Adding effects to logs.

[Dstrnad]

I was wondering if anyone knows of a resource for conditioning logs to achive a certain effect in the lumber. For example I like spalted maple flooring. I am not even sure if that is the correct term, but it's what I call it. Basically streaks of dark staining through out the lumber. I know, why would anyone want to ruin a perfectly good log. :D Anyway got me thinking if anyone has any tricks or methods to manipulate logs in this way or any other they may want to share.

[red oaks lumber]

saw it dead stack during the summer for a couple months and that shhould about do it.

[Tree Feller]

I would let the whole log(s) lie on the ground in a shady place during the summer months. That way you get complimentary spalting throughout the entire log when you saw it...just like grain or figure. Maple spalts very easily. Just be aware that there is often not a lot of time between awesomely spalted and too rotten to use.

[WDH]

Put the log out of the way on the ground and cover it with leaves for a summer.  Like Cody says, there is a fine line between spalting and rotten.  You might need to spray the log with a brew boiled up on a moonless night containing a little eye of newt and some toad tonsils  .

[Jay C. White Cloud]

As Cody and WDH has put it, "a fine line."  If I started writing now, I could fill a chapter on "spalting techniques and methods," they vary among species, but are best with syrup producers like maple and birch.  You can get it even in many species of pine, but that is hard and very rare achievement.  (involves sugar, rabbit droppings, and sour milk, with no guarantee)  Best way, is to get in with a sawyer that does a lot of maple, and when he hits a tree with it pay him to set it aside.  Also, if you are going to use it for something like flooring, you will need to spend the same amount in wood solidifiers, (epoxy type-not polyester.)  It is an art "growing spalt," and not for the impatient or easily frustrated.  If you go for it, and have the knack, you will love the outcome.

Regards,

jay

[Dstrnad]

Jay,

Could you elaborate on wood solidfiers? I am not familiar with that term.
Thanks

Dave

[Jemclimber]

I believe he is referring to an epoxy product that will help stabilize the wood, like thinned epoxy that will semi penetrate soft spots. Some companies do this under vacuum to get the product to leach in better. It's often done with smaller pieces for things like pen blanks or knife scales with punky wood.  I think member BusyBeaver was looking into this.  I'm a Jay too, so I thought I could answer.  ;)

[Jay C. White Cloud]

That's it (the "jay's" have it :D :D :D) I am currently looking into what "BusyBeaver" uses, but not sure if it is cost effective for large areas, or without vacuum pressure.  The better epoxy base products will soak in fine.  Some folks will use a polyester, as it is often thinner, (and stinky!!!) then top of with an epoxy before sanding everything down.  Like I said, it can be a lot of work, especially for floors.

[Dstrnad]

So would you mill the lumber completely apply the epoxy sand down then reapply for finish? Or would you apply the epoxy before milling t&g, etc. This does sound intensive for flooring, but now I am curious about the process.

[Jay C. White Cloud]

99% of the time, you are going to mill the bolt into whatever rough lumber size you normally would any of your lumber.  Now with spalt you can have a ample range of "softness."  Some will be very hard, (little pattern) while others, like the ones in my photos, with lots of pattern (very, very soft.)  When I milled that bolt, you could crush the board in your hand and ring it out like a sponge, water just ran out of it.  Could you use that type as a floor, maybe as a highlight, but if I did a whole floor in that for a client, I would have to charge about $100/ft² minimum.

So for a floor, you are going to let the wood air dry, then, depending on "softness" you may need to glue it to a backer material then cut to finish dimension.  I would toggle or spline joint it, lay it down in the space to check pattern, adjust accordingly, then apply the first coat of solidifier.  That's it, in a nutshell, of course there are all kinds of little steps I have left out for sake of time.  As I said, this subject could fill a chapter if not an entire book.

Regards,

jay

[Peter Drouin]

And don't forget the powder post beetle :D :D :D :D ;D ;)

[rambo]

As Cody and WDH has put it, "a fine line."  If I started writing now, I could fill a chapter on "spalting techniques and methods," they vary among species, but are best with syrup producers like maple and birch.  You can get it even in many species of pine, but that is hard and very rare achievement.  (involves sugar, rabbit droppings, and sour milk, with no guarantee)  Best way, is to get in with a sawyer that does a lot of maple, and when he hits a tree with it pay him to set it aside.  Also, if you are going to use it for something like flooring, you will need to spend the same amount in wood solidifiers, (epoxy type-not polyester.)  It is an art "growing spalt," and not for the impatient or easily frustrated.  If you go for it, and have the knack, you will love the outcome.

Regards,

jay

Jay,
Do you put your potion on the log? Or do you saw he log into lumber and then add your potion? I have been leaving logs lay for a couple of years to try to achieve spalt.