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Echo cs-590 upgrade

Started by Bruno of NH, November 05, 2020, 12:25:09 PM

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Bruno of NH

The cs-590 got a new full wrap aluminum handle today.
If anyone needs a handle they can have the old one it's like new.

 

 
Just pay shipping 
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

sawguy21

That is a funky looking handle, I wonder why the felt the need to connect it at the bottom over the clutch cover. Just don't drop a tree on it. :D
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Mountain_d

Can you sum up the advantages of the full wrap handle? I never used one. 
Mountain
1978 TJ 230E 3.9L Cummins 4B, Husky 372XP, Husky 61, Husky 266XP, JRed 625, Husky 265RX clearing saw,  Woodmizer LT40HD 1995, Kubota 4950DT (53hp 4WD), Wallenstein V90 Skidding Winch, John Deere 610 backhoe, 1995 Volvo White GMC WCA42T SA Dump Truck, 2004 Ford F-250SD 4WD, , Central Boiler OW

Real1shepherd

@Mountain-d....It's a faller thing. I won't have a saw without a full-wrap, but that's usually a pro thing. It's hard or unsafe to hold a saw on the clutch side, turned sideways with a regular wrap. Full-wraps give you the flexibility to hold the saw safely when on either side fellin'.

@sawguy21....most full wraps if designed properly will continue to under the clutch cover for more strength....sometimes with a AV where it connects there. All these old saws you see with a bell or bulb doodad on that end, have actually been cut off there because the owner couldn't(or wouldn't) find the AV to finish the wrap connection to the saw. It completes the design and strengthens the integrity of the wrap. Ahhh... I see where you said "over" not "under" the clutch cover. You probably knew all this about the older saws.

Jonsered for example, quit making that AV available and so most owners just cut the wrap and put some sort of doodad on the end where the cut was. I've had people vehemently argue with me that those cut wraps were factory.......until I showed them the original setup. However, since the Jonsereds 110/111/111S is a dated late 60's design I've never seen their full wrap continue to the saw under the clutch cover. Husky did it differently on the 2100/2101 and actually so did Jonsered later on with like the 2094/2095....but they all connect back to the saw on the clutch side. Jonsered(s) liked to have a AV on both the bottom ends of a full-wrap, while Husky started with an AV on the recoil side and bolted back to the saw body underneath on the clutch side where they split the full-wrap. Personally, I like the two AV design the best.....more isolation from the motor, the easier on your hands.

The different Swede saws marques all had their own system design for full-wraps. Yrs ago I found out that the saws were sent over to NA without the full-wraps and they had installers/subcontractors put them on here to their specification.

A lot of owners in the Midwest and the east coast hate them, don't want them. Like I said, I won't have a pro saw without one for the reasons above.

Kevin

sawguy21

I remember getting fallers saws in the shop with bent full wrap handles, I sometimes had to cut them off to remove the bar and chain. I had an interesting conversation with WorkSafe BC. A co worker insisted a saw equipped with a 24" or longer bar was illegal without one, we lost sales because of his attititude. I was told there are no regulations regarding them but the mandatory faller training course demanded students saws be equipped. We only see them on the fallers saws with long bars that cut big timber from both sides, many hate them because they get in the way.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Real1shepherd

It all depends on what you learn with. The Jonsereds 90 I have with a 32" bar is a real pain without a full-wrap. My 621 doesn't have one either, but I don't fall with that so it's OK.

They were never mandatory when I was a faller, but everyone had them on their saws. Some designs are better than others.  I hate the older saws with HUGE full-wraps as they catch on brush in the woods......like the monster they put on the J'reds 111S, as an example. In comparison the Husky 2100/2101 is svelte. But you make them too svelte and you have trouble working on your saw with them onboard.....I'd say the 2100/2101 full-wrap is borderline in that respect....but it's OK.  

Jonsereds over-engineered the full-wrap in the 910 and it was bizarre....to say the least. Partner saws with full-wraps during that period were cumbersome, heavy beasts. After all, it wasn't the full-wraps that failed in the J'reds 910, it was the rear handle AV's. You can see the Partner handle design influence in the J'reds 920 and 930.....not to my liking.

You only bend a full-wrap if a skidder runs over it or a log falls on it....they're very durable geometry. The full-wrap on the J'red 2094/95 is just right....they designed it well. Same on the Husky 394/395.

Kevin

Bruno of NH

I like them for the roll bar effect.
My help will set a running saw on top of any pile only to watch it roll off onto the ground and break something. 
I personally like the balance it adds to the saw.
I haven't fell a tree since having no knee joints left.
Don't want to move that slow for safety reasons. 
One of the first things I will do when I get new knees is fell a tree.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Real1shepherd

LOL!! Well, never thought of it that way and you seem to have the worst tales about help. One of my helpers threw some wood posts on top of my J'reds 80's with a full-wrap and broke it. So, they're not totally invincible.

Kevin 

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