Starting a build on a firewood processor with my father for our homes and likely a little on the side. I'll try to document the build here to help others since I appreciate having the forum available for help. Thanks to blackfootgriz for his help so far.
The start
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Starting the splitter
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Looks like a good start.
Where did you find the hourglass rolls?
It's atypical, but I don't use gripper nubs on the push plates. It seems to allow the block to 'flow' better through both the 6 and 4way wedges.
Thanks. We found the hourglass rolls on Craigslist. I've been debating the nubs on the pushplate, it seems like most of the big splitters have them
Tubing makes for a good looking fab job.Is all your welding being done with the pictured Hobart?
I think the nubs are there mostly because prospective buyers expect them to be.
If the plate is smooth, the tail end of the block can 'skate' across the pusher surface as it moves through the wedges. Seems like it puts less stress on the machine.
Then again, I'm not splitting corkscrews and crotch wood.
Grippers can be useful when the wedge moves through the block as with typical horizontal/vertical splitters, especially when the saw hand can't buck perpendicular to the log.
Did they have any more of those rollers, or just the two? I'd like to add one to the end of my infeed trough.
Quote from: mjeselskis on November 10, 2015, 05:24:31 AM
Thanks. We found the hourglass rolls on Craigslist.
I wish Craigslist in my area had useful stuff like that instead of worn out furniture and broken appliances.
Processor looks good so far. Will you have a stand-alone conveyor?
Looking good so far!
Quote from: mjeselskis on November 10, 2015, 05:24:31 AM
Thanks. We found the hourglass rolls on Craigslist. I've been debating the nubs on the pushplate, it seems like most of the big splitters have them
Placed just right, those nubs can put your "brand" in the ends of the firewood splits.
I'm using the Hobart for the 1/4" and under but it's only a 210 amp and doesn't have enough power for good penetration on the big stuff without a lot of careful fitting and beveling. I used the Hobart for some of the thicker stuff, but I have a Miller AC/DC stick machine that I'm using for the heavier stuff now.
I have a standalone conveyor, but it needs an axle and a way to elevate it.
We bought 5 of the hourglass rolls but we'll be using all of them. The guy we bought them from did have more but they were in a fully functional log conveyor. I'll PM you his number if I can find it. We bought them a year ago when we saw then since we knew we wouldn't find them again.
Placed just right, those nubs can put your "brand" in the ends of the firewood splits.
[/quote]
That's why mine are distinctive.
Nice start on your build, mjeselskis.
Had a little bit of time tonight so started working on the saw. Bearings and shaft should be here Friday for the saw pivot.
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MJ-
Is it just an optical illusion? It looks like the hydro ram stroke is too long for the current pushplate-->wedge setup.
Hope it is just my bad!
Looks like the motor, bushing and sprocket worked as you planned. Did you go with a 13 or 14 tooth sprocket?
Quote from: blackfoot griz on November 12, 2015, 05:02:44 PM
MJ-
Is it just an optical illusion? It looks like the hydro ram stroke is too long for the current pushplate-->wedge setup.
Hope it is just my bad!
Looks like the motor, bushing and sprocket worked as you planned. Did you go with a 13 or 14 tooth sprocket?
It must be an optical illusion, the stroke is 24" and there is 25" between the push plate and the wedge.
The motor, sprocket, and bushing came together very well, thanks. I went with the 14 tooth sprocket, we'll see how it works.
Found your build, looking good so far! Kind of odd that we both used Vermeer's for mini skidders and now are both turning Jacobsen's into processors lol great minds think alike! Hurry and get this done!
The race is on. :D :D
Looks like mjeselskis has a bit of a head start.
popcorn_smiley home built, entertainment at it's best!
Quote from: lopet on November 15, 2015, 08:44:26 AM
The race is on. :D :D
Looks like mjeselskis has a bit of a head start.
A big head start on his processor but mine has been able to split wood for months! Lol last winter I built a splitter attachment for it.
A little more work done today
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Looking really nice!
subscribed
what western ME town?
Quote from: 711ac on November 16, 2015, 08:36:46 PM
subscribed
what western ME town?
I'm near Rumford.
I've got a hydraulic question for those with more experience. Snowstorm brought up a concern on my hydraulic plan in another thread.
My saw motor will be driven from a variable displacement piston pump that ran the hydrostatic drive motors on the donor machine. I will use mechanical linkage to control the flow out of the pump once the bar starts moving out of its parked position.
The bar movement will be controlled with a simple, two way cylinder and single spool valve.
My concern is that there is no feedback from the saw motor pump pressure to the saw bar movement cylinder. I could apply to much pressure to the bar and put to much strain on the saw motor pump.
I'm envisioning a flow control valve that varies based on pilot pressure of some sort. I'd like to be able to feed the saw motor circuit pressure into it to control the max flow available to the saw cylinder. Keep in mind that the saw motor and saw cylinder run on two different pumps.
Is there such a thing? Thoughts? Suggestions?
Not familiar with your particular saw drive motor, but would it not be simple enough to set up the saw advance with a flow control and independent adjustable relief, and then run it to see if the more complicated scheme is warranted?
After a fashion, you'll probably be able to find the ideal feed rate by 'feel'.
FWIW, the Multitek processor one town over incorporates a single-acting cylinder with spring return for saw feed.
subscribed
Quote from: mjeselskis on November 17, 2015, 09:40:15 PM
Quote from: 711ac on November 16, 2015, 08:36:46 PM
subscribed
what western ME town?
I'm near Rumford.
I've got a hydraulic question for those with more experience. Snowstorm brought up a concern on my hydraulic plan in another thread.
My saw motor will be driven from a variable displacement piston pump that ran the hydrostatic drive motors on the donor machine. I will use mechanical linkage to control the flow out of the pump once the bar starts moving out of its parked position.
The bar movement will be controlled with a simple, two way cylinder and single spool valve.
My concern is that there is no feedback from the saw motor pump pressure to the saw bar movement cylinder. I could apply to much pressure to the bar and put to much strain on the saw motor pump.
I'm envisioning a flow control valve that varies based on pilot pressure of some sort. I'd like to be able to feed the saw motor circuit pressure into it to control the max flow available to the saw cylinder. Keep in mind that the saw motor and saw cylinder run on two different pumps.
Is there such a thing? Thoughts? Suggestions?
why run 2 pumps for the saw and the saw cyl? if using a load senseing pump and valves it could run bolth. control the saw cyl with the pressure relief valve. you dont need a big cyl for the saw. my keto ctl head dose it this way. it works very well . a saw cyl with a 1/2 to 3/4" rod is big enought. piston pumps are great but more complex. with load sense line and standby pressure. you need to really do your homework. if you could find a cheap or parted out ctl head. you would have the saw motor mount saw cyl all you would need ready to bolt on
Quote from: snowstorm on November 18, 2015, 08:02:01 AM
Quote from: mjeselskis on November 17, 2015, 09:40:15 PM
Quote from: 711ac on November 16, 2015, 08:36:46 PM
subscribed
what western ME town?
I'm near Rumford.
I've got a hydraulic question for those with more experience. Snowstorm brought up a concern on my hydraulic plan in another thread.
why run 2 pumps for the saw and the saw cyl? if using a load senseing pump and valves it could run bolth. control the saw cyl with the pressure relief valve. you dont need a big cyl for the saw. my keto ctl head dose it this way. it works very well . a saw cyl with a 1/2 to 3/4" rod is big enought. piston pumps are great but more complex. with load sense line and standby pressure. you need to really do your homework. if you could find a cheap or parted out ctl head. you would have the saw motor mount saw cyl all you would need ready to bolt on
Running two pumps because I have them from the donor and pumps are expensive. I'll have to dig out my hydraulics textbook from college and see what I can figure out. I do like your idea snowstorm if I was buying all new equipment. I do need to do my homework on the piston pump, as I don't fully understand why there are so many ports on the pump compared to a gear pump.
how many ports? one to tank one pressure and one or more load sense
5 ports. It's from a hydrostatic application so two go to the motor. One looks a suction line due to the fitting. Not sure what the other two are for. One maybe relief back to the tank?
It's an Eaton 70145 pump
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Did some more digging. It appears there is a charge pump to bring oil from the tank, makes sense. Does a charge pump have a discharge line?
In the first picture, from left to right. It's case drain, pressure line, and charge pump suction line. In the second picture, the big one is obviously the other pressure line, and I'm wondering if the smaller one is the charge pump discharge line?
top picture what is that shaft on the left with the plate with 2 screws? did that control the speed of the mower? i dont see a controller on that pump that would also have the pressure relief and load sense. you may be better off using open center gear pumps. that would keep it simple and less expensive
The shaft controls the motor flow. It's not a pressure compensated pump. I plan to control the flow with mechanical linkage based on the bar position. It is different, but in some ways simpler since there are no valves to control the flow to the saw motor.
Almost done the splitter end done, just need to add some flat bar for the grate and get everything all welded up. Got the rolls in rough position and got the engine degreased and set in rough position as well.
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Nice job
make sure that you have an guide system (log stopper to desired seize)
An that the Guide is fixed (not a chain) and gives some loose to your piece of wood once start cutting (So wood will not stoke between guide and chain bar)
It's also fun to have an automatic engagement of the splitter (once you down cuting) to save time and not have to start the spliting proces by hand on each peace of wood
I am in the wood processor business (sold 30 this year) So if you need some advice or pictures... please send me an PM
THEO
Quote from: Theo on November 29, 2015, 05:12:51 PM
Nice job
make sure that you have an guide system (log stopper to desired seize)
An that the Guide is fixed (not a chain) and gives some loose to your piece of wood once start cutting (So wood will not stoke between guide and chain bar)
It's also fun to have an automatic engagement of the splitter (once you down cuting) to save time and not have to start the spliting proces by hand on each peace of wood
I am in the wood processor business (sold 30 this year) So if you need some advice or pictures... please send me an PM
THEO
Thanks Theo,
I'd be interested in pictures of the log stop you mentioned. I'd planned to just use chain like most of the others I'd seen.
The 2 big disadvantage of a chain
-1 is that it always moves (vibration of the machine)
not easy to keep the length from one piece to an other
- 2 With an chain you have to do an visual stop, while a fixed guide is a physical stop (log can not go further)
at the end of the day it can make an diference on the time saved
Theo
Quote from: Theo on December 02, 2015, 07:21:19 PM
The 2 big disadvantage of a chain
-1 is that it always moves (vibration of the machine)
not easy to keep the length from one piece to an other
- 2 With an chain you have to do an visual stop, while a fixed guide is a physical stop (log can not go further)
at the end of the day it can make an diference on the time saved
Theo
How about a fixed, solid stop? Would it affect how the cut off piece falls? Why does it need to be retractable? Thinking a piece of 2" square tube would make a solid stop.
If your stop doesn't give away when you're cutting, your bar and chain will bind when the block starts to brake off.
Mine is t ed off the saw arm and gets out off the road when the bar comes down. They both return on air pressure.
Just to give you a idea.
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Quote from: Theo on November 29, 2015, 05:12:51 PM
Nice job
make sure that you have an guide system (log stopper to desired seize)
An that the Guide is fixed (not a chain) and gives some loose to your piece of wood once start cutting (So wood will not stoke between guide and chain bar)
It's also fun to have an automatic engagement of the splitter (once you down cuting) to save time and not have to start the spliting proces by hand on each peace of wood
I am in the wood processor business (sold 30 this year) So if you need some advice or pictures... please send me an PM
THEO
Theo sent me some pics to show the log stop
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I went back, but still couldn't find it...? What are you using for an engine?
The fifth one is most likely auxiliary charge pressure port and would probably be plugged in your application. A pressure reduction valve drawing off the saw motor flow could be used for bar down pressure eliminating an extra function, but you may already be on to that one.
Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on December 09, 2015, 10:30:10 AM
I went back, but still couldn't find it...? What are you using for an engine?
The engine is a Kohler D1105 rated at 25hp
Nice! Thank you. I will be following your build!
It's been slow going over the past few weeks, but the splitter is finished, the engine is mounted, and we're starting to work on the clamp. We need to buy a hydraulic tank for it, but I'm debating the size. I'd like to gather some opinions, is 10 gallon enough, 15? 20? The tank on the donor was only around 5 gallons
I'll see if I can get some updated pics this weekend
MJ,
Is there a hydro cooler from the donor machine? If not, on your new tank, bigger is better IMO. It appears that you will have more functions going on with the processor than what the original machine had. This could well equate to greater heat build up. My processor runs off a 38 HP gas engine that runs @2400 rpm. With a 40 gallon tank my hydro temperature has hit 160 on a hot day running hard. If my tank was only 20 gallons I would have a heat problem without a cooler. Again, just my opinion, but if space and weight aren't a huge concern, I would go with a larger hydro tank without a cooler.
Any updated pics??
There is a hydro cooler, about 8" x14". I'll get a picture of it later.
Latest pics.
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Can you verify if the cooler runs full-time or only when needed? Just curious with you living in Maine and running it in the cold, you would probably only want it to kick in when needed.
Quote from: blackfoot griz on January 16, 2016, 12:49:48 PM
Can you verify if the cooler runs full-time or only when needed? Just curious with you living in Maine and running it in the cold, you would probably only want it to kick in when needed.
The cooler is right behind the radiator, so it gets air through it whenever the fan us spinning.
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There is a tag on it, I need to see if I can find out what it's rated for. I'm not sure how hydraulic coolers are sized.
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After we got the pump mounted today, we got the clamp fabbed up.
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I'm leaning toward a 25 gallon reservoir with the cooler on the suction line to the pumps. I've checked the specs on quite a few commercial processors (dyna and hudson) and they all seem to be about 1 gallon of reservoir per engine HP.
^You might be better off with the cooler on a return circuit, rather than on the suction line. I've got mine on the (circle) saw return, as that function generates the most heat.
General rule on reservoir volume is 1-1.5xgpm, depending on load. Would not go by the capacity of 'budget' machines. They're constrained by price point/market segment, and that means compromise.
Quote from: North River Energy on January 18, 2016, 08:16:57 PM
^You might be better off with the cooler on a return circuit, rather than on the suction line. I've got mine on the (circle) saw return, as that function generates the most heat.
General rule on reservoir volume is 1-1.5xgpm, depending on load. Would not go by the capacity of 'budget' machines. They're constrained by price point/market segment, and that means compromise.
Thanks for the advice. Putting it on the return line makes sense. Is the 1 - 1.5 x GPM "rule" with a cooler or without?
Any reason I can't dump the return of all the pumps through the cooler? The saw motor won't be dumping much back to the tank due to its design ( closed loop hydrostatic pump).
It's one of those recurring statements that you see if you spend too much time reading about hydraulic systems on the internet. :) If all pumps and functions were running constantly and at capacity, you'd probably want a larger reservoir than if the 'work' was more intermittent.
Cooler use/capacity is again determined by how much 'work' is being done by the system. If the flow capacity of your cooler is greater than the gpm of your system, you can probably err on the side of a smaller reservoir.
I had a heating problem on my small splitter, and resolved it by using an oversized return filter and larger hose/fittings throughout.
I have another question for those that are better with hydraulics. I am looking for a way to prevent the Infeed rolls from advancing if I accidentally bump the lever while I am in the middle of sawing. I was thinking something like a pilot operated valve that would close when pressure was applied from the saw and clamp cylinder circuit. I can't seem to find anything like what I'm looking for. All the pilot operated valves I can find are ones that open when the pilot pressure is applied.
Any ideas?
My valve stack allows for each lever to be mounted either upright or hanging (with the body mounted level/horizontal). The infeed lever hangs below the rest of the levers, where it's out of the way of the other functions.
Quote from: North River Energy on January 30, 2016, 06:06:37 PM
My valve stack allows for each lever to be mounted either upright or hanging (with the body mounted level/horizontal). The infeed lever hangs below the rest of the levers, where it's out of the way of the other functions.
Thanks, that may work. I was looking at a way to make it fool-proof just in case
Quote from: mjeselskis on January 30, 2016, 05:32:22 PM
I have another question for those that are better with hydraulics. I am looking for a way to prevent the Infeed rolls from advancing if I accidentally bump the lever while I am in the middle of sawing. I was thinking something like a pilot operated valve that would close when pressure was applied from the saw and clamp cylinder circuit. I can't seem to find anything like what I'm looking for. All the pilot operated valves I can find are ones that open when the pilot pressure is applied.
Any ideas?
If the log is clamped and you accidentally bump the log advance, the clamp should prevent a major problem. On my machine, if I tried to advance the log while cutting, the drag chain would slip due to the log being clamped.
If you are using your right hand to advance the log be sure you have to move and use your right hand to operate the clamp/saw function.
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The log advance lever is right next to the cutting/clamping control and I have not had a problem with accidentally bumping the log while cutting. Once the log is where I want it, my right hand moves to the cut lever. The only control my left hand operates is the splitting levers.
Once you get the hang of running your controls, it shouldn't be a problem.
On my machine the clamp, saw arm function and the saw motor are all on one control lever. To make a cut I have to hang on to it until the cut is completed. I am right handed and my splitter valve is on the left. I can't see making another move accidentally during the cutting cycle other than activate the splitter. What I have done is advancing the log before the saw has retracted completely, but only twice. ;D
If you are really worried you can make the control levers at different length or put a different knob or grip on it and with some time you get the feel for what control is for what function.
Very good build .I build a wood splitter a couple of years ago and seeing your build it would be nice to make a processor .Would it be possible to get a the measurements of the pictures in your first post (The Start) I also live in Pembroke Ontario .Thanks Peter
Quote from: firefighter on February 14, 2016, 09:34:13 AM
Very good build .I build a wood splitter a couple of years ago and seeing your build it would be nice to make a processor .Would it be possible to get a the measurements of the pictures in your first post (The Start) I also live in Pembroke Ontario .Thanks Peter
Thanks.
The infeed deck (where the rolls are mounted) is 12' long and about 33" wide. It sits 18" above the main frame. The other side of the frame is about 26" wide to make the width of the unit 60" to match the leaf springs on the axle.
I am starting to get some of the material for the processor build I was wondering what size of square tubing did you use on your build ? I was thinking three inch or would 2.5 by 2.5 and .250 wall be okay or is three inch better. Do you happen to have a drawing of the chain saw set up you built ,I wanted to use a 20 inch bar . . I looked at the 6k products but with the way the Canadian dollar is it would be very expensive . Do you have any more on your build at this time .Thanks Peter
An easy way to do the cooler is to bypass it on the big return line then put a tee in the line with a small restriction and the oil will flow through the cooler back to the tank and most of the oil will return via the big line .
Quote from: Gearbox on March 10, 2016, 08:41:28 PM
An easy way to do the cooler is to bypass it on the big return line then put a tee in the line with a small restriction and the oil will flow through the cooler back to the tank and most of the oil will return via the big line .
Firefighter, the top tubing is 2" x2" x 1/4" wall and the bottom is 2" x4" x1/4 wall. It seems like it will be very strong.
Gearbox, would you recommend putting the filter on the same bypass line as the cooler?
Some updated pics below. We're getting ready to start fabbing up some hard lines for the hydraulics. The hard lines will be oversized at 1" sched 80, but hoping it will help with heat buildup.
The panel with the hydraulic valves will have a few gauges and all the engine controls. The 5 valve control will run the saw/clamp, 4 way wedge, infeed rolls, and lift/tilt the future infeed deck. There is also a spare (for now) detent circuit for a conveyor in the future. The 2 handle valve is a Prince auto cycle for the splitter.
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Hi how is the build going ? I could not find any hour glass rollers so I will try and make some . I made a trial one only 12 inches long and 5 inches round I saw it on another forum but I will have to make them longer and the two round parts bigger ,how long are yours and what is the diameter of the round parts? Did you happen to get your 5 lever control valve from Surplus Centre would you have a model number and who makes it . Thanks Peter
Hoping to see some updates on this thing! I'm still planning mine but it's probably going to be this next winter before I get going on it. I got busy with other stuff and I also need to get a replacement mower before I can cannibalize mine for this build. It's also going to require some parts off of my other main splitter so I need to get a ton of wood split before I can start also.
Hope you've been able to get it finished and just too busy using it to post updates :-D
Unfortunately, not much for updates. We got the fuel tank and pump hooked up and fired up the engine the other day. Now we need to run all the wiring and make up some hydraulic hoses. It's probably going to be slow going for a while now that spring is here. I'm trying to finish a small barn and we just bought a house to flip so the processor won't be priority for a few months. I'll make sure to post updates as they happen though.
Sorry I missed your post .No you need the filter befor the bypass cooler . If you put it after the cooler as the filter plugs you will get less and less flow . after the tee will add flow to the cooler as filter plugs . PM me if you need help with this .
Impressive! How big of wood is it designed to handle? I built my own outa an old JD combine a couple years back, needs improving, yours looks awsome!
We're back at it and making some progress. Hydraulics are 95% plumbed and we got it painted a couple weeks ago. Just a little wiring and a few odds and ends and it will be ready to try it out. I'll work on getting some me pictures this week, but I do have a question for those with hydraulic experience.
What's the best way to flush the system without damaging any components with any junk in the line? I've thought about trying to hook up an auxiliary pump and bypassing all the cylinders to flush the lines, but I don't know if it's overkill. Should I bother or just fill up the tank and run it and change the filter after an hour?
Still hoping for a little help on flushing hydraulics if anyone has some experience to share on new systems
Here's a few new pictures. Most of the hoses are back on, and almost ready to wire it up.
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Nice paint job and great to see you are almost done . Will be waiting for you video.
Looking good!
Can't wait to see it in action!
PROGRESS!!
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^Oh, that's gotta feel good.
Does everything work as planned, or do you still have bugs to splat?
Quote from: North River Energy on July 15, 2017, 08:13:07 PM
^Oh, that's gotta feel good.
Does everything work as planned, or do you still have bugs to splat?
We've had to squash a few bugs already but we're getting it dialed in. The first bug was the original clamp design didn't hold the wood well enough and the log would move and bind the bar.
The new clamp design is 9" wide and hold great.
The rest of the tweaking has been mostly related to the flow control and relief valve for the saw cylinder to get the right function and not stick the chain.
It turns out that poplar (Aspen) has been the most difficult wood to cut. It's soft enough that the chain wants to catch and make the saw bounce and even stall the saw motor a few times. Oak, Maple, and Birch all cut much better.
I'm sure there will be more bugs, but that comes with building from scratch.
Processor looks great. Judging from the pile of wood you have processed it is not running too bad. Keep the pictures coming. Are you using a gear motor on the saw?
Yes, we're using a danfoss m077yc gear motor. We ran it for a few hours yesterday when it was about 85 degrees and the hydraulic oil maxed out at 135 so the cooler is working very well.
The relief valve on the pump for saw is set pretty low and opens around 1500 so we stalled the saw a couple times in the Aspen when we were tuning the feed speed and still had air in the saw cylinder so it was bouncy.
Overall, very happy with the first run.
Actually, the second run... we tried it out last weekend and about 1/2 cord into it we found out that the ramp down to the splitter was to close to the saw... A crooked log twisted when we released the clamp and the saw cut into the 1/2" steel plate. A little cutting on the plate and it was all better
Nice to see you have it running and with only a few bugs . When ever you have a clip of it running it will be great to see it in action . Again great job .
How wide was the original log clamp, and what is the distance from the saw bar, and also the end of the infeed 'platform'.
Not a fan of Poplar. I like pickles, but not that much.
mjeselskis it looks great! 8)
Quote from: North River Energy on July 17, 2017, 08:34:49 PM
How wide was the original log clamp, and what is the distance from the saw bar, and also the end of the infeed 'platform'.
Not a fan of Poplar. I like pickles, but not that much.
The original clamp was just a solid piece of 1" plate with teeth cut into it. It's about 12" from the saw. We added 3"X4" angle iron to the side of the 1" plate and cut teeth into that so now the clamp is 9" wide and it straddles the last hourglass roll
Quotenow the clamp is 9" wide and it straddles the last hourglass roll
Ok, that makes sense. I can see how the end roll could form a pivot with your original configuration. I've got a single finger clamp of similar dimension to what you had, but it's clamping against parallel infeed chains.
I have a 1 in steel clamp on my homebuilt processor and have the same problem. If you could post a picture of the angle you welded on. I am always looking for new ideas.
Quote from: hedgerow on July 18, 2017, 07:51:12 PM
I have a 1 in steel clamp on my homebuilt processor and have the same problem. If you could post a picture of the angle you welded on. I am always looking for new ideas.
Here's a picture of the clamp now. The angle iron sits about 1/2" lower than the middle steel piece.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170721_141524308.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1500685726)
After the first run, we realized we needed a hookaroon. After the second run, we realized we needed a convenient place to mount it. A couple of 1.5" conduit clips on the side of the control panel hold it quite well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170721_141510502.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1500685720)
Looks good your new clamp can you tell me how wide is itand is it two pieces welded to your old one? Did your splitting wedge give you any problems ? When will you have a video of it splitting wood ? I am looking forward to seeing it run.
I missed you reply on the clamp on the previous page thanks for the info.
The wedge works very well. Occasionally a tough piece will kick out the autocycle valve and it will start retracting, but I just have to hold the lever and it will push right through. I haven't even hit the second stage of the pump yet.
I'll try to figure out how to get a video up soon. My phone is on the way out and I don't have a YouTube account yet.
Looks good!! I'm glad it's all working out for you.
I'm looking for ideas to keep the rounds centered on the splitter so the hit the wedge in the center. Right now I pretty much have to guide each one to the center of the wedge. I could just let it choose it's own path but then I end up with a fat side and slivers off the other side on small pieces
Have you got a photo of the end view of the push plate, and also the trough?
As if you were looking back 'upstream' from the table grating.
mjeselskis
Thanks for the picture of the clamp add on. I think a couple pieces like that on mind will help hold the short ends.
Quote from: North River Energy on July 22, 2017, 07:30:06 PM
Have you got a photo of the end view of the push plate, and also the trough?
As if you were looking back 'upstream' from the table grating.
Here's a couple from either end.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20160103_155840229.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1500776584)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170510_194453925_HDR~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1500776683)
That helps. In short, you want to have the lower sides of the push plate cut away (notched) so the bottom edges of the trough hang inside the top of the splitter beam.
I'll try to get a photo of how mine are set up tomorrow afternoonish.
Just wondering North River Energy if you ever sent the photo of your push plate and mjeselskis have you made a video of your processor in action .I know it is a busy time summer for ever body .I just want to see it in action Thanks.
Firefighter,
I sent the photo via direct email.
If you look carefully, you can catch a glimpse of the cutouts on the push plate.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n24MWzFJuoQ
Mjeselskis
I have that same problem with my homemade processor with getting the cut rounds to center up on the splitter. Have saw a few homemade ones that use bushes on the sides to help with centering. Don't know if they would last. The wood I cut varies in size a lot so making a centering system is hard
Eric,
What length wood can you run through your processor, those blocks looked a bit longer than than 16 or 18?
^Good eye. Those were 20" for an outdoor boiler.
I can set the machine for 12" to 22", in 2" increments.
Thanks North River Energy I saw it in the video like you said .
That processor rocks! 8)
NorthRiver,
That processor is awesome.
I haven't got a good video yet since the camera on my cell phone stopped working. I cut another cord or so this weekend, and it took about 3 hours, but there was a lot of 2-3" tops that took a lot of extra handling. Even if it's not fast, it sure is nice to not have to climb the pile with a chainsaw and handle every piece to get it on the splitter like I used to.
I'll see if I can figure out a way to get a video soon.
Thank you.
It's been a good learning experience for sure.
I tend to run the smaller stock through a cordwood buzz saw.
Seems more cost effective in terms of fuel usage and machine wear?
Finally got a short video. It's still slower than it could be because of the low relief valve setting on the saw motor, but I've put about 6 cords through it and it does ok up to about 12".
https://youtu.be/T_596t6XbfQ
That looks respectable. Can you up the pressure on the saw drive, or are you already at the margins?
The pump has a cartridge relief valve built into it that is supposed to be at 3000psi, but it's going at 1500 instead. It's easy to replace if I can find a new one.
Even getting another 500-1000psi would certainly be much better.
The flow control for my saw motor had a built-in relief that blew off way too soon, so I added enough washers to the spring to bind the coils, then added an adjustable stand-alone valve upstream of the flow control.
That might not work for your situation, however.
Meanwhile, assuming you have a pressure gauge on the circuit, you could shim the spring and see if that helps?
Nice video and congrats on the great job you did.One question did you build the conveyor?Again great job.
Would it be possible to get a couple pictures of the completed processor . Could you also send a picture of the part for the length the round is to be cut thanks Peter
Yeah, looking good. The saw might be a issue, but what makes you think it's a pressure problem ?
Saw motor could be at it's limit or pump only puts out so many gallons. Just sayn.
The saw motor speed is good, so the gpm from the pump is fine. It cuts great in smaller wood (less than 8"). I have a pressure gauge on the supply line to the pump and when I stall the chain, the gauge is only reading 1500psi and the relief valve on the pump is stamped 3000psi so I'm pretty sure the spring is weak and it's lifting early. The relief valve is a cartridge and it's self contained so I can't shim it. I'll post a picture of it later when I get some pictures for firefighter.
Hi mjeselskis:
Very impressed with your build. Nice post all around. Great work. Keep the updates coming!
jmur1
Very nice! It's much better to move handles than the alternative of cutting with a saw, moving wood to the splitter etc etc. Nice job! I am jealous. 8)
Quote from: firefighter on September 02, 2017, 09:58:37 PM
Would it be possible to get a couple pictures of the completed processor . Could you also send a picture of the part for the length the round is to be cut thanks Peter
Firefighter,
Here's a few pictures. The log stop is 2" square tube and it slides into a receiver tube that I got on Amazon. The stop is drilled and pinned for different length firewood.
I got the conveyor as scrap from the paper mill up the road and added the legs and axle since it was horizontal in the mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170907_121222220_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504800880)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170907_121248023_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504800889)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170907_112705574.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504800517)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/24804/IMG_20170907_112723796.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504800524)
Nice pictures, thanks.
Do you notice any problems with the saw binding towards the last of the cut because of the solid stop? I do like the idea of a solid stop over a chain or antenna though.
Keep us in the loop as it progresses :)
Again, nice job 8)
I like the solid stop. It's nice to have a good stop when advancing the log, its easy to get the right length without fussing with it. 95% of the time, the wood falls down without binding but there have been a few times when the piece hangs up and the saw kinds of cuts on the up stroke until the piece falls. It's not enough to make me think about changing it.
thanks for the pictures they are great.
Mike,
I'm glad to see that thing run...it's been a long time in coming for you! Can you start a new cut as your splitter cylinder is retracting? That would speed things up a tad. Great build!
Quote from: blackfoot griz on September 10, 2017, 10:48:33 PM
Mike,
I'm glad to see that thing run...it's been a long time in coming for you! Can you start a new cut as your splitter cylinder is retracting? That would speed things up a tad. Great build!
Thanks, I appreciate all your help. I can start a new cut while the splitter is retracting, but I'm usually the slow link in the process.
Great job on the build project. Very impressive!!!