Hi,
I co own a Turner sawmill with a guy who has had it for a few years (i sawed my whole house plus a few years back, it owes me nothing) and went to pick it up today and noticed my trailer deck is a little tender. While I have the mill, I suppose I should make myself a new deck. My flatbed dump truck could use a little TLC too.
I have some recently cut hemlock i was going to mill up for a pavilion project and some white pine for my mudroom. I also have some big quaking aspen on my property and a few suitable oaks and possibly some ash.
Of those species, what would be the best trailer decking?
Thanks.
Dave
We use WHITE OAK on the farm for trailer decking.
Also, it you have any Black Locust, it will do very well.
I second White oak! Tim
White oak is best then red oak,ash will do even the hemlock if you put preserver on it.I usally sell white or red oak for that purpose.Would not use white pine. Frank C.
Hemlock won't last either, I use oak all the time.
but in my area we don't have a lot of white oak so I use red oak....
Jim Rogers
White oak, let it dry then coat it with burnt oil and diesel.
I'm surprised that no one has suggested persimmon. Many large flatbeds come from the factory with persimmon decking.
OR you could just use what you have in the yard. I used spruce and red pine soaked in used motor oil. I can see where the white oak would be better. Just didn't have any when I had to fix the trailer.
I'm in NH don't think I have any persimmon around here
My preference is post oak, next choice is white oak. Joanie has the right idea. Park it in the hot sun and soak it with diesel/used motor oil. Persimon is hard as concrete, but it rots quickly. No black locust here. If you can find it, osage would probably outlast the trailer.
Hello guys new to this forum. What does the burnt oil do for the wood..help preserve it? If so can fence posts be done the same way?
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Rsangster. :)
Personally, I would not depend upon any oil to preserve my fence posts. Repeated coats of oil on trailer decking will promote runoff and prevent the wood from soaking up water, thus prolonging it's life. Oil will also soften the wood, as well as making it slick, so be careful.
Of the 3 species you mentioned, I would choose the Hemlock, but take the time to treat it with an oil finish, even the used motor oil will work, but let it soak in good before you use it because it will be slippery for a while.
I redecked my trailer with American Larch (Tamarack) about 8 years ago and treated it with used motor oil and it's still going strong.
O.k thanks that makes sense. Not to get of topic but where on this forum would beginners go to find out how to's on sawing lumber to correct way? I have a lt40hd and want to learn how to quarter saw logs and how to make the most out of a given log.
Regardless of which species or treatment...has anybody mixed in some boiled linseed oil?
A few years ago, an old timer recommended it to me. He suggested to mix some in with any type of stain being used. I did an experment with a lodgepole archway over my driveway mixing it in with some stain and it worked well. Also works great on maul/hammer/axe handles. Soak the replacement wood portion that goes into the head then drive in the wedge. Big difference!
Rsangster
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
A number of threads have been posted on the topic of quarter sawing. Several ways, some to get true quarter sawn and others that will give some rift sawn as well.
Let us hear what you have found so far, and we'll get some help your way for many answers.
Pull up a stump and sit awhile. :)
Best to use search at the top of the page.
You should also check the other features, tool box, find a -----, profile.
Enjoy.
Tamerak would be great but none around here for some reason. It will probably be Hemlock But some locals like the Quaking aspen.
Have any place to store some decking for future use?
Before aluminum ladders ladders were made out of wood. An old painter once told me that they used to treat all their wooden ladders with a mix of turpentine and boiled linseed oil. 50-50 of each.
When you read a can of deck preservatives they say "apply to dry wood". Well fresh cut trailer decking isn't "dry wood" so they won't stick or work very well, in my opinion.
When you read a can of boiled linseed oil it says "apply to wood".... nothing about it being dry. and it says it will help prevent splitting and checking.
The oil replaces the water keeping the wood moist and prevents it from splitting out by drying too fast through the ends.
I have recommended using this mix since the old painter told me this. And many, many of my trailer decking customers have used it. and they all the time tell me how great it is for preserving their trailer decks.
I have told them to do the ends and the bottoms of the planks before the bolt them down. and then after they bolt them down do the tops, so that all surfaces are covered.
Jim Rogers
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/219/Backhoe_trailer_1a.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/219/Backhoe_trailer_3b.jpg)
Gday
I just cheated today and got some 3/4 Hd Plastic coated Formply for $140 to do the floor on the 14x8' tray on My new to me truck Ittl do the job I was going to use cypress pine and will still use that for the head board ;) ;D When doing floors in the past I have used mainly Ironbark or Mountain Ash for the deck ;)
Regards Chris
My favorite wood for trailer decking is Red Elm. It is tough as nails and light as a feather (when compared to White Oak) when dry. It is just hard to come by large enough trees to get much of it. Dutch elm disease kills most of them before they get big enough.
There've been several threads about sawing used creosoted utility poles and the consensus is, "Don't do it." Howsomeever.......I usta have an almost unlimited supply of large ones........many 24 inch DBH :D or more and that's what I used for trailer decking; white oak would be my second choice.
in this area of the continent, aspen and poplar are a common trailer deck wood. That has a lot to do with availability of the trees in this area as we dont have a lot of other hard woods. I know the ones I have cut decking for really like it.
Quote from: Rsangster on August 27, 2012, 10:49:00 PM
Not to get of topic but where on this forum would beginners go to find out how to's on sawing lumber to correct way? I have a lt40hd and want to learn how to quarter saw logs and how to make the most out of a given log.
This is the correct board and there are many topics on sawing (and failures) posted here. Opening the older topics should be very informative. Also, WM has many booklets on sawing and log setup. Give them a call.
If you choose the motor oil and diesel be aware that it is going to be slippery for a while.I decked one of my flat beds this way and it was a month before we could walk on it.
I can say that trailor deck makes 50 percent of my custom jobs, I have cut numerous types of wood. The best in my opinion would be the white oak with the flakey bard towards the tops. Post oak is a white oak species, just a bit darker in the heart wood. Also the post oak has a tendency to get a bit more dote and weird inclusions of defects. White oak will remain straighter if cut proper than the post oak, not near as much twisting and end curving. sweet gum is tough, just needs to be bolted soon after cutting. Hackberry the same, very tough. I like some of the water sealers rather than oil, but economy is to be factored in.
Cfarm, I have acres to store stuff and some might say I have an affliction for doing just that. I Appreciate the input. If I can find appropriate oak I will, but if I had to choose between quaking aspen and hemlock which would you go with? My neighbor may cut me some hemlock but if he doesn't I have many large quacking aspen to choose from.
Quote from: BBTom on August 28, 2012, 08:57:53 AM
My favorite wood for trailer decking is Red Elm. It is tough as nails and light as a feather (when compared to White Oak) when dry. It is just hard to come by large enough trees to get much of it. Dutch elm disease kills most of them before they get big enough.
I second the Red Elm or Slippery Elm with White Oak as the top 3. The Elm is much lighter green or dry and about as strong as the Oak. The trailer Decking around here is pretty popular too, (I need some for my trailer as well.) I've got a slippery elm with my trailers name on it now. Might have to take it to amish guy on other side of the street he has a Norwood and doing a bit of work... (no mill myself yet 2 deals fell through.)
The Oil Diesel deck treatment works if you dont want to walk on it really much for a long while :) last trailer we built was winter w W Oak decking cut at 2" thick had to Drill all the holes and then add the self tapping bolts/screws that would break off prior to "counter sinking" :o
Mark
Hemlock or aspen? Or as I would call the aspen, poplar.I really don't think there would be a difference. The hemlock would last longer untreated but might crack-split more than the poplar. I have heard of some dump truck drivers liking aspen for the bottom of thier dump bodies. It will dent more than some wood.
Of the more common woods mentioned, white oak has better rot resistance or ability to stand up to the elements if that is an important feature to you.
I use hemlock on all my trailers. It has incredible resistance to cracking. It can bend a long way before breaking. I use hydraulic oil to preserve it. New oil is best if u want a nice finish.
You should also go with wider boards. Say a 12" board verses an 8" board because each individual board will be a lot stronger. So when you run something up on it and the tire happens to be on one board instead of two you will have a stronger board.
He only has hemlock,white pine,aspen,oak,which I think would be red oak and maybe some ash. Some that was mentioned we don't have in our woods. Than It seems he narrowed it down to the aspen and the hemlock. Or that's how I see it. ;D
Cfarm has deciphered my new Hampshiren. If neighbor cuts me hemlock it will be hemlock. If I have to cut it will be poplar if I can't find an oak.
Thanks!
Basically use what you got, and treat it with something. Oil or a purchased product.
I have heard of cottonwood being used. Ash has been used in the past for farm wagons.
Quote from: tyb525 on August 29, 2012, 06:41:50 PMI have heard of cottonwood being used. Ash has been used in the past for farm wagons.
Not much of it around 'here' anymore, but back in the 'mule' days, the wood of choice around 'here' for wagon beds, sideboards, wheel spokes, etc was black gum. I'll bet it would work for trailer decking......
I just got a call from and oil field hauler asking if I had any tamarack that i could cut for 12 heavy hauler oilfield rigs.
I have access to a pretty decent wack of tamarack but would like to know if any one has actually used it for trailer decking. He wants full 2"X6" by 12 footers.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Not sure about that tamaruck or whatever it is, sounds exotic, which means dense for the most part. I have cut so many beds I lost count, the last order from a fellow out of Kansas, went from 6" 12 footers to 8" wide 12 footers, Personally, I believe less than 10" down to 6" is a good number. There is so much cupping with the wider boards unless a ton of fasteners are used, the 8" even 6" are just good numbers. Just my opinion. Not to mention If we can get a 2 X 12 cant, there is usually fas grade, not bad for appearance, just hard to charge a buck a bd/ft foor a trailor floor, just a waste, unless they want it, then they get it. I did one floor for a lawyer, this is what he wanted, planed every board, dried them, clear coated them, and Yep very nice red oak floor. It was a re-built boat trailor tandom axle, with the radius near the tongue. This was a beaut! Trailor design has allot to due with board width and the spacing of fasteners. The under carrage cross members should be considered along with the what the trailor is hauling,
These trailers haul mud tanks, surge tanks, gen sets, mud pumps, skid shacks of all descriptions and pretty much any thing else the oil patch can get on them. Some are 10 feet wide by various lengths. I think 48 is minimum.
Tamarack is a local coniferous tree that loses its needles in the fall. It is a pretty hard wood and very durable but it is prone to twisting un less you get it down very soon after milling so you can hold it in place. It does shrink some but I have never paid much attention to that as the stuff iIhave cut (which is about 2000BF total) went into decks on homes at local lake where traffic durability and moisture resistance were the number one concerns of the customer. A few dozen people and a little rain and snow are a long way from an 80,000 lb load of oil fiel rigging and gear though.
https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRhCKHZVP0Phcv1bJjcuM_6o_whxLoT8PA3-Vxfu4cuY172JQmOVQ
https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTqAgjTV2wwmMVmEF0ialqK400jbH1022-XangJvhcgVymBaEOh
Just an example of the kind of equipment that these will have for a loads. and no those are not the trailers owned by the. customer. He is how ever the same guy I cut the decking for
My advice is if the customer wants tamerack and you have it, that's what you give him.
If I has some up here (supposedly they are but not anywhere I'm aware of) I would use it.
I also don't think its a choice that will come back to haunt you. If it breaks when a gen set is dropped on it it's not your fault nor do I think you would be blamed.
shinnlinnger,you will notice it pretty soon. :( The needles are green now. But it will turn to a kinda yellow-orange color coming up pretty soon. Than they will drop the needles like the hardwood does. Usually where there is one you will see more. I have very few up in my woods past the bog. But have patches of it around my house.It is called hackmatack in my area. The latin name is Larix laricina. I have a book the Maine Forest Service put out. I went to a work shop and that book was there for free. Good deal!! I just contacted them for one for my grandson for $15.Still a good deal. I know the name my Father gave them.
Is there a table some where that shows relative strength of the various wood and how the wood is milled. ie flat sawn, 1/4sawn, plain sawn etc.
I do want to get this right cause it could lead to a very good long term contract with several of the oil field heavy haulers in the area. I asked him today if they could give me a PSI load minimum and he said yes that he would get that to me along wit ha list of woods from the engineer that designs their trailers. ALL of them are custom built and they have one under construction that over 100 tires under it. I asked why wood decks and he said the safety issues of load shifting much lower on wood vs steel and also the reduced weight of the trailer.
I am not positive but I think Tamarack is the same tree known as Larch where you are,it is very strong and has a slow taper with very small branches. Preferred by power companies for the strength and straightness with an almost dowel like minimal taper. I have cut it and it is very dense and heavy material, should make a very good trailer deck. Another popular deck for lowbeds and equipment trailers is cottonwood,when dry it is light weight and very dense with good grain characteristics that resist tear out from crawler tractor pads.
I have used aspen for some outdoor projects and it is also a good choice from what you have available. I hope some of this is helpful and sounds like a fun project.
Thanks giant!
yes most people do call it larch around here. Guess i been listen to the gov forestry people to long. :D
Several different types in the area and I am liking what I am hearing from the engineer. pretty much bang on with what you just posted. The Tamarack type that these guys would like comes the lower foot hills boggy areas up to the lower alpine boggy meadows and is a very oily wood when dry and there for very resistant to petroleum based hydro carbons. Who would'a thunk it?
I just found out that Fortis Alberta is the largest user of that type of tree for, you said it giant, power poles, and especially in the wet unstable boggy areas they have to traverse with power lines. This could turn out to be a great gig.
Fortis interested in have me mill old tamarack power poles for replacement cross beams for the rural 3 phase lines. It is strange how things can evolve some times. Nothing is solid yet but I have learned a lot in the last day or so. Now the trick will be to commanderie that Tamarack from the fire wood vendor that it is headed for.
Gona go look at the logs on the week end. The fire wood guy figures we can possible make a deal on the logs from 10 diameter and up as that is were his processer starts to complain when splitting. Says he has about 25 to 30 loads. And a lot of good sized Poplar and Aspen as well.
Here is document specific to Tamarack that should help with backing you up with some properties that are good for trailer decking.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/amwood/268tamar.pdf
Quote from: beenthere on August 31, 2012, 12:00:46 AM
Here is document specific to Tamarack that should help with backing you up with some properties that are good for trailer decking.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/amwood/268tamar.pdf
WOW thank you a lot Been there. Valuable information that I have passed along to the engineer just now.
A few qestions for the experts while on this topic, I haul heavy equipment, my deck on one of my trailers is shot, beyond shot actually, just haven't had the time to replace it yet. Everyone is telling me to buy appitongue flooring, not sure of the spelling, its supposed to be harder and denser wood than oak or elm. I like the oak decking myself, thats what was on my last four trailers anyhow, lasted fine. Anyone shed any light on the appitongue wood??
Next question I have is the treatment of the wood, isn't it better to treat the wood on both sides before its bolted down onto the trailer? I'm under the understanding that putting motor oil either new or used is like treating the wood with a creasote product, is this right or wrong way of looking at it?
Next question I have is what are bridge planks made of of and how are they treated? What type of wood and also are they pressure treated creasote or exactly how are they treated?
Another question along the same line of discussion is shed poles, on one of my machine sheds, the end poles are 6x6's pressure treated and the side poles are 8x8 creasoted, the 8x8's are fine the 6x6's are all rotted off and wothless, how do you tell what type of wood the 8x8's are made of and where do you get new one's like it, my local lumber yards tell me they can no longer get them, only pressure treated lumber today? Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my questions.
Randy
Where are you located, and how long does the trailer deck of oak last ?? And is it decay or wear and tear that brings them to their life's end?
How long have the treated posts been in ?
What is the cost to you for Apitong wood?
Beenthere, I'm in northeast Iowa, most of my decks have lasted about 10 years, its a toss up between wear and tear and decay as to what kills my decks, the apatongue decks are really high priced, two to three times the price, but people tell me it saves time to repace them and they hold up better than oak decks for wear and tear. Right now the deck on my triple axle trailer is rotted out and thus no wear is going to happen, I can't load any rubber tired anything on it or it breaks through, my tandem axle lowboy is from wear, the wood is solid, but torn up and busted pretty badly but holds anything we put on it.
All the posts were put in at the same time about 28 years ago, the creasote post are fine the treated posts started to rot off about 15 years ago and we've dug new posts in beside the rotted ones and botled them together, now those are even rotted off again, next time around I'm thinking either creasoted or put a cement wall under the building, it wouldn't be much more work to do that as to replace all the end treated posts............again.
The treated posts are some kind of softwood. The new stuff these days is even worse than what you bolted on to them 15 years ago.
If you'd rather replace the posts and not pour concrete, use eastern red cedar (not western red cedar!!) or black locust posts. They will last at least 40-50 years or longer, much longer than the pressure treated you buy now.