Band mill engine sizing.

dgdrls · October 31, 2015, 07:50:39 AM

I think you know what you really want ;)

best

Dan

pineywoods · October 31, 2015, 01:20:52 PM

Never heard of anyone complaining about too much power, but it's real easy to have too much weight. Especially when doing an engine swap. Even with new builds, too much weight will make the mill top heavy..

JB Griffin · November 01, 2015, 10:14:28 PM

I started out with a 25hp kohler on my first mill, which was woefully under powered due to poor design(my friend lt 28 with the same motor could cut circles around mine) and had a hyd pump on it. Now I have a 33hp Kubota and can out cut most if not any bandmill in my area. Next stop 50+hp ;D

redprospector · November 01, 2015, 11:01:53 PM

Well, I guess I'll throw in my 2 cents.
I started out running an LT30 manual with a 14 hp. Kohler, I upgraded that to a used 16 hp. Briggs. From there I got a Silvasaw with a 20 hp. Kohler. None of these were enough to satisfy my insatiable appetite for sawing big gnarly Douglas Fir logs. In 97 I started building my own mill. I decided that hydraulic up and down, and hydraulic feed were a must. When choosing an engine I wanted something that would have plenty of power, and be easy to work on. I settled on a 1600cc Volkswagen engine out of a 73 Bug. How much simpler can you get? I mean you can rebuild one on the side of the highway with a pair of vice grips, channel locks, a crescent, and 2 screwdrivers...oh yeah, you'll need a pocket knife and a couple of Copenhagen lids too. :D I found my engine for about $400, put another $300 in it, and for $700 bucks plus a 50 mile trip I had about 53 rompin', stompin', log cuttin' horse power. There is no replacement for displacement. Now I find myself needing hydraulics on the bed real bad. But that's another project.

deadfall · November 02, 2015, 12:12:39 AM

I gotta know, were the Copenhagen lids for adjusting the valves?

Ga Mtn Man · November 02, 2015, 09:09:29 AM

Quote from: Jaket123 on October 29, 2015, 09:11:07 AM...My only issue with running up/down hydraulics and hyd feed is how to run it from my portable trailer base to the moving Sawhead. At work we use what we "cat track" the keeps all cables and lines all need and in place as the moveable part moves along its axis (ie carriage moving back and forth on the trailer. Anyone have photos of how someone else accomplished this?

Have a look at the TimberKing mills and the Cook's AC-36. Should be some good ideas there.

ladylake · November 03, 2015, 06:14:36 AM

Quote from: redprospector on November 01, 2015, 11:01:53 PM
Well, I guess I'll throw in my 2 cents.
I started out running an LT30 manual with a 14 hp. Kohler, I upgraded that to a used 16 hp. Briggs. From there I got a Silvasaw with a 20 hp. Kohler. None of these were enough to satisfy my insatiable appetite for sawing big gnarly Douglas Fir logs. In 97 I started building my own mill. I decided that hydraulic up and down, and hydraulic feed were a must. When choosing an engine I wanted something that would have plenty of power, and be easy to work on. I settled on a 1600cc Volkswagen engine out of a 73 Bug. How much simpler can you get? I mean you can rebuild one on the side of the highway with a pair of vice grips, channel locks, a crescent, and 2 screwdrivers...oh yeah, you'll need a pocket knife and a couple of Copenhagen lids too. :D I found my engine for about $400, put another $300 in it, and for $700 bucks plus a 50 mile trip I had about 53 rompin', stompin', log cuttin' horse power. There is no replacement for displacement. Now I find myself needing hydraulics on the bed real bad. But that's another project.

In over 11000 hours my TK B20 with a 6hp gas running the hydraulics on the bed has worked great, I much rather have that than a energy track or electric over hydraulics. I did replace the motor at 6000 hours for $200, I run it about half throttle and it's not hard on the motor. I like that VW motor, how much does it weigh? Steve

pineywoods · November 03, 2015, 09:47:16 AM

Yeah, I thought about the VW motor when the time came for a new power plant. Junked bugs are getting scarce around here. One weakness is the rear main bearing ( ok, it's the front main in the bug). I was concerned about the side loads with a belt drive. That all went out the window when I came across a 25 hp liquid cooled kawasaki V twin at a good price...

Magicman · November 03, 2015, 01:00:46 PM

At one time Cooks had a VW Diesel option.

Ljohnsaw · November 03, 2015, 09:15:02 PM

Quote from: Magicman on November 03, 2015, 01:00:46 PM
At one time Cooks had a VW Diesel option.

And did it cheat when it knew it was being smog tested

Sorry, couldn't resist :D

redprospector · November 04, 2015, 01:20:51 AM

Quote from: deadfall on November 02, 2015, 12:12:39 AM
I gotta know, were the Copenhagen lids for adjusting the valves?

Yep. Cut the lip off with the pocket knife and it'll get you close enough on the valves, and the points to get you in. ;D

redprospector · November 04, 2015, 01:31:34 AM

Quote from: ladylake on November 03, 2015, 06:14:36 AM
In over 11000 hours my TK B20 with a 6hp gas running the hydraulics on the bed has worked great, I much rather have that than a energy track or electric over hydraulics. I did replace the motor at 6000 hours for $200, I run it about half throttle and it's not hard on the motor. I like that VW motor, how much does it weigh? Steve

Not sure exactly what it weighs, but I'm pretty sure it's heavier now than it was in 97. When I built the mill I pulled the engine from the bug and put it in my truck by myself. I mounted it on the mill by myself too. The last time I had it off the mill I had to have a little help. :D
I'm going to wind up with a separate hydraulic system like you're talking about. I plan on running an over head cable to carry the hoses for the head up and down, and the blade guide. But everything will be operated from the end of the mill.

redprospector · November 04, 2015, 01:42:50 AM

Quote from: pineywoods on November 03, 2015, 09:47:16 AM
Yeah, I thought about the VW motor when the time came for a new power plant. Junked bugs are getting scarce around here. One weakness is the rear main bearing ( ok, it's the front main in the bug). I was concerned about the side loads with a belt drive. That all went out the window when I came across a 25 hp liquid cooled kawasaki V twin at a good price...

There's still lots of junked bugs out here, but the price is going up (like everything else). To get around the ~~rear~~ front main problem I just added a carrier bearing at the end of the shaft that I put on it. It's been working for a long time. ;D

Quote from: Magicman on November 03, 2015, 01:00:46 PM
At one time Cooks had a VW Diesel option.

I bought an old fairway mower from the golf course for the 50 horse Mitsubishi diesel. I got it to replace the VW when it quit. But the Bug won't die. ;)

deadfall · November 04, 2015, 11:39:11 AM

Quote from: redprospector on November 04, 2015, 01:20:51 AM
Quote from: deadfall on November 02, 2015, 12:12:39 AM
I gotta know, were the Copenhagen lids for adjusting the valves?

Yep. Cut the lip off with the pocket knife and it'll get you close enough on the valves, and the points to get you in. ;D

Better so loose you can hear them, than so tight you can smell them. (Old saying.)

sandsawmill14 · November 04, 2015, 06:57:32 PM

i put a cable in the air on my b20 and did away with the cord reel. works good but if/when i have to repair it i will put a pantagraph on it. there should be some pics of it in my gallery

far as engine size the 30 hp electric on our s&w still isnt big enough :D

beenthere · November 04, 2015, 08:40:46 PM

sandsawmill
Would you sort through your pics and post the one you refer to in your post? tks

sandsawmill14 · November 04, 2015, 09:17:33 PM

here is a pic

this one shows the cable and post i added but the head is at the wrong end of mill to see the multiconductor cable a used for the wiring. i just used the screw together cold shut chain links to slide on the cable, the wire just coils/uncoils as the head drags it back and forth. works good but doesnt look as neat as the pantagrph would

i can more pics and MAYBE a short video of it working if anyone wants me to just ask and i will start a thread so we dont hijack this one ;) :D

redprospector · November 04, 2015, 10:48:06 PM

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on November 04, 2015, 09:17:33 PM
here is a pic

this one shows the cable and post i added but the head is at the wrong end of mill to see the multiconductor cable a used for the wiring. i just used the screw together cold shut chain links to slide on the cable, the wire just coils/uncoils as the head drags it back and forth. works good but doesnt look as neat as the pantagrph would
i can more pics and MAYBE a short video of it working if anyone wants me to just ask and i will start a thread so we dont hijack this one ;) :D

Just ask? Ok, I'd like to see please. :D

sandsawmill14 · November 04, 2015, 10:56:39 PM

:D :D :D i just didnt want to hijack the thread ;D got dr app in the morning but if all goes well i will get some pics tomorrow afternoon and a short video of head running back and forth. i have never posted a video but i will give it a try

beenthere · November 04, 2015, 11:40:33 PM

sandsaw
First put your video on YouTube and then put a link in your post to the video on YouTube.

sandsawmill14 · November 05, 2015, 07:56:15 PM

i got the pics put in another thread called cable mod on timberking b20 ;D but cant figure out how to video with my new phone :(

scrout · November 06, 2015, 04:19:00 PM

I have an 18 HP twin on my Linn. One belt, I would go two belts with any more HP.
Also, HF has a 22hp on sale for $700 right now.
Pick up a cheap winch for your carriage power, works pretty well.
Cranking for the sawhead height will get old REAL fast. My acme rods are 5 turns per inch.
The Linn sawhead is a nice design, pretty beefy and easy to mod if you want.