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Jonsered 2152 bar oil leak

Started by SnoJetter, March 18, 2021, 09:53:06 PM

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SnoJetter

I've got two 2152's and both leak bar oil. Yes, I know lots of saws leak a little bit. Some of mine I can store on their side to negate the leak; others I store bar "up." These 2152's I can store bar "down" to prevent the leak, but I'd like to fix the leak if possible. I also have opened the oil cap to relieve pressure and that didn't work. This isn't a major Exxon Valdez-type spill, but it's enough of a leak to leave a puddle about 2-3" diameter overnight when sitting upright. I tore one of the saws down to the oil pump and it appears it's coming from where the pump meets the rubber hose (see photo - note the pump screw has been removed, it's not actually missing). The oil looks to be pooling underneath that "seal" and then gravity brings it down to pool in the void underneath the pump part number.

The obvious answer is to replace the hose. But before I spend $15 on the replacement part, my question is if this is indeed the typical point of a leak on these saws or if perhaps there is a weak spot in the casting itself that is prone to leaking and requires a different fix (or perhaps no fix at all - just live with it)?

As a side note, I have a pair of 2150's which do not leak at all. Being plastic cases vs. metal, and having a bit of a different oil line arrangement, I wonder if the 2150 design just seals better. What does the collective wisdom think?




Spike60

Changing the oil lines will probably fix it. Those lines were improved with some additional "ribs" to help them seal to the case. Occasionally they can just get old and shrink a little bit.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

SnoJetter

Thanks, Bob - that's what I am hoping for.

I had to replace an oil line on a lowly MS180 recently that wasn't oiling at all.  The rubber was old, had gotten a little hard and I suppose shrunk enough that it wasn't sealing to the pump and was just pulling air rather than oil.

I guess it happens to all brands...

Tacotodd

Yes, to all brands. And listen to @Spike60 , because if it's a Husqvarna or Jonsered, he's going to be "The Man"!
After all, It's what he does for a living.
Trying harder everyday.

SnoJetter

It took almost two weeks, but my oil lines finally showed up.  I was surprised as everything else I've ordered from the local Husky dealer in recent months has arrived in a matter of a few days.  At least they are here.  Unfortunately, I don't have a free evening to work on the saws until probably Friday.  Will update if this is indeed the fix.

axeman2021

Hope we hear it worked good luck.

mike_belben

The plastic case ones are prone to loosen the muffler and blow exhaust at the oil tank until it melts a hole in it. Youll see it behind the muffler.
Praise The Lord

SnoJetter

Quote from: mike_belben on March 31, 2021, 01:09:51 AM
The plastic case ones are prone to loosen the muffler and blow exhaust at the oil tank until it melts a hole in it. Youll see it behind the muffler.
Before I acquired it, one of my 2150's actually ate a hole through the side of the muffler and that exhaust stream melted a large hole into the oil reservoir.  My repair was a large flange bolt head along with some JB weld.  So far it's holding just fine...but we'll see what the long term brings.

The two subject saws of this thread are 2152's (mag cases), so burning or melting aren't the problem in this case.

John Mc

Quote from: Spike60 on March 19, 2021, 06:55:38 AM
Changing the oil lines will probably fix it. Those lines were improved with some additional "ribs" to help them seal to the case. Occasionally they can just get old and shrink a little bit.
@Spike60 I've got a 2005 2152 that has leaked oil almost since the day I bought it. It seems to be coming from the same area as SnoJetter's. Can you share the part number I need to order to replace this line?
Is the installation very tough to figure out, or are things fairly obvious once I get in there?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

John; can't get the part number from home, but will post it tomorrow from the store. Need to pull the clutch and oil pump, but a pretty straightforward installation.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

Spike60

Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

@Spike60 - I'm picking up that part today from a local dealer.

Do you recommend putting some type of sealant on the barb/tube connection, or should it hold up OK with just the bare parts pressed together? If a sealant is used, what do you recommend?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

I never use any type of sealant. But be sure to clean that whole in the crankcase good before installing. It is about the messiest part of the saw to work on and it seems like there always another chunk of crud that wants to jump in that hole.  :)
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

SnoJetter

I wasn't able to get to the shop until yesterday afternoon to install the new oil line on my first 2152.  @Spike60 is right, that is a very dirty part of the saw.  Add the extra oil free-flowing around there and it's a mess to clean up.!  I re-assembled the saw and let it sit overnight with a full oil reservoir and as of his morning, nothing pooled underneath.  I'll check again tonight, and of course will have to see what happens after I run it.  So far so good.

Interestingly enough, my second leaky 2152 is the saw I used most this weekend to salvage a bunch of firewood.  It sat in my wood trailer overnight...no oil leak (and the tank is not empty).

@John Mc if you haven't torn your saw apart yet, be assured it's a very straight-forward disassembly process.  The only minor snag might be spinning the clutch off the crank (LH threads, be aware).  I have the special clutch nut "socket" that makes the job a breeze with an impact wrench.  I'm sure there's a way around that if you don't have the tool.  Otherwise, a 4mm allen key and a philips screwdriver are all you need.  

John Mc

Thanks, SnoJetter. I've had the clutch off several times before. I tried one of the special clutch socket tools the last time, when I was replacing the drive sprocket. I probably should have stuck with the wrench, since using an impact wrench to loosen it just destroyed the tool (and yes, I did remember that it was left hand thread).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

My official way to test these oil hose repairs is to only fill the tank 1/2 way. Let it sit overnight on a white piece of cardboard without a bar and chain and have a look the next day. Topping it off introduces the chance that the oil could expand and weep out of the tank vent. In fact we recommaned that saws not be stored with either the oil or fuel tanks topped off for that reason.

Ever notice that just about every saw that is stored in a case seems to leak oil?   Every drop of residual oil that makes it into the case stays there. A genuine leak like we are dealing with here will have everything swimming in that oil. The saw, tools, extra chains, rags, sometimes the owners manuel. And I don't clean the cases; "I'll fix the saw by the weekend and that will give you a few days to clean out this case for when you pick it up." :)
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

 @Spike60 - the local dealer had the oiler hose in stock - or at least what he says the part is. The pat number was written a bit differently: 537 10 11-02 (same numbers, just laid out differently.) It said oiler hose, and I had not yet looked at mine, so I brought it home and disassembled my saw.

It appears I have a problem: the two parts don't match.

Here is what I pulled from my saw

 


and here is what a comparison of the ends of the old and new part look like:

 

The new part is still in its sealed Husqvarna Group factory packaging, dated 2018/07/08.

Looking up the part number on the web site of a former forum sponsor shows a picture of that part number, and it looks the same as what I got from my dealer. Is it possible you got the wrong part number, or is there something else going on here?  If having a hard time searching for the part number to fit a 2152. I did find one website which shows a part number 503 854 701. However, the pictures do not show any ribs where the hose goes in to the case. I makes me wonder if they have the old-style part?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

ooops, that's the early style you have. What would commonly be found on the 2149. Honestly didn't think that part change took place after the 49 was replaced by the 2152. I'll check the service bulletins and also get the other part number for you. The cases are different so the lines wont interchange as you see there. The newer set up uses a separate line from the pump to the bar plate.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

Spike60

 First 3-4 years of the 2152 did use that older line. Part number is 503 854 701. Still available @ $18. Sorry I steered you wrong on that one John.  :-[
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

Thanks, Spike.

Did they make any improvements to that older line design over the years, or it is still the same thing I pulled out of it?  What came out seems to be in decent shape - the rubber is still pliable, no cracks or other obvious issues.

I was really hoping to be able to fix this leaking oil issue. If the part has not been updated, is it still worth replacing? Is there anything else to check/do while I have it apart?

John
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

May have shrunk a little over the years. I don't think that part was ever changed; they just went to the 2 hose system and added some "nipples" to the oil pump. 

I'd still give it a shot and see if it works. Unfortunately, there really aren't a lot of things to try there. 
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

One more question for you, @Spike60 :

When I went to put the metal plate back on, I noticed that there was some rubbery goop on the back, along the rib that helps direct the oil from behind the plate outward and onto the bar. It was falling to pieces, so I cleaned it off. It looked amateurish, not a factory job, but it's hard to tell. I've had this saw since new, and I never put it there. It's possible that the dealer did, but I don't recall him ever working on that. (His answer when I complained about leaking was "they all do that".)

Should I put some sort of non-hardening gasket material there (being careful not to block the oil inlet? or just leave it bare?  I'm thinking that if the oil is making it this far when the saw is not running, I've got some other problem which should be addressed, but if you think I should put something hear, I've got stuff I can use.

It was all along both sides of the rib just above my finger in the photo.



 
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Spike60

Sorry John, missed this last question. The factory did put that stuff in there, but I never mess with that. Too fine a bead and all I'd do is make a mess.

How'd this project turn out? Did the new line get rid of the leak?
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

John Mc

The local shop did not have the correct line in stock, and I wanted to get it back together. I ended up just putting a bit of non-hardening sealant on my old line where is fits into the case (right where those added ribs were on the other style line that did not fit my saw). I also put a very small wipe of it on the oil pump, where it inserts into the oil line, being vary careful to do so in a way that did not risk plugging the oil hole.

I ran it for a few quick cuts, then set it on a clean plastic sheet (an empty bag of chicken feed). I've gotten busy with other things, so it's been sitting there for 3 days so far. There is a tiny bit of oil on the sheet, but I'm thinking that was just left over from running it. It's still oiling the bar, so at least I did not cause myself some other problem. So far no big puddle forming, so I'm hopeful that it took care of things.

Thanks for your help. I had not messed with an oil pump or hose before. If what I did did not take care of it, at least I know how to get in to that area now. If I do have to replace the hose with new, I should have no problems.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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