Lifting & Moving logs

[Raphael]

Hi R & LTP,

I like the cheap, cheerfull and by all accounts effective approach that you demonstrate.

The DF log is about the same size that I have in mind to move though probably a bit longer. How do you lift the log onto the bogey ?

I have in the past used short logs as rollers to manually tow bigger logs to a stack but following an operation to correct a hernia I will now need to take much more care not to repeat this type of injury.

Chilterns

How about using a small portable ramp and a Logrite cant hook?

  That was my approach, a couple of wedge like cut offs and a 6' cant hook.  Work at a point about 1/3 of the way down the log and roll it onto one wedge then kick the other under from the opposite side to keep it from rolling back.  Repeat as necessary until the end is high enough to slip the axle under it.  If I've got someone handy to shove wedges for me I'll use a good long crowbar and lift closer to the end.

  I've also made use of a bottle jack and a chunk of fire wood to do roughly the same thing, the trick there is getting enough support under the jack so that the log goes up vs. the jack going down.  ;)

  But ever since buying my Kubota L39 I've been 'ambitiously lazy' and use the backhoe sometimes in combination with a stout piece of chain when the diameter gets beyond the grip of the thumb.

[losttheplot]

Hi R & LTP,


The DF log is about the same size that I have in mind to move though probably a bit longer. How do you lift the log onto the bogey ?



Chilterns

Roll the log over a length of chain then hang it from a high lift jack.
The end hanging from the truck has a wire "come along" around the log and back to its self.

It sounds like you need an Alaskan saw mill.

Where are you located?

[Raphael]

It sounds like you need an Alaskan saw mill.

Where are you located?

Or a Logosol M7, just light enough to carry in by hand and turns out really nice precise beams.

[Chilterns]

Hi Raphael & LTP,

I like the Logrite for picking up and moving the logs and have arranged to see and try one this weekend I also like the Alaskan sawmill attachment which is an excellent idea as both it and the Logosol saw bench both employ a regular heavy duty chainsaw plus ripping chain thereby helping to minimse unecesary investment and maximising the use of existing equipment.

I have also now gone through the Forestry Forum gallery and was pleased to find that this contains much good information on affordable simple ways to deal with and maneouvre logs with out the need for either the investment or use of big heavy equipment.

I came across the Clark Log jack [ http://www.clarkforest.com/shop/chainsaw/log-jack-and-saw-horses/log-jack ] and this appears to be a simple hand held device that can be used to raise the log off the ground for cutting to length.

Chilterns

[Raphael]

  I spent several months reading here (and elsewhere) before deciding to invest in the Logosol M7 and haven't regretted it for a minute, I've since extended the original mill out to 25+ feet.  Its so amazingly precise and versatile that I consider it one of my most essential timber framing tools.  Its ripped all the tapered rafters, 5 sided peak purlins and 3 sided fill timbers for my house.
 The Logosol guarantee saved me big time when my first 066 scored the cylinder after ~15hrs operation.  I told them what was going on with the saw and Logosol sent out a replacement no hassles and no shipping charges either direction.  I love my Stihl saws but they do seem to be prone to the occasional assembly defect.

  That log jack seems like a handy tool, I added the optional (removable) foot to my 6' Logrite peavy so it does the same thing.

[Ironwood]

You know one other yarding "centralizing option" may be the use of a "Gin Pole", using an exsisting tree and a pole in the area where you will work. If this is done well you will NOT damage the tree you are anchored to, and it could be a VERY effective handling method especially if you are already using some sort of winch option.

Ironwood