Anyone experiment with alternative energy?

Minnesota_boy · January 22, 2007, 01:37:12 PM

Yes, a snowmobile clutch system is what Harold needs, both halves. The engine clutch is only speed sensitive and will shift down as the RPM goes down. The secondary clutch has a rotation to the movable sheave that causes it to close some as torque load increases. With that, the engine will retain its RPM while providing more torque to the output shaft.

Ones I've seen for combines lack the torque sensing and rely on hydraulically changing the clutch.

Fla._Deadheader · January 22, 2007, 04:18:00 PM

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah yeah, Dat's IT. A non mechanical actuated type.

I ain't never seen one. The Combine one was hydraulically activated, maybe.

The one I want, will allow a start up from a light or stop sign, then, as speed picks up, RPM's stay the same or go down to a "Cruising" level. Might still need a mechanical actuated one, to maintain Hwy speeds ??? ??? I just don't know, YET :

:

;D :D

Had one on a Sears Lawn Tractor. Worked by pul;ling or pushing on a lever. Them things are smooth as silk.

Riles · January 22, 2007, 04:30:28 PM

Harold.....don't get your leg hair caught in that sno-mo drive!

Fla._Deadheader · January 22, 2007, 06:51:02 PM

No problem with ANYTHING gettin caught in the drive.

I been lookin, and there are other possibilities besides the belt and Pulleys deallie.

Fla._Deadheader · February 01, 2007, 03:07:02 PM

OK, nother bright idea :

:

What about fluid power ???

Use a Hydraulic pump on the Diesel Engine. Put a Hydraulic Motor on the Driveshaft. Control flow with a Flow controller, operated by cable to hand or foot mechanism. Run hot oil through a radiator of sorts, to cool oil. Need a reservoir and pressure relief valve.

What's the durability of such a rig ??? Will it provide decent "Bite" off the line and then proceed to cruising speed ???

Where's all the Hydraulical geniuses ???

Furby · February 01, 2007, 08:12:44 PM

I thought the losses on hyd were pretty large?

Fla._Deadheader · February 01, 2007, 08:53:37 PM

I've read everywhere from 35% loss to 87% efficiency, and MORE if certain criteria is used. Where's them DanG geniouses ??? :

:

Furby · February 01, 2007, 09:30:31 PM

Not so sure those last two words were ever ment to go together DeadHeader. :D :D :D

Don_Papenburg · February 01, 2007, 11:50:06 PM

If you are looking for the best fuel efficancy hydo is not the way to go. However the Deere 595 garden tractor will cherp the tires . it is a hydro. I have several hydralic motor drives ,and the speed is almost instant . It depends on how fast and how much volume is flowing at the drop of the hammer. A lot of the Amish woodworkers convert their tools to hydralic motors and get along well with them.

Dana · February 12, 2007, 06:57:34 AM

Fladeadheader, in the past I worked as an unlicensed marine engineer for a company that did cruise dining. They had boats from here to Sanford Florida. Anyway, the last boat built was a 105' paddle boat. It was propelled by two diesel engines directly attached to large Eaton hydraulic pumps. Steel lines ran to the twin paddle wheels on the stern where there were two Hagglunds hydraulic motors turning the wheels.
We had two problems with the system. The first was no accumulators were designed into the system. Without this, starts and stops are hard on everything.. think hose failure.
The second problem was that the paddle shafts couldn't take the torque. They were hollow shafts, 6" dia, 3/4" material. These had to be rewelded many times the first season and were replaced with solid shafts during the off season.
After these problems were fixed there were no hydraulic problems.

Fla._Deadheader · February 12, 2007, 07:42:18 AM

I found a couple 2 and 3 cyl Kubota diesel engines. HP is around 14-18.
I cant find the combination to figure the size of pump and motor. I will direct couple the Hyd motor to the driveshaft on the Bike rear. It should be a 3:25-1 ratio.

Anybody ??? there were links to 3 calculators put on a post, however, IF I knew the flow rate and torque, I would have already bought the Hyd parts ??? I need to go from Diesel HP to max Hyd capabilities. ??? I'm planning on open center system, so, bypassing oil under pressure is ruled out. That builds more heat, which I do not need.

HEELLLLLPPP

Don_Papenburg · February 12, 2007, 09:05:59 AM

In reality open center produces more heat . The reason is oil is always circulating. Closed center has the pump running on idle till it is needed . but then you need a charge pump to keepp oil available at a moments notice for the main pump ,Genealy a VARIABLE PISTON PUMP . Open cenrer generaly uses a gearpump

Fla._Deadheader · February 12, 2007, 09:23:17 AM

Hmmmmmm

I was thinkin that oil under pressure would get hotter. Just circulating at "0" pressure would be better ??? Hmmmmmmm

The pump would speed up-slow down, as the engine is revved, just like a car. Idling at a stop light would need "0" pressure. An accumulator would cushion the start-stop jerking modes.

Tom · February 12, 2007, 07:24:09 PM

How does an accumulator for an open hydraulic system work?

I had a piece of equipment with a tank on it that was supposed to work as an accumulator. It was a piece of 4" square tube that had been sealed on both ends and an in and out coupling welded to the end. The square tubing couldn't handle the pressure and kept splitting. Sometimes it would split at the welds and sometimes it would split in the square tube edges where it had been bent or extruded at a 90.

Even water pressure tanks need some kind of cushion or they "hammer".

I was told once when I was a young fellow that hydraulc oil was like pushing a stick. It was just the man's way of explaining how it worked. If it is like pushing a stick, because it is less resistant to compression than water or air, how is a hydraulic accumulator manufactured/designed?

submarinesailor · February 12, 2007, 07:29:28 PM

Harold,

Have you looked into using a swashbuckle plate hydraulic pump? When the plate is in the neutral position, no fuel is being pump. The pump just sits there and turns. There is no fuel movement until the plate is shifted away from neutral. Saw them used in some very high reliability systems.

Bruce

Fla._Deadheader · February 12, 2007, 08:16:41 PM

Have NO idea how an accumulator is constructed. It acts as a "reserve" pressure tank. Still pokin holes in the build, to see what I can figure out.

Never heard of the swashbuckle plate pump, Bruce. I'll look into it.

Don_Papenburg · February 12, 2007, 09:54:33 PM

A hyd. accumulator either has a piston witha spring to force oil back out as it overcomes the hyd. press. or it has a a nitrogen charged bag /diaphraminside the tank .

Oil just spinning in a tranny is at 0 psi and it heats up . Oil in a opencenter type pump is being forced through two gears . so even if it is just dumping out of the pump it has some pressure.

I don't think that you need a closed center pump or a variable piston or swashplate . just run the gearpump and a hyd motor through a variable valve.
One other thought get a hydrostatic drive unit that has the pumpand motor all in one unit . That will give you the smoothest of all systems that you could put together.
Look up Serplus Center Linclon Ne

Dana · February 13, 2007, 06:43:10 AM

Tom, What Don said is correct.

The accumulators on the Star of Charlevoix were nitrogen charged. They look very similar to a large oil filter assy with a charge valve on the top. They are installed in line on the pressure side of the system. If you think of a newer water well pressure tank like Well Xtroll you basically have an accumulator.

Fla._Deadheader · February 13, 2007, 07:09:23 AM

I already been to Surplus Center. All I could find was transaxle hydrostatic. They did youster have accumulators , also :

:

Tha transaxle will have spiders, no ?? Maybe I need to search for exploded view of a transaxle ??? My Bike will have a final drive gearbox, that is inside the real wheel hub. I just have to connect a Hyd motor to the splided driveshaft.

BBTom · February 13, 2007, 07:14:59 AM

I thought most of the newer garden tractor transaxles were hydrostatic. They would have the right HP requirements for you, but not the right gearing for "road speed".

There are quite a few ATV's with "automatic" drives, and they would be much closer to what you are looking for, Maybe find a wrecked Polaris ranger, I don't know if the tranny can be disassociated from the engine on those.

better yet, a Kubota RTV. already have the deisel engine and the tranny. Kubota Specs link

Minnesota_boy · February 13, 2007, 09:28:23 AM

Yup, the transaxle will have spiders. A transaxle incorporates a hydrostatic transmission, differential and rear axle. It might work OK for a 3 wheel motorcycle, but I think it might be tough making it work for a 2 wheel motorcycle.

The ones I worked on had a variable volume pump controlled by a swash plate that fed a hydraulic motor that drove the pinion.

Fla._Deadheader · February 13, 2007, 09:53:33 AM

This is the rear "Clip" I will be using. It shows gearbox, brake caliper and rotor, and drive shaft. It swivels on the mail frame, to obtain a "softer" ride. I got a wheel and tire with it, and it's all BRAND NEW.

Tom · February 14, 2007, 02:23:58 PM

Well, that probably explains why mine didn't work. If figured that it needed some kind of mechanical device to allow for expansion/compression since oil doesn't compress.

Fla._Deadheader · February 17, 2007, 12:18:03 PM

Just found an interesting Site HERE

Mooseherder · June 23, 2007, 09:05:13 AM

This guy shows how he discovered you can power a sterling type engine using salt water. Interesting Video clip from their local news station at the bottom of story shows how he did it.
I sent this to folks in my e-mail circle and two responded back saying big oil will buy this and squash it. >:(
http://www.wkyc.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=68227