I just got home with a 2011 LT35HD - I need your counsel on how to succeed.

[MikeySP]

As usual, you men are gems. Thank you for your advice. I am taking notes and will make some changes. 

1. I will try to clarify board foot definition with practical example(s).
2. I like the hourly rate for quarter sawn; however, I will switch to that after a chalk up a couple jobs quarter sawing first; as, I would not want to pay an hourly rate for an incompetent sawyer who is getting paid while he learns. 
3. Gerald, thanks. I see the problem of getting locked in. Very serious problem there. 
4. Magicman,  are you saying that you cut through, raise saw, backup to start of next cut; while, off bearer pulls the board off the front and stacks it there? I like your location for the slabs. When I looked at my drawing, I did not like the idea of carrying the slabs there. My first day cutting, ALONE, I did run into problems placing flitches to be edged on loader arms as they became too numerous, but with an off bearer, I can see how placing them on upcoming logs after loader arm gets full could work well.

Also, thank you gents for the clarification about keeping my questions here. Not to beat a dead horse, but since I am building a debarker for my LT35, I was thinking it might be better to have a dedicated thread for that particular topic as it might be helpful for someone else wanting to embark on that. Otherwise, it will be buried amongst all my "getting going" questions and experiences. What say you?

Sawyer Ted, someone PM'd me and mentioned you have gone down the road I am starting out on. Glad to meet you.

Men, if I repeat my questions, ever, do not think your words are wasted; but, I am drinking so much information in as I try to get going, that I feel like the puppy in the image below .

-Mike



 

[doc henderson]

I see what you did there.  "someone else embarking on a debarker build"! I think for that specifically you could start a dedicated thread that people can find if searching for that specifically.  post some pics as get started milling.  Regards!

[Magicman]

Magicman, are you saying that you cut through, raise saw, backup to start of next cut; while, off bearer pulls the board off the front and stacks it there?

That is exactly what I am saying, except that it is actually off of the back (where the taillight is).  ;D  The previous board(s) that I sawed are gone before I start the next cut and have been (stickered) stacked before I finish that cut and he is ready to grab that next board.

[Kwill]

P.S.  The weather forecast looks good for me next week.  I am sawing ~75 miles South of Memphis which is ~200 miles SW of you.  Actually you are closer to that job than I am.  :D

im 200 miles from memphis. So if i made a 275 mile road trip i could meet the great magicman in person 8)

[Magicman]

Don't know how "great" I am but the next time that I plan to be in the Branson/Springfield area I will give you a buzz and we will meet.   ;D

I have actually been through Bendavis, MO. a couple of times, and I also have a Grandson; Ben Davis.

[MikeySP]

Hi guys! Unfortunately my ad for sawmill service was removed form Facebook Marketplace. I did their appeal process, but was denied. They do allow other services such as plumber, etc.., but I guess sawmill not so much. Maybe it was my wording or who I got to review it? Is this common for you sawyers out there or do I need to rewrite my ad to fit properly on their playground? Unfortunately, when I got the "denied" option, there was no appeal again button, so that bridge is out. 

Exciting to see how this venture goes. 

-Mike

PS. Magicman, if your off bearer calls in sick, l am 160 miles from Memphis .

[WV Sawmiller]

   I just reviewed your PDF and it would not work for me. I throw my slabs where you show the flitches to be edged (on the other side of the sawdust pile) and I off-load off the end of the mill as MM is describing. I don't like an off-bearer behind me as they tend to get in my way as I back up creating safety issues/trip hazards and slowing me down. When I start backing up they remove the board. If fliches as often as not it is faster for me to just toss it on the arms. Also I often have a tractor or skid steer with forks at the end of the mill or a truck/trailer parked there and we pretty much just slide the finished lumber off on to the vehicle. If I am cutting multiple sizes there may be several piles of finished lumber located close around the end of the mill and the off bearer stacks  accordingly (8', 10', 12' 8/4 vs 4/4, etc). In some cases I let a couple of boards lay on the cant before they have to be moved. This allows the off-bearer to run get some more stickers or stage a log or such. I normally edge the flitches against the cant when it gets down to about 3.5" or so. After edging I resume sawing the cant into boards till it is finished - usually 3-4 more boards.

[Kwill]

If ya blinked when ya went through bendavis you would miss it

[Magicman]

Well Missouri State Highway MM does end in Bendavis.   ;D

[MikeySP]

Doc Henderson thank you for that response. I have spent all afternoon working out some design challenges on my Debarker. I am going to go ahead and start another thread: "embarking on a debarker build for my LT-35".

Here is the link to the debarker thread "Building a DIY Hommade debarker for my Woodmizer LT35HD"

-Mike

[Southside]

Well Missouri State Highway MM does end in Bendavis.   ;D

My GPS used to call that "Milli-Meter Highway" when driving through there.   :

[Kwill]

Well Missouri State Highway MM does end in Bendavis.   ;D

Yep it does and im right around the corner from there. 8)

[charles mann]

Hi guys! Unfortunately my ad for sawmill service was removed form Facebook Marketplace. I did their appeal process, but was denied. They do allow other services such as plumber, etc.., but I guess sawmill not so much. Maybe it was my wording or who I got to review it? Is this common for you sawyers out there or do I need to rewrite my ad to fit properly on their playground? Unfortunately, when I got the "denied" option, there was no appeal again button, so that bridge is out.

Exciting to see how this venture goes.

-Mike

PS. Magicman, if your off bearer calls in sick, l am 160 miles from Memphis .

iv seen adds in the texas market place for sawing. here is an example of how he wrote his. 
Update Your Browser | Facebook
here is another add,
Update Your Browser | Facebook
and another,
Update Your Browser | Facebook
not sure what you had in your add for it to be denied, but there are adds out there.

[MikeySP]

Kwill, I lived about two hours to your south from 2007-2017. 

Charles, that is what I thought. I titled my ad Sawmilling service and I had 6-8 people ask me if it wa available. Like I was selling it. I responded with, "yes, my sawmilling service is available". Must have missed the word "service". Then I appealed and was sure I would win the appeal, but "denied" no explanation or what I had done wrong. I figured I could try again and be more dummy proof with clarity but I was very surprised I lost the appeal.  Thank you VERY much for sharing those links. I looked at all of them. 

-Mike

[MikeySP]

Howdy! I have been knee deep in debarker building, but with a break waiting on parts, I have sifted through a pile of trees a fell several months back and made them ready for sawing once the debarker is done.

I have done some searching on stacking and the basics are prettyy straight forward, but I have found nothing that addresses different size lumber.

For example,

1. I have some 8, 10, 12, and 16ft 2x material. Since it does not come off the mill in order of longest to shortest how do I deal with that?
2. What about mixed species? I have mostly pine, but also some red oak and white oak.  How do I incorporate it all.

also, since I have much pine and little other, there is not enough of the hardwoods to merit a large stack. I also plan to use the pine very soon for barn and shed.

If there is a thread that answers these questions, I would be glad of a link.

In my searching for stacking information, I watched a Norwood video of a gentlemen stacking for air dry and instead of sheet metal, he just uses the initial slab to weigh down the lumber beneath and protect it from the direct sun. I liked that. I thought I needed to run out and buy some tin, but thought I would use this technique, at least in the near term.

Also, what do you do with all the leftover pieces of random sized wood? Does it go to the firewood pile? Seems a shame to lose it, but I can't make sense of how to dry such a random lot of pieces.

Thank you for your counsel.

-Mike

Here is pic of norwood video stack:


 

Here is some of my 2x material 8ft, 12ft, and 16ft


 

random sized stuff on some 2x


 

[doc henderson]

Mike, I have had good luck stacking each log its self.  the wider stack does add some stability.  you have to have the same thickness across the pile in each layer so it does not try to twist subsequent layers.  wide is nice for variable width.  Tall is better for same width but variable thickness.  I use metal strapping but considering change to nylon or polyethylene. so I can re-tension as it dries.  i used to keep allot of the half round flitches, and some times they are good to put on the top to shed water and not damage the boards underneath from the strapping.  now I put all the wast wood from the cant on a diff. pallet to use for rustic benches and or firewood




 




 


they can be moved and used separate from other wood.  I can usually move a stack with a 2 wheel cart in my shop.  i use forks out side

[terrifictimbersllc]

Also, what do you do with all the leftover pieces of random sized wood? Does it go to the firewood pile? Seems a shame to lose it

You CAN put the random ones in the firewood pile, and when you run across them again, they'll be air dry.  Then you can decide whether they go in the stove or not.

Unfortunately my shop is full of little odd boards I felt sorry for,  while the good ones are stacked where I've forgotten about them.

[doc henderson]

lots of info on stickering on the net.  @Wood Doctor  gene wengert has written about it.  Lots of debate, but it needs to allow airflow and keep the boards straight.  some recommend 2 stickers on the ends to slow end split and of course end sealer be it paint or anchorseal , helps if applied early.  I will try to add links as I find them.  I bought a book on drying hardwood and I think gene has published extensively as well.  He may chime in and can give links and direction.  You are off to a good start.  made some lumber.  when I first started, I kept every piece and now I am not as afraid to toss something in the burn pile.  

[terrifictimbersllc]

Whoa-DocH-I don't know if you know about the sticker police, who have cast a shadow of fear for some here, but you don't need to worry about that-just don't be surprised if you get recruited.  Just saying.  :D :D

[doc henderson]

Most will state not to mix species, but for air drying, I think you could mix red and white oak, or maybe pine and ERC.  Prob not in a formal kiln.  i kept allot in the beginning but i also do crafty junk on my engraver.  I was raised by a man who grew up in the depression, and he was raised by a man who had had polio and could not find work.  so I save allot!!! You could donate to a local school woodshop if it helps you sleep at night.  Thanks for bringing us along on your adventure.

[doc henderson]

Thanks TT  8)

[garyfg]

You need to stack and sticker your lumber on a slant so the water will run off pretty fast if its going to be outside for very long even if you cover it with tin or whatever you choose. I always have alot of trouble with the wind blowing off what ever I used. I would stack my lumber so it is all the same size in each stack so you won't have to move lumber around to get to the size you want. I know that will be alot of different stacks but it will save time in the end.

[doc henderson]

after I cut a cant, i wrap it with a couple ratchet straps and move it up in front of my shop on the concrete.  I flip the board after sweeping sawdust off, and sticker it as a log, so boards can be book matched after dry if needed/wanted. The top and bottom boards contain the most sapwood if the log was flat sawn.  i use wood from lowes that they give away from the bottom of bungs of wood.  the boards with a groove so that it is 1.5 inches off the ground and has a daddo for the strapping to pass under.  i tension with steel strapping to a "high C twang"  and can move the stack easily with pallet forks.  Your first logs and stacks look great and they will be the worst you ever do.!!!  Enjoy.

[YellowHammer]

Standardization of length for all the wood on a stacked pack is important for proper sticker placement. It is possible to play Tetris with wood stacks, but the can lead to problems.

We use open bottom pallets or skids for all our stacking.  It makes things very convenient.  Open bottoms prevent sticker staining.

We prefer web strapping for green wood as it can be retensioned easily and has some elasticity.  We use green poly for safety when transporting.  

We will sticker but not band a pack until its has approximately 800 to 1000 bdft.  We leave unfilled or partial packs "open" to deal with exactly the problem you describe, stacking uneven lengths or species.  When the wood is being stickered, it is simply sorted and added to a pack of the same length and species of previously stacked boards.  When it gets to a full pack, it is banded, labeled, and entered into our database and tracked from green to sold.  In our skids we put the runners at the same distances we place the stickers, so the runners actually become stickers, when stacked on top of each other.

You could use the same approach for your example of stacking red and white oak.  Put the red oak on one skid the white oak on another, and when done sawing, put the one skid on top of the other and haul them off.

The best weight to put on stickered stacks of lumber is other stickered stacks of lumber.  The runners apply high loads directly over the stickers of the pack underneath.


  







   

[BenTN]

Mike, try removing/replacing the word "service" from your facebook post. There are plenty of ads there for "sawmill for hire", "mobile sawmilling"