Help with TK B16 Blade Guide set

hookdrvr · June 23, 2013, 05:19:28 PM

I set my mill up, checked everything, made sure it was level, cut some nice boards and a 6x6x22 out of a cedar log on a 16' bed, a little challenging. On my second log, I started noticing that my cuts were a little wavy. My drive belt seemed to have a little more slack to it, I plan on adjusting it.
I did set the guide wheels up as my manual suggests, with the wheel barely touching the blade with the blade tight. I've researched numerous threads on here and noticed some saying that the guide rollers should be anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" below the point at which the guide wheel touches the blade???
Whats the best method to use to continually get straight, true, non-wavy lumber, considering that the log doesnt have a lot of knots, drive belt is properly adjusted, blade is sharp and properly set?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

redbeard · June 23, 2013, 05:41:28 PM

My procedure is to lower the idle side roller at least a 1/8" down on a fully tension blade and use a torpedo level (a good magnetic one) and level the blade by adjusting the drive side roller with Two 3/4" open end wrenches. Make sure you spread the rollers at least 16" apart. Then slide them in and out and check for level. A blade dive or a rise can hamper this adjustment. I also use the level on second cut. Even though my log stops are plumb. When sawing beams n cants

Larry · June 23, 2013, 05:56:43 PM

Does your band run on steel wheels or "V" belts?

ladylake · June 23, 2013, 06:00:17 PM

I run 1/4" down pressure and would not run less as it gives the guide rollers better control over the blade for straighter cuts. Also run the back flange about 1/4" or a bit less behind the blade. Steve

ladylake · June 23, 2013, 06:05:14 PM

Also time after time on custom sawing jobs I get complaints about bandsaws cutting bad lumber, get those mills cutting straight except for wide spruce. Anyone figure out how to cut 20" wide spruce straight yet. Steve

redbeard · June 23, 2013, 06:51:15 PM

Only time I had good wide board cuts on spruce was when it was frozen which is getting rare in this country. I only like to cut 6"-8" wide boards.

ladylake · June 23, 2013, 06:56:26 PM

I cut a bunch of spruce last week, 12" or less was fine, 20" was %$#$^**. Seems like less hook and more set works the best, just too see I'm going to try a blade a 0 hook in those wide ones. Steve

bama20a · June 23, 2013, 06:58:57 PM

Quote from: Larry on June 23, 2013, 05:56:43 PM
Does your band run on steel wheels or "V" belts?

The b16 has steel wheels.
I'd call timberking, They will send you a owners guide,They sent me one free has alot of info-on sitting the mill up.

Ga Mtn Man · June 23, 2013, 09:24:23 PM

I would take the advise of those who have years of sawing with similar mills under their belts.

hookdrvr · June 24, 2013, 08:36:29 AM

Thanks for the replies. My mill does have the steel wheels, no belts, as mentioned by bama20a. I do have the manuals for the mill, but instructions seem a little vague. I'll try the leveling technique and running 1/4 down on the guide wheels. I did set the wheels so that the back edge of the blade is about 1/4" from the back edge of the guide wheel.
Can the guide wheels be rebuilt, rather a new bearing pressed out and replaced with a new one? That is considering that the wheel surface isn't worn out. I noticed my idle side wheel has a little play in it, I may need to swap it out.

Happycamper · June 24, 2013, 09:10:45 AM

hookdrvr,
By the time you have cut several boards and a 6 X 6 X 22' the blade set will have changed considerably with the knots in the cedar. Try resetting the blade.
Jim

hookdrvr · June 24, 2013, 09:21:37 AM

Happy camper,
Does it matter if the cedar is green or seasoned? The log I cut saturday has been down for about two years. I'm planning on dropping some more trees today and milling them later this week if the weather holds. For now, my only option for setting is to send the blades back to Cooks. I guess I need to find someone local who can check the set for me.

BTW, very true quote in your sig. Nice.

Ga Mtn Man · June 24, 2013, 09:33:46 AM

Yes, the bearings in the guide rollers can be replaced.

redbeard · June 24, 2013, 10:01:30 AM

Time to change bearings if you can move guide roller. You will notice a huge difference when you get your guide rollers all plumbed even across with blade wheels, level vertical and find the blade 1/8"-1/4" deflection that works best.

hookdrvr · June 24, 2013, 10:08:10 AM

Good to know info. I have about 20 large cedars to drop this afternoon. I should be able to pull the guide rollers off and get the old bearings pressed out. Theres a BDI store locally where I can get the bearings from. Hopefully I can get these swapped out before the weekend. I have a barn to build!!

pineywoods · June 24, 2013, 10:57:07 AM

Quote from: hookdrvr on June 24, 2013, 09:21:37 AM
For now, my only option for setting is to send the blades back to Cooks. I guess I need to find someone local who can check the set for me.

click here for a simple solution
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50749.msg732898.html#msg732898

Larry · June 24, 2013, 11:13:03 AM

One thing about cedar. It is soft and saws really fast/easy. The trouble that causes waves are all the hard knots. You have to know when to go slow and when your blade is getting dull...hard to tell in cedar because it saws so easy.

You might call TK and chat with them a bit about your steel wheels. Especially if your band wanders around.

hookdrvr · June 24, 2013, 11:16:48 AM

Piney,
Thanks for the link. I think I may need to make one of those, knock the dust off my old welder.

Larry, that makes sense about the soft wood and knots. My band wheels are good, bearings are tight, just the guide rollers, or at least the one on the idle side. If I rebuild the one, I'm doing them both so I know what I have.

hookdrvr · July 03, 2013, 10:09:25 AM

I replaced the bearings in the guide rollers. I'm guessin at some point the bearing in the idle side roller has seized up and spun in the roller. The new bearing was loose going in and allows some movement. There is also .003ths difference between the front edge and rear of the roller. I was able to get better cuts after getting the blade flat/level/ aligned to the mill bed. But decided to go ahead and purchase new rollers and greasable bolts from Cooks.

Happycamper · July 03, 2013, 06:28:11 PM

hookdrvr,
Dry cedar knots will be much harder than green and the blade will ride up or down especially if going quickly through the log. I find if I go slow through the knots it doesn't do that.
pineywoods posted a home made setter which works very well and I made one and use it. pineywoods dual tooth setter.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50749.msg732898.html#msg732898

redbeard · July 03, 2013, 11:46:10 PM

The bearings should fit tight. If the bearings were failing you probably have some flat spots on the rollers they can be machined down smooth a few times but the hardness goes away. Paint some lines on the back of rollers it helps to make sure there spinning.