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Bandsaw blade dipping?

Started by ray299, July 06, 2016, 10:17:37 AM

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Ox

I take tension off every day to make sure I don't get flat spots in the belts on the bandwheels.  I'm sure if you had steel bandwheels it would be OK.  Like Kbeitz said, to each his own.  Try both ways and see what you like most I guess!  Everybody giving you suggestions here so far is spot on and I have nothing else to add so I'll just be quiet for a bit.  I'm glad others have jumped on board.  :)
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Quote from: Chuck White on July 07, 2016, 08:29:46 AM
Leaving the bands on overnight isn't the best thing for the longevity of them, or the band-wheel bearings.

The bands will stretch and they will be exposed to the weather (assuming the mill is outside)!

Your bands will RUST too!

Hey... I think I went past your house the other day...
I seen that you had your truck jacked up off all four wheels.
i guess you wanted to get the weight off your bearings...

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

tnaz


ray299

OK so I milled another couple logs... first I went to the salvage yard and got a sweet deal on four scissor jacks... $5 for all! So now I have 8 jacks total. Two in front, two in rear and two in front of leaf springs and two just to the rear of springs. This is only a 15 ft trailer to that should be good! But nope... milling 11 ft logs... twice all four sides the blade dipped down like the first foot, then cut about a 1/2" lower until I got to the end and then it dipped back up about a foot from the end. I'm going to try cutting shorter logs.tomorrow and see.what it does....
Oh, I also looked at my guides, they tight but.i did notice one bearing on the adjustable side (lower bearing) was not straight.... meaning it was pointing down so as the blade rolled through the back of the blade as tight but the front part had about .010 space so the blade does have the option to tilt in that guide only... but it's the exiting guide. I don't see how that would affect anything...

york

Hey Kevin,i am going to ask my friend @ Wagner lumber if they back off there Bands..

Albert

Ga Mtn Man

I wonder  how your blade knows it's about a foot from the end of the log on every cut. ???
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

ladylake

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on July 07, 2016, 09:15:16 PM
I wonder  how your blade knows it's about a foot from the end of the log on every cut. ???

  That's a good question, if it was a 12 foot log would it still be a foot from the end.  Could be the blade is diving when sawing faster and he is slowing up the cutting speed right at the end allowing it to come back up.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ray299

Quote from: ladylake on July 08, 2016, 04:51:33 AM
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on July 07, 2016, 09:15:16 PM
I wonder  how your blade knows it's about a foot from the end of the log on every cut. ???

  That's a good question, if it was a 12 foot log would it still be a foot from the end.  Could be the blade is diving when sawing faster and he is slowing up the cutting speed right at the end allowing it to come back up.   Steve
That's exactly what I was thinking... I start the cut slow and finish slow... I just have to figure out why the blade would dip under pressure. Would tracking on the tire cause it to do that? Currently the blade is tracking a bit on the rear side on the tire giving it a downward tilt but I thought the guides would hold it straight... unless the guides have a downward tilt too? Going to play with tracking today...

york

Looked at your build pictures and looks like the Band guide supports are a bit long-grab them and see if they flex-are they at least 3/16 wall ???
Albert

Ox

Try doing a whole slice slowly.  As slow as when you start or finish.  Try a brand new blade as well.  Your guides might have something to do with it as well.  You're starting to narrow it down.  I didn't realize you were speeding up in the middle of the cut or I wouldn't have suggested frame flex.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

ray299

Quote from: york on July 08, 2016, 07:10:54 AM
Looked at your build pictures and looks like the Band guide supports are a bit long-grab them and see if they flex-are they at least 3/16 wall ???
No they are real thin... I'll bet you your right about them flexing. Ugh... just checked... they do flex fairly easy when I pull on them... good call I think. Looks like next week will have saw guides on the agenda
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42965/IMG_20160708_080846277.jpg

ray299

Quote from: Ox on July 08, 2016, 07:59:24 AM
Try doing a whole slice slowly.  As slow as when you start or finish.  Try a brand new blade as well.  Your guides might have something to do with it as well.  You're starting to narrow it down.  I didn't realize you were speeding up in the middle of the cut or I wouldn't have suggested frame flex.
I'm sure I needed more support anyway. Going to test slow cutting today and leave tracking alone if I can. Thanks for the help everyone. Ill keep you posted next week when I get back to the shop and make new guides

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