.96 cents a CC

[NorCalKuma]

Well... could not pass it up.  Found a 52cc Chinsaw for $50.  It will be in good company with the Sears Craftsman, also a Chinsaw, that has served well but has a bent crank. Not terribly serious, but not good either and very obvious when rotating the chain and looking at the drum. And when checking the chain for tightness as it is rotating. Their are large, thick, grape vines growing on some of the oaks. Started to cut one and... well you heard the story before. Ughh... a $50 replacement is something I can live with.  Just had a thought, the Craftsman is now the large thick grape vine saw.  

I recently posted a 2n1 sharpener clone review and now this Chinsaw. Before flaming me and calling me a commy, I recently bought an Echo cs352. The Echo is the goto saw for probably 80% of the cuts. Also, the Craftsman was bought in the US. As was my Harley... alright, flame on;)


btw- There a few left at that price.

[Jeff]

This forum does not tolerate flaming, or flame fanning. Just so you understand going forward.

[luap]

 I  bought a new craftsman saw in the seventies that the chain would tighten, loosen as it rotated around the bar. The cause was the id of the sprocket was off center. Replaced the sprocket and all was good.

[NorCalKuma]

Decided to check again. Removed the drum, clutch, bearing, plug, gave it a pull and it is the crank.

Chinsaw was shipped. Can use the Craftsman 18" bar and chains with it.  If it arrives, and in one piece

[luap]

If that was mine, I would check it with a dial indicator and whack it with a heavy brass or copper hammer. 

[NorCalKuma]

Thought about it but it runs great and has not thrown a chain.  Beating on things for me always start with a good approach and intentions. If that doesnt work, then hammer size and force increases... until something gives. And the outcome is usually iffy at best   ;)

These MTD/Craftsman/Remington/Chinsaws are not rebuildable. The short block is the replacement part. For me it does not make sense to beat on it until it displays some problems.

[luap]

I know that sounds crude but the actual process is more precise. A dial indicator tells you how much run out and where. You mark the shaft with a sharpie to know exactly where to apply the force. A heavy soft hammer can apply a controlled amount of force. Check the run out each time. Usually  a jig can be built for most shaft straightening jobs that don't involve hammers. You know your limitations well enough to not mess it up and leave well enough alone.