Workbench Build

lowpolyjoe · November 28, 2015, 08:20:02 AM

Thanks Haggis. I really like the look of that style leg joint. I'm considering making a table for the house that has a similar look - though obviously not quite as beefy

After 2 serious planing sessions I thought I was making good progress with on the benchtop. I had flattened and removed twist from the bottom face previously, so I figured I could use that surface as a reference with a marking gauge and ensure my top was flat and not twisted.

Sadly - this is what I found. Thinnest point on the benchtop

Thickest point on the benchtop

And there were a lot of places that far off. 1/2" to 3/4" difference. Such a bummer. There was so much twist in the lamination that I guess I should have expected this, but it was still a shocker.

21incher · November 28, 2015, 09:59:30 AM

Seems like you should make a router sled to flatten it. Any twist or bow will most likely show up in all your projects. Thanks for sharing your build.

lowpolyjoe · November 28, 2015, 10:20:41 AM

Quote from: 21incher on November 28, 2015, 09:59:30 AM
Seems like you should make a router sled to flatten it. Any twist or bow will most likely show up in all your projects. Thanks for sharing your build.

Thanks, I was considering that. I've used a little router setup I built to flatten some horribly cut chainsaw mill lumber so I already have a planing bit. I don't have a jointer so getting flat rails might be challenging. only lumber I have is crappy construction grade stuff

Ljohnsaw · November 28, 2015, 12:14:37 PM

I've started a project to make a router sled/slab flattening tool. I'm using some 1.5" angle to make some 10' long rails, some angle "bed rails" for the cross sled and router sled. I picked up a bunch of ball bearing sliding door wheels to mount on the parts. I picked up a 3" 'cleanup' router bit to put in my Porter Cable. The goal is to be able to flatten a 40" x 100" project.

The only issue I have right now is the 10' sticks of angle have a little bow in them. I straighten them pretty well but need to make a way to pull them straight (like with a turnbuckle) to fine tune them. I'd like them dead on!

mesquite buckeye · November 28, 2015, 12:15:02 PM

If you don't have a jointer you could use some 1/2" square tube steel as twist sticks and get it pretty close. ;D 8) 8) 8)

lowpolyjoe · December 01, 2015, 12:14:08 PM

I started work on a simple router sled setup the other day using some 2x lumber I had laying around. It will not be perfectly straight but should get me in the area of flat and I can finish with hand planes, straight edges and winding sticks.

No pics yet, but i'll take some next time I get to work on it

lowpolyjoe · December 06, 2015, 01:15:03 PM

Router sled worked better than expected. I did virtually no planning or design. Just screwed pieces of wood together until it did what I wanted. I did throw a rear-fence on the sled after these pics which help when dragging the router back after a cut pass

Edge of the end grain didn't like the router. For this and other reasons, there's a lot of epoxy in my future

Near side done. It's close to 3/4" lower than the far side at this point

Unfortunately the router was not happy, and after a spectacular lightning show through the vents to the motor, it gave up. One brush is pretty fried.

Aggravating to find that Sears does not stock this. I will have to order it. I like this little craftsman router but was considering upgrading to a nicer one. Wonder if there are any Christmas deals

Larry · December 06, 2015, 02:25:34 PM

Our small tool repair place, even though they advertise Porter-Cable, repair anything. They have a huge stock of brushes, many discontinued. If I talk nice they will even make a brush. Prices are higher than online but no shipping charge so it works out well.

You might check around, as it is a whole lot easier than ordering something that doesn't quite fit.

I think your workbench build is going well and should be worth the effort. Every project has its quirks. :D

Kbeitz · December 06, 2015, 04:27:50 PM

Makeing aa brush is real easy. Just buy oversize and lay it on a wood file and sand to the right size.

lowpolyjoe · December 06, 2015, 06:42:12 PM

I was feeling adventurous so i tried to fix the broken brush. the lead sort of charred and disconnected from the contact end. the carbon was completely misshapen.

I soldered the remaining bit of the lead back onto the contact.

Then i used a razor to shave the carbon back into a reasonable shape. A file is a great idea KBeitz... wish i thought of that.

The spring was now compressed a lot more than originally, so i had to play with it a bit before it would work - but it got me through the second half of the table. Looking pretty flat now.

I started on the epoxy work. very tedious.

beenthere · December 06, 2015, 07:17:45 PM

joe
I'd use that bench just as it is... skip the epoxy. Let the openings fill with fine sawdust, paint, whatever from your bench exploits.. the patina it will take on will enhance it, no end.

As long as it is reasonably flat, use it.

LaneC · December 07, 2015, 10:14:53 AM

x 2

lowpolyjoe · December 13, 2015, 07:25:39 PM

Cutting the bench ends square today.

One pass with the circular saw

Finish up by hand

Cleanup with some planes

I also sanded my epoxy crack filling. Not thrilled with the outcome, but a few gaps were near 1/4" wide and really needed attention. Worst offender was the leg joint on the far left - it was a complete disaster. A few gaps running half the length of the bench were also a bit wide.... they show up as dark lines in this pic.

Ljohnsaw · December 13, 2015, 07:40:56 PM

Looking too good to use now! 8)

Magicman · December 13, 2015, 08:12:05 PM

It's fun to go back and read the entire build.

Darrel · December 13, 2015, 09:54:18 PM

very interesting read, this thread. Great work!

LaneC · December 14, 2015, 07:26:14 AM

That bench is finer than a frog hair(old saying) It is really nice. Did you make your mark underneath, or did you forget

;D?

lowpolyjoe · December 14, 2015, 07:33:08 AM

Thanks everybody

. Next up I have to add my vises.

LaneC - I did actually stamp my initials in one of the legs a while back... but to be honest, I forget exactly where and it may have gotten hidden during the glue-up. I bought a set of stamps from harbor freight. I'm not too happy with them because the letter cutout is relatively shallow and the rim of the stamp easily contacts the workpiece when you whack it, effectively stamping a circle around each letter. I had planned on returning the set but completely forgot about it until your question :D. The Doug-Fir is pretty soft - it may be less of an issue with harder wood.

Dodgy Loner · December 14, 2015, 08:23:46 AM

That's coming out really nice, gaps and all

jueston · December 14, 2015, 09:00:00 AM

its good to have a few gaps and cracks in a workbench, then you won't get too upset when you drill through your work piece into it, or slip with a chisel and gouge it...

someone on the forum once posted a picture of a beautiful and amazing work bench made out of blood wood which looked far nicer then my dining room table, and i could never use that as a work bench...

but the important part is how does it work? go and build something and tell us how you feel about it then....

lowpolyjoe · December 18, 2015, 08:43:08 PM

Took more work than I expected to plane down the dogs to fit properly. I destroyed one in the process by planing it completely out of square.

Because each dog hole is slightly different, I used my new harbor freight stamp kit to mark the holes and the corresponding dogs so I don't mix them up down the road

rasman57 · December 18, 2015, 09:41:35 PM

Your attention to detail on your bench build has been impressive. What a great project and you will appreciate it every time you work on something. Thanks for the pics and story.

lowpolyjoe · December 19, 2015, 07:19:31 AM

Thanks Rasman. I have a love-hate relationship with this project. It's fun as a project in itself, but I also want it done so I can start using it for work on other stuff

Can I get some votes on whether I should apply any finish to this workbench or leave it raw?

From what I've read, a bit boiled linseed oil is often recommended for workbenches. I'm unsure if it's worthwhile. Will it protect against water damage if I get the bench wet (say, with my waterstones) ? That's the only real benefit I could think of. Don't think it will protect against wayward chisel blows :D

Magicman · December 19, 2015, 07:56:07 AM

I am a fan of Sanding Sealer for the workbench. It leaves a nice finish plus prevents a spill from soaking in.

I would paint the indented numbers white for future readability.

Larry · December 19, 2015, 09:54:57 AM

I assume the sanding sealer is a shellac product.

Going a bit further one of my favorite finishes is Zinsser Bullseye Shellac. It comes clear and amber. Out of the can its too heavy of a cut and needs thinning by a third to half with denatured alcohol only. I also add a splash or two of mineral oil. The mineral oil aids application as it lubricates and keeps the shellac from dragging. The oil does not mix so one has to shake before application. I wipe on two or three fast coats with a rag. It dries almost instantly. Fairly cheap and extremely easy application.

It gives a excellent appearance but provides limited protection from liquids, maybe better than oil. No protection from alcohol products. Very easy to renew the finish when it begins looking shabby.