawing after dry will help. it takes more time and labor yet it gives you a chance of having very good usable lumber when your done.larch has very big pitch pockets in the lumber so kiln drying to finish it propely and setting the pitch is also reccommended. talk to the people that will be drying for you they might have some suggestions for you.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Quebecnewf

Well thanks for all the input guys. Iwill start sawing the larch this weekend weather permitting. I will stack outdoors for 6 weeks or so in a covered stickered pile weighed down with rocks. It should not dry too fast as its not real warm here yet. It is snowing outdoors as I'm typing this and has been all day.

After 6 weeks or so I will put it in the kiln on the bottom and finish the pile up with birch. I also plan on more rows of stickers . I used 3 rows on 8 ft but will up this to 5 rows on 8 ft.

I will post pics on this thread of the sawing after the weekend.

Plan is to launch the boat in the next week or so and get ready for my rafting trip to get the logs home that I cut last winter. More pics to follow on that as it happens.

Quebecnewf

tyb525

Quebecnewf, although it might require more stickers, 16-24" is a good spacing for stickers, I used to measure the spacing, but anymore I use my eye  by putting two stickers on the ends, then filling in between them keeping the spacing the same. For a 10' stack, I usually use 7 stickers which is about 17" spacing, but if it's low grade or "utility" wood, I might only use 5 stickers just to save them.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

red oaks lumber

sticker the wood the first day the same as when the wood goes in the kiln. 8' use a min. of 5 stickes ,poor stickering can really ruin the wood even in 6 weeks time.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Quebecnewf

I have been learning that the hard way. As I said before I have been using 3 rows on 8' in my kiln but I have realized after removing the last batch  of birch a year ago now that this was not enough even for birch which is less prone to twisting than the larch will be.

This will be my first load with 5 rows so I hoping for big improvments. I had no lumber in the kiln all last summer as weather over the winter was not suitable for logging.

Waiting to start sawing this spring . We still have fairly cold temps here but should get the mill going tomorrow even though the forcast is for some snow once again.

Quebecnewf




Here is a pic of the first logs I hope to saw this was taken a few weeks ago so some of that snow is now gone



Bill Gaiche

Quebecnewf, Would you post some photos of the inside and outside of your kiln please? thanks, bg

Quebecnewf

 


Went into the mill by boat today to start sawing some birch abd larch for the kiln



Beautiful day here todayt and the snow is going fast






First birch log on the rig and my batteries went dead.

We sawed 2 larch and 7 nice birch . Plus a few fir great day for the first day sawing this year . Hope to get more pics next time around

Quebecnewf

Quebecnewf

 



Here is a photo of the solar kiln It is a insulated shed with a clear roof and a solar powered fan, Very basic

Quebecnewf

Thank You Sponsors!