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Sharpening question

Started by kkcomp, April 14, 2025, 07:36:33 PM

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kkcomp

I always thought that when sharpening you wanted to just kiss the front of the tooth then the gullet then the back. However, I was watching a You Tube video that said to touch the back first. Am I doing it wrong or is the video?
Why is there never time to do it right but always time to do it over?
Rework is the bane of my existence
Norwood HD38 Kubota B3300HSU Honda Rancher many Stihl and Echo saws, JCB 1400b Backhoe

barbender

I don't really understand...if you're doing a full profile grind, you're hitting all of those areas. Tooth face, gullet and back of tooth. 
Too many irons in the fire

thecfarm

Watch out for those youtubers!!!  :wink_2:
I watch a lot of 3pt winch ones. Seem like most put the chain about 4-5 feet back on the log.  :uhoh:
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

kkcomp

Quote from: barbender on April 14, 2025, 08:12:18 PMI don't really understand...if you're doing a full profile grind, you're hitting all of those areas. Tooth face, gullet and back of tooth.
Is there anything other that a full profile grind? I am fairly new to sharpening and as with everything I want to be sure I do it right.
Why is there never time to do it right but always time to do it over?
Rework is the bane of my existence
Norwood HD38 Kubota B3300HSU Honda Rancher many Stihl and Echo saws, JCB 1400b Backhoe

Brian_Rhoad


Bradm

Quote from: kkcomp on April 14, 2025, 08:25:36 PM
Quote from: barbender on April 14, 2025, 08:12:18 PMI don't really understand...if you're doing a full profile grind, you're hitting all of those areas. Tooth face, gullet and back of tooth.
Is there anything other that a full profile grind? I am fairly new to sharpening and as with everything I want to be sure I do it right.
What type of grinder do you have?  Drag or plunge?  A plunge grinder will grind the full profile at one time; a drag grinder will grind the face and as it indexes to the next tooth the wheel will drag across the gullet and the back of the tooth.

barbender

No. If you want to maintain the profile of the blade, you have to take equal amounts off everywhere. I'm not familiar with the video you're referencing. 

I only have one cam for my Cooks sharpener, for the WM 7/39 Turbo. I've had people ask me to sharpen 10° blades, which have a much shallower gullet. To achieve this with my cam, I make a round doing the light "kiss" on the tooth face, down to the base of the tooth. And that is all, all the way around. Then, I adjust it so it hits the back of the tooth for another round. I'm not doing this because it's the best way, but only as a compromise- it's the only way my machine can sharpen these blades as it's configured. I'm not buying a near $200 cam for the $100 of custom sharpening I do each year😊

The blades cut well, the customers were happy. But, I am not maintaining the whole profile, and that means the tooth would get shorter every time I sharpen them.
Too many irons in the fire

Big_eddy

Excuse the dumb question, but why touch the back of the tooth? 
(I've never sharpened a saw band)

SawyerTed

The tip of the tooth needs to be pointed sharply.  It's really the business part of the cutting.   In use the tip wears down and gets ever so slightly rounded or if used too long the tip gets noticeably rounded

Touching the face and the back of the tooth restores that sharp point.  
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

YellowHammer

As the guys sat, the entire band profile needs to be ground.  The face and back to sharpen the tooth flat and chisel corners and then the gullet to remove gullet fractures.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

KenMac

According to Cook's Saw Mfg. owner both sides oftip need grinding to keep all teeth at the same height so they all do equal work.
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

customsawyer

Quote from: Big_eddy on April 15, 2025, 01:22:19 PMExcuse the dumb question, but why touch the back of the tooth?
(I've never sharpened a saw band)
The easiest way to explain it. Do you sharpen just one side of your pocket knife?
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

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