abnormal fuel consumption??

[Maineloggerkid]

 When I first got my 385xp I was very happy with it in all aspects. But slowly it has become a "problem child". The starter cover bearings dry out, it won't run worth crap in winter, and the chain tensioner doesn't seem to work right. It randomly loosens to the point of the chains flying off, with no warning of even being loose.

My latest problem is fuel usage. I went out today and did some chopping just trying to get a jump on the week, and after about 5 trees, I figured I'd check the fuel level. When I popped the cap off, It was almost bone dry- AFTER FIVE TREES!! I can't afford to pay that kinda gas bill.

Is that normal for a 385xp?? Have I just got a lemon??  Please help.

[GASoline71]

Any big cc saw is goinna be a gas hog... That if fairly normal.

When you adjust the tension on the chain are you lifting up on the end of the bar?  If you don't, it will only take about 3 or 4 cuts for the chain to become loose again.  It seems like you need 3 hands to do it, but it will prolly aleviate your chain comin' loose.

Not sure what you mean by starter cover bearings...  could you explain further?

Gary

[Maineloggerkid]

I adjust the chain the same way I always have, and have never had any trouble before. It is completly random, too. It might go 2-3 days just fine, or might take 2 cuts. The bearings or rollers in the recoil start dry out and then the pull cord won't go back in.

[Rocky_J]

There are no bearings or rollers in the recoil. It's a wound spring, just like a tape measure. And I suspect your chain tensioning issue is a combination of user error and sprocket/bar wear (just guessing). When was the last time you changed the sprocket or dressed the bar?

[Tom]

Husky's are notorious for the bar adjusting screw to vibrate out.  I used to always lose them. 

You might try some lok-tite on it.  Not to make it unusable, but to create some resistance.  You can sometimes rake a screwdriver down the threads of the screw, just enough to bugger them up a little and they will hang in there a little better.

The loose chain can be caused by prying on the bucking teeth when you are sawing. It makes the saw cut faster, but it is really tough on the chain. A little pressure is OK, but hunkering down on it. to overcome a dull chain, will stretch the chain.

Only 5 trees?  That could be a lot of sawing.  If it is running good, I wouldn't worry about that.

[Maineloggerkid]

User error is definetly not the issue, I have never had a problem before. I just went down and cut 9 trees with a tank, so it is not comsistent.

[SwampDonkey]

On my thinning saw if I was using excess fuel, it would be dull saw and/or plugged filter. If not maintained, maybe 30-40 minutes a tank, otherwise close to an hour, sometimes 5 minutes more per tank. Depends on the tree diameters and density. Dull saw is the worst, when she's sharp I just have to touch it and I like to keep it sharp that way. When I start wresting with beech, the blade needs changing or I've hit fence or rock. It will take about 3 filings to get back into shape. For a $20 blade, it's best to just slap on a new one, the $20 will soon be recovered.  ;D I never seen a Husky bulk at the cold, on the older professional thinning saw there wasn't even a primer button. I have a fellow that cut 300 acres of brush on his Husky over three summers. He hates the newer models because they have less torque, so his production will decrease in thinnings that are at the upper limit for size.

[Rocky_J]

If you're going to discuss cutting time per tank of fuel, at least use terms that the rest of us can relate to (like minutes). I have no idea what kind of trees you're cutting or how long it takes you to cut them. The same tree that would take one cutter 3 minutes to drop might take another 15-20 or more. So trying to measure running time with 'trees' won't work.

And you never answered me, when was the last time you changed the sprocket or dressed the bar? I'm still wondering where I can find me some of dem 'recoil bearings'.  :D

As far as "it won't run worth a crap in winter", I cannot diagnose that through mental telepathy either. Do you know how to adjust the carb? I've linked the Madsen's carb tuning page about a hundred times here, have you ever read it?

[beenthere]

I think this is one of those rare chainsaws that has a mind of its own...and wants to give maineloggerkid fits, and a hard time.  8) 8)  (like he said right off...a problem child).

With these rare saws, either talk real nice to it , or beat it with a stick.  Either might work.  ;D ;D ;D

[SwampDonkey]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure he knows how to put a chain on and sharpen it and do minor maintenance like a clean filter and a plug. But, I see guys sometimes that want the saw to work right all the time but don't do minor maintenance even though they know how and they should be doing it. I have had a fellow or two I had to lean on a little and some just do what has to be done. ;) 

[Mooseherder]

Seems some like to help by putting other people down.
Maineloggerkid, I am sorry about that.  Your explanation would have the most experienced fallers baffled.  Take it to your dealer to see if he can help you.  He may see something he has seen before.

[ErikC]

  I don't know much about your particular saw, I run Stihls. But the large saws use a lot of fuel. If I have been on one of the small ones and then switch, I wonder what's wrong too. 
Huskys a good brand so try and figure it out, but don't rule out a lemon entirely. Every manufacturer throws one in now and then. Hope you didn't get it.

Beenthere says:
With these rare saws, either talk real nice to it , or beat it with a stick.  Either might work.    ;D ;D ;D

As for that, throwing them over the bank always worked best for me  >:(

[Maineloggerkid]

Rocky J- The saw is almost brand new. I have been running the skidder, so it probably has only 10 cord or so on it. I wouldn't know how many hours, because every day is a little different, and I don't time it. I check the bar and sprocket regularly, and I keep my chain sharp as a razor, because I the saw should do the work for me, not me pushing it through the cut. I know how to keep my saws good, I didn't spend 3 years in a CLP class for nothing.

As far as time to cut trees, maybe 3 minutes a tree, and I only got 5 trees the first try, and I got 8-9 the second tank. I was cutting ruffly 20 trees with my 372 this summer. As for the recoil " bearings", I don't take those starters apart, as I have never had trouble with them, to this point.

When I say it runs like crap in the winter, I mean: It takes up to 10 minutes for it to get fully warmed up( my 372 was warm after a couple quick revvs), the bar and chain are always freezing up, and my fuel consumption went way down.

Sorry for being a little hazy on my post, I sometimes have a hard time putting my exact thoughts or ideas on a computer screen.

[Mooseherder]

Sorry for being a little hazy on my post, I sometimes have a hard time putting my exact thoughts or ideas on a computer screen.

I wouldn't change a thing about you kid.   I'd bet you cut more trees down than the feller you're talking too. :D ;D

[thecfarm]

I would return it back to the dealer,even if it's a 4 hour drive.   ;D I'm not a customer that will work on something that I spent $700 for.Really irks me to see all the junk that is put out there for us to buy and the seller expects us to part with our hard earned money and not complain that it does not work right. I can understand about the 5 trees thing.I would say the same thing if I was talking about it.

[Al_Smith]

 About 30-40 minutes run time per tank is about par for about any saw . An 80-90 cc saw will suck down gas though .

The recoil deal could be just an alignment problem or the spring needs another turn .

On an older saw sometimes the bushing gets worn and eliptical on the starter rope drum which will cause them to bind .Some saws have no bushing but still can be repaired by installing same but that's another topic all together .

A person can give suggestions but it's nearly impossible to diagnose a problem over the internet  and be 100 percent accurate .

[Rocky_J]

Yup, I'm a jerk. All the suggestions of 'beat it with a stick' or 'return it to the dealer 4 hours away' are much more productive than checking the carb adjustments or looking to see if there is any abnormal wear on the bar or sprocket (who knows how many hours runtime are on this saw). I have no clue what I'm talking about because I've never actually run a chainsaw, only read about them on the internet. I'll leave you guys to figure out your recoil bearings by yourselves.
8)

[Norm]

I don't think I'd sweat it too much MK. That does seem like it's sucking it through but I'd give it some time to see if it's really a problem or just a breakin issue.

My 372 I got a couple of years ago made me think the same. I'd been running a 036pro and the bigger saw used significantly more than it did but boy will it ever cut, especially after some modding.

I'm like you though I don't run the stop watch while I'm running the chainsaw. ;D

[Ed]

Not very familiar with the 385xp.....just wondering if it has a cold weather "shutter" similar to what Stihl uses. It allows hot air from the engine into the filter box to improve cold weather performance.
Y'all are in Maine...not the warmest place in the winter.

Ed

[GASoline71]

I wouldn't change a thing about you kid.   I'd bet you cut more trees down than the feller you're talking too. :D ;D

That I would highly doubt.  Nobody has really been to hard on the kid.  Vauge questions usually get vauge and not so desireable answers.  When you have to poke and prod to find out what is really wrong... it gets a little old. 

I'm still not sure about the "trees" either... When I take out a 120' 30+"dbh Doug Fir... I can assure you it takes some fuel to get that baby on the ground, limbed, and bucked...  If your cuttin' pecker-poles... you can get quite a few more felled, limbed, and bucked with the same amount of fuel.

The sticking recoil spring is probably due to a lot of fine saw dust and dirt getting in to the rewind.  A lot of times you can pull the rewind assembly off, and spray it with a little wd-40 and work it in and out, and it will unstick.  Make sure your chains are sharp... fine saw dust will wreak havoc on a saw...

Gary

[Maineloggerkid]

I gave an estimate of 3 mins. per tree, so at five trees- 15 minutes runtime. Seems a little high consumption to me. But, the weather is warmer right now, and It seems to be getting more" mileage", if you will.   

All I was asking for is some helpful ideas or opinions, and I got some. They have been noted. It seems that due to my somewhat vague descriptions at first a lot of people are getting their panties in a bunch, and I feel that there is no need to further this thread unless someone has an earth shattering revelation ( not likely).

By the way, I find no humor in the dragging on of the starter bearing comment. I haven't torn one apart.

[Tom]

I do. ;D
It reminds me of my days of burgeoning automobile customization when Chopping and channeling were the first things out of ones mouth and most descriptions followed with details like High Speed Muffler bearings, Gold plated and polished hubcap manifolds, wildfire flames, trained foxtails, striped wind resistant coon tails, Butyl rubber slicks and pink, anti-cop license plate lights.

Come on Guys, look for jokes before you look for ignorance.  There's too much fun to be had here to get that serious.  :D :D

I wonder how it would run with gangster whitewalls? :D

[tractorhal]

the recoil may have debry in it as stated,  I have a 365 that got wet, and sat for a month and had problem with recoil. It was the "dogs" on the flywheel were hanging up and not allowing it to rewind. they had more resistance than the reciol spring had. 

[Maineloggerkid]

Thanks, I'll check on that.

[Al_Smith]

 A recoil can get hung for any number of reasons but I wouldn't think so on a fairly new saw . Then again seldom do I get my hot little hands on a fairly new saw so how would I know .