Home Depot chainsaw sharpener

[Magicman]

Same size carbide cutter as the file that is used on the chain.  I have no idea how long the cutters last because even after cleaning up a badly misused chain, this one shows no indication of being dull.

It will resharpen a chain at least as fast as hand filing....probably faster.

[YellowHammer]

I'm a chainsaw sharpening wannabe, and have tried most everything out there, at least what I can find.  I buck a lot of dirty logs on our log deck and eat chains.

I've owned a one of those cheapies like HF.  The biggest issue I had was the slop in the arm so that it was difficult to get a good even grind on all the teeth.  On the other hand it was easy to do a polish grind because there was so much slack in the drop that I could make the second grind just by putting side pressure on the arm for the second pass.  The wheels burn th tips and I gave mine away to the garbage can.

I have one of the Timberline sharpeners and it is a precision tool but the issue I had with it is that I hand file a lot, and the Timberline is so precise, I had to spend time cleaning up my teeth where where I misfiled them a tad.  So once you start using it, don't hand file, just refile with this and it works good.  This thing will put on an edge that is sharper than factory and you'd better use gloves when using this or you will cut yourself on the chain.  Its that sharp.  I've worn some cutters out, but it was because I got tired of hand cranking and chucked them into my electric drill.

I've also used the Stihl version of the Dremel sharpener, but although handy, I kept wearing out the little stones and need to have a 12 volt battery by my workbench.  Good machine, but I gave mine to my brother. 

I hand sharpen a lot, and can't say I'm that good at it, but I get by and after awhile, get pretty fast at it.  The key is to touch up the chain frequently, every couple tanks of gas, and use new files.

I've also used the Stihl file jig, it works well, and is more accurate, for me that hand sharpening because it forces the file up better to get under the top plate and put a good edge on it.  Don't forget to take down the rakers or the chain will never cut.  Stihl makes a jig for that or do it by eye.

I haven't used the new Stihl all in one jig, looks pretty cool. 

Currently, I'm using the same sharpener my chainsaw dealer uses, the Stihl USG sharpener with a CBN wheel.  Oh wow is about all I can say.  I noticed how tight and slop free the travel was and asked him how many chains they sharpened with it and he shrugged and said, "about 10 years worth."  So I bought a new one from him.  They come with a pretty good grinding wheel, but CBN is better.  Very precise and fast machine.  Trouble is, I cant take it out in the log yard with me, so I hand file a few times, then bring the chains to the workbench and true them all up again. 

So, one note that still is mystery to me, and keeps me trying to get better at sharpening by hand.  One day @customsawyer came over and I asked him to show me his techniques of hand filing (I thought I was pretty good, but...) and he did one of my chains, file only, no jig, and he made it magic sharp, quickly, and I am still trying to get that good.  So I've seen it, and in the right hands, a $1 file is the best and least expensive sharpener.

[Magicman]

I have one of the Timberline sharpeners and it is a precision tool but the issue I had with it is that I hand file a lot, and the Timberline is so precise, I had to spend time cleaning up my teeth where where I misfiled them a tad. So once you start using it, don't hand file, just refile with this and it works good. This thing will put on an edge that is sharper than factory and you'd better use gloves when using this or you will cut yourself on the chain. Its that sharp.

This was my experience.  I can certainly hand file a chain but not as exact and as precise as the Timberline sharpens.

Lumbermen's Equipment Digest still shows $15 off of online purchases with Promo Code: lumber19

[albert001]

Same size carbide cutter as the file that is used on the chain.  I have no idea how long the cutters last because even after cleaning up a badly misused chain, this one shows no indication of being dull.

It will resharpen a chain at least as fast as hand filing....probably faster.

I don't know the size file used to sharpen the chain, but seem to remember the chain is a 3/8" low profile?

I purchased the MS-170 with two additional chains from Tractor Supply and then gave it to a friend whose cleaning up property of heavy brush, an old manufactured home and an old fiberglass boat.

We're trying to get the fire dept. to burn the mobile home and brush, but first needed to spend $500.00 for an Asbestos test of which they found 3% asbestos in some of the window caulking which we had to remove and pay another $100.00 for the garage dump to dispose (when given to them it appeared they just dumped it along with their other garbage). The fire dept postponed the demo burn as their was enough people.

We're hoping the fire dept will burn the fiberglass boat. if not able we plan on cutting it up with the MS-170 placing it into a large rented dumpster.

[trapper]

Got the timberline sharpener.   At first i was a bit disapointed in it.  Found if I go around twice taking a very light cut the first time it works good for me.  I suck at hand fileing.
 Lumbermen's Equipment Digest still shows $15 off of online purchases with Promo Code: lumber 20

[Randy1949]

Why is there not a cheaper electric grinder that will grind full, square chisel chain?  I don't grind enough chains to spend $1100.00  but would think twice if the price was around $500.00.    Is the cost to build one too complicated?

[Tacotodd]

I am wanting/willing to try square filing by hand but the angles for a machine MAY be something that an inexpensive machine cannot at this time replicate properly. The grinding stone must have the same shape on all of the cutters or it's not going to perform properly. Plus occasionally you have to remove the gullet back to within 1/8" of the cutting edge or you are in the same boat. This is what I know so far.

[Real1shepherd]

I'm also looking at the Oregon 310-120 and sharpeners that replace the Oregon 310-120 which run around $75.00.

Something came up on some property where were burning an old building and removing an ~18 foot fiberglass boat.

After looking at options the least expensive method to get rid of the boat is to cut it up into 4' or smaller sections and dispose of it at  a local  dump. The boat has no fluids, oil, fuel, etc. only an older Merc inboard / outboard motor.


Anyway we experimented cutting it with one of our chainsaws which goes through the wood and fiberglass very easily. Any metal pieces of the hull, etc. can be cut with a sawsall.


However cutting through fiberglass and wood isn't quite the same as cutting a tree so some caution is required. A sharpener will help keep the chain sharp, while frequently checking for chain tightness.

I'd be very cautious of that fiberglass dust.....wear a good mask! I've known people that worked on lapping up fiberglass boat hulls and the ones not cautious about the dust had severe respiratory problems when they got older.

The stuff is inert and once in your lungs, it stays in there.

Kevin

[Old Greenhorn]

Why is there not a cheaper electric grinder that will grind full, square chisel chain?  I don't grind enough chains to spend $1100.00  but would think twice if the price was around $500.00.    Is the cost to build one too complicated?

This is a great question and one I have asked myself many many times. Getting that square corner to break at the precise point where the top plate meets the side plate is going to require very good repeatability in the machine. Having started my career half a century ago as a cutter grinders apprentice working with sub .0005" tolerances all the time, I think I have a grip on what is required. I jsut wish I could get a look at one of those Silvey machines, but I don't think there is one within 500 miles of me. I can't imagine somebody who understands cutter geometry requirements could not come up with a mod to make it happen.
 Now, having said that, I hand file all my chains because removing the chain just adds a lot of time that I won't give up. BUT having a machine to recondition the chain from time to time and reshape round chains would be really nice because this takes a lot of time to do by hand.
 This 'project' will remain in the back of my mind until I figure it out or get dead, whichever comes first. ;D :D

[Tom King]

Didn't read the second page....

FORGET the chainsaw for cutting up the boat.  I had a boat business for years, and also am familiar with using all sorts of power tools for that, and other things.

There is no worse job than taking any kind of power saw to fiberglass.  I won't even go into all the reasons why.

Get the cheapest reciprocating saw (Sawzall type), and use a water hose right at the cutting point.  You may end up ruining the saw, but probably not.  It's much better than ruining your lungs, and your skin.

[Real1shepherd]

Why is there not a cheaper electric grinder that will grind full, square chisel chain?  I don't grind enough chains to spend $1100.00  but would think twice if the price was around $500.00.    Is the cost to build one too complicated?

This is a great question and one I have asked myself many many times. Getting that square corner to break at the precise point where the top plate meets the side plate is going to require very good repeatability in the machine. Having started my career half a century ago as a cutter grinders apprentice working with sub .0005" tolerances all the time, I think I have a grip on what is required. I jsut wish I could get a look at one of those Silvey machines, but I don't think there is one within 500 miles of me. I can't imagine somebody who understands cutter geometry requirements could not come up with a mod to make it happen.
Now, having said that, I hand file all my chains because removing the chain just adds a lot of time that I won't give up. BUT having a machine to recondition the chain from time to time and reshape round chains would be really nice because this takes a lot of time to do by hand.
This 'project' will remain in the back of my mind until I figure it out or get dead, whichever comes first. ;D :D

Well, Granberg for example, did make a File 'n Joint jig for square file chisel chain. I've had it since the '70's. Their present base part of the jig(bottom metal) is the same thing I found out and replaced my old with that.

Where it gets sticky is in how they designed the actual file jig part. If you are a machinist or know one familiar in small mock up, it would be easy to replicate/improve on mine.

It wasn't the best design because of the cheap pot metal alloys they used. I imagine the original prototype was steel. I use mine all the time, but I have put in parts of my own design to compensate for broken or missing stuff. Finding out that their standard base was the same, helped me out a lot.

The original jig took the double bevel Pferd file.

Silvey is out of business. Madsen's has a grinder similar, but at a high cost. They also have Silvey parts. They got somebody to manufacturer a Silvey type 40ton aluminum tree jack. Most of you will never use a tree jack, but they are incredibly efficient on larger trees. However, Madsen's jack is over $1,000.  Imagine being able to pack a 40ton jack in a leather pouch...we did. We also packed the larger hydraulic Silvey series that had multiple jacks.....although one person was usually designated to pack those puppies from tree to tree.

Kevin

[Philbert]

One of the issues with the 'cheap' grinders is that they come with 'cheap' grinding wheels.  If you think about it, good quality, sharp chains make all the difference when using a chainsaw.  Better quality wheels make a huge difference when using a chain grinder.  

A few years back I did some comparisons of various '$30' 4" diameter grinders, from HF, eBay, etc.  I included the Oregon grinder, even though it was more like $80.  Most came equipped with very fine grit wheels, which would polish a cutting edge, but not shape it efficiently.  Putting better quality, vitreous grinding wheels on these made a big difference.  But add $24/per wheel to the cost of the grinder, and pretty soon you are at the cost of a mid-range grinder.  

Also, there was some variation between manufacturers, where the 7/8" wheel I.D. was sometimes assumed to be equivalent to 22mm: they are NOT, and things can get exciting when the wrong wheel is used.

These grinders had fixed grinding angles, and limited power for grinding back damaged / 'rocked' cutters.  But they were light, and cheap, and small: could be OK for occasional use, with the right wheels, if the user is content with the default angles, and is just touching up edges.  But if you want to fix damaged wheels, want custom angles, or plan to sharpen any volume, I recommend a larger, better quality grinder.

Some of the 5-3/4" 'clone' grinders also come with cheap wheels.  For about $200 you can buy one of the better grinders, with the better Italian wheels, if you shop around.

Philbert