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Exposed beams

Started by Qweaver, December 26, 2005, 10:25:03 AM

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Qweaver

I started designing a 24'x32' cabin with 6' decks all around last winter and bought a WM this past spring and started felling and sawing lumber.  The design was a fairly conventional stick frame but with exposed rafters and collar ties.   Sometime during the summer I became aware of Timber Frame construction and have decided to build that way.  I bought timber framing books written by Tedd Benson and Jack Sobon and I'm now sawing big lumber and redesigning.
My major hurdle is that I would like to have the beams show from the outside as well as inside.  Benson makes a strong point that all wall structure should go on the outside of the frame.  I may end-up doing this but I would like to investigate placing the walls between the frame members.  Suggestions?  I'd insert an image if I knew how.
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Tony_T

Sheathing protects the beams from weather/moisture/rot.  I'd design an EXTRA long over hang on your roof.  Even with this wind drven rain still hit the beams.

Qweaver

The beams will be almost completely protected (except in very strong winds) as there are covered decks all the way around the house.  I'd put a plan view here if I could figure out how to insert a jpeg.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Furby


Norwiscutter

If the jump in your picture is your "S", I would like to see pictures of your  B, A, and E. 

As for exposed Beams, I wouldn't see any problem with it other than the weather resistance of the frame to the eliments.  That and the extra time it would take to frame in between each individual section.
Si vis pacem, para bellum.

Don P

With porch overhangs it doesn't sound like rain is going to be a problem. The only other thing I've heard is, I do remember seeing pictures one time of rot along the post where studwall infill framing was used. In that case, they came to the conclusion that the posts had shrunk away from the infill framing and left an airgap. Warm, moist interior air was meeting cold air in that gap and condensing, which lead to the rot. I guess maintaining a good vapor seal on the inner face especially would be something to be thinking about as you detail that area. I've wondered if its as simple as putting sill seal between the infill and frame there.




Qweaver

This is how I picture building the walls.  The left drawing was my original idea but now I'm fairly sure that I'll build the right hand method.
This is my first attempt to insert a jpeg so bear with me.
BTW, the jump picture is my first and only BASE jump and is a B for bridge.  I do have over 1500 skydives and intend to do a few more bridges but no ASEs
Quinton

           
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Jim_Rogers

Infill under or inside a frame can cause problems when everything starts to shrink. Your second drawing is a better method.
Not to be nit-picking but that 7x7 is probably a "post", as the definition of beam is a "horizontal" member, unless that is not a drawing in plan/top view.

Hope that helps....

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

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