Finally!

[traded]

I've been a long time viewer first time poster, I purchased a Hudson Oscar 330pro two years ago and finally set it up.  It is a fixed mill that I'm still contemplating what to use as a permanent base, open to suggestions!  It will take a 30" log with enough track to mill a 20' log comfortably.  My first couple logs were hemlock that I used the material for a hay feeder roof and to build a sled for a horse team.





I'm looking forward to continue on this adventure.  The wife said I had the biggest grin on my face as I was making my first cuts!

[terrifictimbersllc]

You are very motivated. Congratulations!

[YellowHammer]

Congratulations!

[thecfarm]

Get yourself a Logrite, sponsor on the left cantdog or a peavey and you will really be smiling. 
Have fun sawing!!!
How are you getting the logs out of the woods?

[Roundhouse]

Congrats! Nothing like that first day of milling.

[traded]

I'm pulling them out with a John Deere 5420 using a drawbar on my draft links for now.  At some point I'm hope to get a logging winch, but will have to make some money with the mill first to fund it.  I used the bucket and a chain to lift the log onto the track, the logs were 10' and 14'.  I'm hoping to build a post and beam enclosure for the mill then a barn as well.

[Brad_bb]

Welcome!  A concrete pad is ideal if you can swing it.  An indoor or covered concrete pad is even better.

[thecfarm]

At the least build just a shed for the head of the mill. I've been planning to do that for more than 15 years.  :

[Peter Drouin]

 

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, traded!

Where abouts are you located, some peoples opinion of "upstate NY" is White Planes! :

[dgdrls]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, traded!

Where abouts are you located, some peoples opinion of "upstate NY" is White Planes! :

It's the wild untamed frontier beyond the Bronx Yonkers line ;)

Congratulations on the mill @traded and welcome
D

[Nebraska]

 When you decide on a permanent spot, pour a two tier concrete slab with the bottom of the mill setting at about knee height. Build a small shed towards the back end with a cantilevered roof overhang  to park the head under out of the weather.  The rest of the shed to hang blades in, keep your log rite  cant hooks, "magic hooks", chains, assorted tools and spare parts, and at least one medium sized chainsaw.  My roof isn't built that way and it requires too much wiggling to set a long >16ft  log.   These arent my reality mind you...Having my mill a little higher would beeen better as well. Things we learn as we go along.

[Iwawoodwork]

I suggest putting a couple3 of logs down on the ground at 90 degrees to your mill for a log deck. that way you are not loading directly on the mill, less chance of something happening and damaging the mill. Set the saw logs on the deck logs and roll the logs onto the mill.
For a base, temporary or semi permeant, I would put down the mfg home concrete pads about 4 feet apart  length wise then cut 6x6 or 8x8 timbers to run lengthwise with maybe 4x6 crosspieces spaced 2-3 feet apart wiith all of this screwed together, your mill set on top and secured. loading and turning logs will shake and move your mill if not secured.

[btulloh]

This has worked well for me.  Not as good as a pad and a full shed, but simple and quick.  Like mentioned above, knee high is a good height.  Mine could stand to be a little higher, but not bad as it sits.  

My log deck is pretty simple and quick too.  This was just a test concept and I'm still using it.  Even a simple log deck makes handling and loading logs a lot quicker, easier, and less chance of damaging the mill bed.



 

 

Just one way to go at it.  Just a matter of how elaborate you want to get.

[Mattjohndeere2]

Looks awesome! You'll be happy with your oscar. My dad bought an oscar 2 back in the early 2000s when hudson was first getting into mills. Still using it! Just keep the head covered, and make sure the water reservoir is drained in the winter when not using it. Ours is split open from too many times of water left in it. And if you need help, go to hudons and ask for Uncle Wayne. He's pretty good with the mills.



 

[slider]

Welcome Traded good advice from others . Logright is a fine cant hook i would get 2 big and small. If you build a log ramp be sure you can clean around it. Loose bark builds up. 

Your on a slippery slope i hope you know. 

[richhiway]

looks good. enjoy it.

[traded]

Thank you everyone for the warm welcome!  I've been pondering the idea of a concrete pad or running 2 I beams the length.  Perhaps I'll begin with milling some cribbing and raising the deck to knee level and try that first.  I can see as I move forward, and inevitably get older, it would definitely be easier if the mill was at knee level.  I also have been thinking about the log ramp, the least amount of rise possible I would assume is the best way to go.

[RAYAR]

Welcome aboard Traded. Build your log deck the same height as your log bunks, that way, you can just roll them across without having to fight a ramp. You might make a ramp on the other end where you can push them up with the tractor. Also have stops so the logs don't roll beyond where you want them.

You also want your mill set up in such a way that you can rake the sawdust out from under it occasionally.

[breederman]

Welcome. I live in Otsego county too. 

[Stephen1]

Welcome the FF A wealth of information and all sorts of help. 

[traded]

Well made a rookie mistake, got out to the mill and started working on a couple more hemlock logs, everything seemed to be going pretty well.  After squaring the cant, I realized it wasn't even close to being square!  Forgot to relevel the track and the cant definitely showed it.  After several hours of frustration went in for dinner and told the wife about my afternoon dilemma.  She said why don't you just pour a concrete pad!  I'm definitely a lucky man, she said it before I even had to mention it!  So its looking like within the next few weeks a pour will be done.  I know the thicker the better when it comes to a pad, but debating on 4" or 6" slab.  The overall length of the mill track is 30' and the width is 3'.  Looking for suggestions as to thickness and area to cover.  I would like to keep the cost at a minimum, I'll be doing all the work so only material cost is the concern.

[thecfarm]

The only advice I have is a good base, to drain the water away and build it high. So in 10 years it won't be below grade.

[Crossroads]

Congratulations!

[Don P]

A well drained washed rock base, we call them 57's, 8" minimum concrete thickness under the bunk support areas gently tapered to 4" thick in the areas spanning between those support zones and as much rebar lengthwise and crossways as you can stand. Casting scraps of flat plate flush with the surface with hooks welded to the underside to grab into the concrete at any locations where you might want to weld bracing and support clips of angle or tube later will make that work easier. That is all hindsight mind you  .