Does someone here run one of these automatic setters?
http://www.wood-mizer.eu/main/index.aspx?lc=ENU (http://www.wood-mizer.eu/main/index.aspx?lc=ENU)
that's the unit and theres a good youtube video..
Cheers
Justin
Hello,
we have the BMT250 here at our location. We have three, two we used every day one is set up for weird tooth spacing like 5/8 3/4 or 1 1/8" I guess I should say not average tooth spacing. We sharpen and set about 200 blades a day. Three grinders and two setters. We also have a wash station that cleans the blades and removes some of the set or makes the set even before going to the setter.
I have seen this setter in use but I am not sure it is available in the USA.
We have three of the BMS500 or something close to these, zero issues in 3 years. We sharpen about 600 to 800 blades a week at our location.
Hope this helps.
Marty
Justin,
I have one of the few US made versions of this setter. Really like it. It will hold tighter tolerances than any dual tooth setter, BMT200, BMT250,or any other brand marketed here in the US. Marty is right about BMT300 not being available here in the US. I wish they would release it here . I know 2 people that would love to own one. I have owned it for a number of years and it has set many blades. No issues.
QuoteIt will hold tighter tolerances than any dual tooth setter,
We are getting with in .001 so that is pretty tight. Don't blink! We have a tool called a master gauge we check and recheck every time we change hook angles or different customers.
Marty
Thanks for the replies
gmmills - it looks like an ideal setter for getting things perfect, and having the cleanest cut possible is more important to us than throughput..
Marty - sounds good, our agent in NZ is sugguesting the 250 however we don't currently 'de set' the teeth and get them consistent, for us that would just be another hassle, we do mess up some of the bands pretty bad so something we can just feed them onto and then watch it take care of overest/underset is very appealing.
Cheers
Justin
I run the BMT250 setter also. I am only able to get with in .002-.003 tolerance on it. It is a good setter but with the difference in how hard I run my blades may play into it. The wood I cut is a little more forgiving than some of the slower growing trees up North so it that is all the tighter tolerance that I need.
Jake,
The tolerances of .002- .003 are also the norm up here when using the BMT200 And BMT250,s. Had one local sawyer with a BMT 200 setter trying to hold accuracy to with in .001. After much frustration , put the BMT dual tooth setter on a shelf and purchased a WM single tooth setter. The only way, in the field, to hold the .001 tolerance was by using a single tooth setter.
Quote from: gmmills on August 03, 2015, 10:08:38 PM
The only way, in the field, to hold the .001 tolerance was by using a single tooth setter.
x2 Even then, the tooth's natural tendency to "spring back" after setting comes into play. That in itself can vary greatly within the same blade. Not to mention different coils of blade stock, type of steel it was manufactured from, quality control, etc.
Could be as much art as science. When I had a sharpening system in the '80s (my ex-partner got off with it), I was the anal-retentive saw sharpener and setter. We had the single tooth setter, and I was a perfectionist. I loves me some smooth boards.
When I bought this used mill without a sharpener, I loaded up on a bunch of new blades from W-M. I have to say, the original sharpening is better than back in the old days. I hope to get a grinder and setter before I have used my big stash up. I think you gents have talked me into going with a single tooth setter again. I am in no hurry and have lots of patience.
Yes, to me we love the clean cuts we get from using the single tooth setter, however we are needing to spend less time on the band maintenance, so speeding it up and keeping it consistent is what we want.
Interesting reading the manual for the bmt300 I see in there if you want it perfect it says to run it around twice to catch any of the spring back...
We are sawing lawsons cypress (port orford cedar) currently and the cuts are clean as a whistle and the bands come out needing very little work.
We put the usual hardwoods we saw back on the mill and the bands come out very different!
Cheers
Justin
Hello,
Our Resharp is very precise on getting the set exact. But I ask is all if we are trying to hard. If you have one tooth out of set then the lumber has a mark but if the set on all teeth is with-in .002 or .004 and all have a little different set would the marks still be there. I see some blades that are not exact that come in and cant think they would even cut. Gullets with waves, negative hook on the tooth, set that you can see out of wack and the customers seem to cut wood not sure how nice it looks. We had a customer demand we sharpen his blades regardless on what they look like before we started. He was sawing barn beams and lots of hardware. We did but we separated the blades we did not think would ever cut even though we sharpened them. He said his customers liked the marks on the lumber.
He called back this week and said we owed him a box of new blades because one box would not cut. ::). We had everything documented and his request did not get him anywhere.
This spring we also had a customer come in and said his blades would not cut and it was our fault. He was very disturbed, red faced, little mad. He brought the Oak beam to show us how bad it was cutting. I took one of his blades put in on a mill and sawed the cant while he was there watching. Cut fine. The wood he brought had marks and waves. I helped him out, showed him how to adjust the drive belt and some other things to check. He still was a little mad before he left. I called him the next week. He thanked us for taking the time to help him and that his drive belt was loose.
Thanks,
Marty
Resharp isn't an option for us "down under" in NZ.
And places I've talked to otherwise want a fortune and when I tried one did a worse job than we do already...
I bet you must get a few customers come through blaming everything but there own setup, cant say I would have the patience now days.. >:(
Cheers
Justin
I bet a lot of old timers laugh at me (a newbie) that goes builds a sawmill for $1280 and goes to the junkyard and brings home used Bandsaws blades and sharpens them with a dermal and everything works great.
It seem to me that everybody makes everything so hard. If you can see in your mind how thing are supposed to work then settin and sharpening is easy and not really a thing of art. I think I sawed a lot if logs so far. Most have been over 20 feet long and I'm still using my second junkyard blade. I still would be using number one but it broke. I will keep sharpening this one until it brakes. I like my cuts and I not having any problems. Cutting mostly hemlock.
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 04, 2015, 07:37:32 AM
I bet a lot of old timers laugh at me (a newbie) that goes builds a sawmill for $1280 and goes to the junkyard and brings home used Bandsaws blades and sharpens them with a dermal and everything works great.
It seem to me that everybody makes everything so hard. If you can see in your mind how thing are supposed to work then settin and sharpening is easy and not really a thing of art. I think I sawed a lot if logs so far. Most have been over 20 feet long and I'm still using my second junkyard blade. I still would be using number one but it broke. I will keep sharpening this one until it brakes. I like my cuts and I not having any problems. Cutting mostly hemlock.
Don't see anything wrong with this at all.
Many of us started out a little unconventional I would say!
Problem as you grow - is time is money, and I hate paying wages to watch someone painfully set bands all day (we are running a stock of around 50 bands) and I hate even more NOT to be running the mill because we are out of bands!
Cheers
Justin
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 04, 2015, 07:37:32 AM
I bet a lot of old timers laugh at me (a newbie) that goes builds a sawmill for $1280 and goes to the junkyard and brings home used Bandsaws blades and sharpens them with a dermal and everything works great.
It seem to me that everybody makes everything so hard. If you can see in your mind how thing are supposed to work then settin and sharpening is easy and not really a thing of art. I think I sawed a lot if logs so far. Most have been over 20 feet long and I'm still using my second junkyard blade. I still would be using number one but it broke. I will keep sharpening this one until it brakes. I like my cuts and I not having any problems. Cutting mostly hemlock.
We have a few members (very few) here on the Forestry Forum that use a band once, then toss it.
The reasoning was: "I need to be cutting, not sharpening or shipping blades"!
Boy, how I wished I lived near one of those members! ::)
"We are getting with in .001 so that is pretty tight. Don't blink! We have a tool called a master gauge we check and recheck every time we change hook angles or different customers."
Marty
Earlier you posted you were using a BMT250. This is the same model that I use. I would appreciate it if you could share with me your setup procedure as I am unable to get my blades this close. @MartyParsons (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1823)
Does anybody roll out the old set before resetting? I would think that would be the best way for a consistent accurate set.
Quote from: Chuck White on August 04, 2015, 05:56:23 PM
Boy, how I wished I lived near one of those members! ::)
It might crowded at the local dump.
Quote from: Larry on August 04, 2015, 07:03:56 PM
Does anybody roll out the old set before resetting? I would think that would be the best way for a consistent accurate set.
I can't see how I would. I figure the less I'm moving that steel around, the better. But all I have ever done is dinking around with a single tooth setter. I would just be putting set back in that was lost or ground away, not taking any out. The more thousandths I have to push back into a tooth, the farther past the goal line I might venture. I'm only likely to take set out if I've put too much in. But it's just zeroing in on the desired number.
It take me all of 5 min to sharpen a blade with a dermal.
I don't even take it off the mill....
Kbeitz
That dremel tool is probably good enough for you, but doubt it would be very acceptable for most when it comes to having a consistent sharpening job on a blade.
And glad it works for you.
Hello,
I sent custom sawyer a personal message.
Thanks
Marty
Marty,
I know you think a lot of us are already trying too hard, but I'd sure be interested in hearing a little more about your 'master gauge'. Maybe even post a picture of it? Of course, if it is a proprietary trade secret or something, please disregard my request. Thanks!
Quote from: beenthere on August 04, 2015, 11:00:39 PM
Kbeitz
That dremel tool is probably good enough for you, but doubt it would be very acceptable for most when it comes to having a consistent sharpening job on a blade.
And glad it works for you.
The omly problem I see is that I need to find a way to also do the set.
I do set my radal arm saw blades by hand but I gave not tried it on band blades.
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 06, 2015, 03:49:11 PM
Quote from: beenthere on August 04, 2015, 11:00:39 PM
Kbeitz
That dremel tool is probably good enough for you, but doubt it would be very acceptable for most when it comes to having a consistent sharpening job on a blade.
And glad it works for you.
The omly problem I see is that I need to find a way to also do the set.
I do set my radal arm saw blades by hand but I gave not tried it on band blades.
Try this
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50749.0.html
This is what I use.Made up for me by a mate with a milling machine.Calibrated in 10th of a millimeter.I run it along the blade prior to setting and sharpening.Also handy to find teeth that are over set from a metal/object strike.
Sorry dont seem to get to my forum gallery. Help!!The computer keeps leading me to my pictures or other files on this computer where I dont have the picture I want to display
john
You must be referring to getting to your pics already in your gallery, not getting to pics on your computer. Last pics you put there were in March 2015, by the looks of your gallery.
That being, if you click on the line under the post window "Click here to add Photos to post" you will see a new window open.
When there, click the menu tab "My gallery" to get to all your gallery pics.
Select and click the one you want... it will enlarge. Scroll below that image and you will see down a ways where it says "Insert image in post". Click that and you should see your pic when you click the "Preview" button.
Give a shout if that does not work for you.
Been there,clicking ---photos to post yes ,select album yes , choose file then it goes to my computer with windows 8 [definitely not a useful os] I am wanting to get to my ff albums. cheers john
So I guessed wrong.. you want to upload new pics off your computer, not get to the old pics already in your gallery.
And Win 8 won't let you browse your computer files for the new pic you want to upload.
Can't help with the Win 8 , sorry