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Question on Solar Kiln construction

Started by TmbrWlkr, September 11, 2020, 06:56:59 PM

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TmbrWlkr

I apologize if this has been asked before - just couldn't find the answer.  I have a Norwood 36 which I bought mostly for hobby sawing salvaged/reclaimed lumber (that's my business - salvager/wholesaler)

I want to follow the plans as closely as possible - but also use a fair amount of my own material.  What is the downside of sheathing the outside of the kiln in board and batten spruce?  I also plan on diverging from the gospel buy using OSB on the inside😲.  I will still use faced insulation, and plan on caulking with high temp caulk and painting with a waterproof paint.

OK - please advise away!

Dr Gene's response will be especially appreciated

doc henderson

It has a lot to do with cost vs longevity.  The osb may not be as good as ply wood, as it has a rough surface.  so i guess if you have to replace it in 5 years instead of 10 so what.  the board and batten style is ok, and the spruce should be ok, as long as it is coated/painted.  the glaze and insulation, fans should be the biggest expense for a guy with a saw mill.  @GeneWengert-WoodDoc  When I asked him a hundred questions, he finally laughed and said "it is just a solar kiln".  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

farmfromkansas

I boxed my solar kiln inside and outside with osb.  Put clear 6mm film on the inside walls, and unfaced fiberglass batts. Caulked the corners and joints and joint between floor and walls with some expensive caulk, let it dry then painted the inside with the aluminum paint made for painting metal roofs. Then painted the walls with flat black oil based enamel. For siding I used smart siding with smart trim corners. For the doors, I used a frame of 2x4's, with a 2x4 angling from one corner to the other, then used 3/4" form ply on the exterior. I also put 2x4's on 16" centers inside the doors, cut to fit the angle brace. Miter saw came in handy.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The outside can be board and batten without any issue if the board pieces do not cup.

OSB is not suggested for the interior as it is very sensitive to moisture.  We prefer plywood made with an exterior adhesive, like CDx
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

TmbrWlkr

OK - It looks like it will be vapor barrier paint, over CDX, over 6mil plastic, over faced fiberglass insulation with board and batten siding!

I have a venting question - but will post that tomorrow.  Thanks for all the advice.

YellowHammer

Don't overbuild or overthink a solar kiln.  I built mine out of board and batting siding from my mill, some fiberglass insulation, some plywood and black asphalt paint.  The vents are plastic sliding basement vents from Lowes, the fans are $20 box fans from Wal Mart.  

The kiln has been producing quality lumber for over a decade. 

There are several posts on venting solar kilns, try a search for "Easy Bake Oven." :D :D 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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