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Milling and using oak posts/timbers

Started by IowaAl, July 13, 2016, 09:54:45 PM

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IowaAl

Hello guys...new here an have some questions. Name is Al an I live in north central iowa. Here's what I have going....going to build a deck around house. Was planning on chainsaw milling my posts an beams for the roof out of oak. My main question is , can I cut my posts from freshly felled logs an use them an let them dry in place? Or will they have to be dried in the normal manner? Will they twist an Crack an get all sorts of messed up or will they be reasonable?

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, IowaAl.
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IowaAl

Hello guys...new here an have some questions. Name is Al an I live in north central iowa. Here's what I have going....going to build a deck around house. Was planning on chainsaw milling my posts an beams for the roof out of oak. My main question is , can I cut my posts from freshly felled logs an use them an let them dry in place? Or will they have to be dried in the normal manner? Will they twist an Crack an get all sorts of messed up or will they be reasonable?

IowaAl

Thank you! Just realised I posted this in wrong area. I copied my post to the proper area of drying questions but can't figure out how to delete it here...

Note from Admin:  The two topics have been merged.

Czech_Made

I dont think you have the option to delete post at FF.

Czech_Made

I would say it depends on many things.

End cracking can be prevented by covering fresh cut, I use hot melted candles on wood I really care for.

Turn and twist - I am sure somebody can elaborate better than me :)

Welcome.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Cracking is likely.  Without pressure treating red oak and the sapwood of white oak will soon begin to rot if it gets wet.  Some warp and shrinkage as they dry to 12% can be expected.  If you are in an area where there is a building inspector, the beams without a grade stamp, may not be acceptable, especially if they have knots and a long span.  This plan needs some revision.

Are you near Forest City?  I'll be there Sunday for a week.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

IowaAl

Yes I live just 15 miles from forest city.

dboyt

Main thing is to think about shrinkage.  About 5% in width and thickness, and .1% in length.  This means that 8" wide boards put on green will have a 3/8" gap when the wood is air dry.  If you're ok with that, go for it!  Oak is much easier to nail when it is green.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

carykong

Oak post and beam may have more tendency to crack and check than pine but is strong
Green installation is fine particularly if the post and beam dimension is robust

fishfighter

They will crack. Paint the ends real good to seal. That helps some of the checking on the ends. They will turn real dark in color.

I have some beams that are fresh milled about a month ago and there is a lot of cracks. I will be installing them maybe this weekend.

Roy Beauchamp

Quote from: carykong on July 15, 2016, 11:09:52 AM
Oak post and beam may have more tendency to crack and check than pine but is strong
Green installation is fine particularly if the post and beam dimension is robust
I am planning to do the exact same thing- we are milling up some mature redoak that came down about a month ago and milling into posts for a friends porch. The size are 8"x 8" and we will try and avoid as much sapwood as possible. We will be anchor sealing the ends of the posts. We will start milling on monday, Ill try and post some pics
helpful information. thanks

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