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Which 8-1/4" Circular saw?

Started by Old Greenhorn, June 28, 2022, 10:12:51 AM

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Old Greenhorn

I have let my mind wander too much and am now searching/shopping for an 8-1/4" circular saw to cut the thicker slabs. I have an old 7-1/4 skillsaw (1960's) that is still going strong and I can't begin to count all I have built with it. I got that used in 1977. No plastic on it.

 But it can only cut 2-3/8 or so deep. So I am looking to pry open my purse and allow myself a new tool, but it has to be at least 8-1/4". I would love to get a Makita timber saw (16") but it is out of my range. I've used one and love the finish it leaves. Perfect cuts every time. It's also overkill for slabs and dang heavy. I just need to clear a 3" slab to be happy. I see the makita claims 3" depth of cut and the Milwaukee is only 2-7/8.
 Anybody have these and can confirm? Any options on these or others? I'd like to keep the cost at $250 or less, but it depends on what I might get for my money. Festo is out of the question, just on price.
 Go ahead, help me spend my money. :D
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

scsmith42

Why not get a Makita 10-1/4" instead of the 8-1/4? I have no complaints with mine.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Old Greenhorn

Well, it's 70 bucks more, but I would be able to cut off 4x4's with it (barely). I dunno, that's something to think about.
 Glad you mentioned it.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Don P

That was my first thought, the man needs a bigfoot.

I just discovered we didn't achieve pitch set on this load, I'm chillin and resting my push sticks for a minute  :D

Tom K

My suggestion was going to be to look at a 10" instead of the 8" also. I have ran a 10" Milwaukee, but have not ran the Makita to compare.

Tom King

I bought a used Milwaukee 10-1/4" off CL for your wishing price.  There was nothing at all wrong with it, and it's not hard to handle at all.  I also have a number of 7-1/4's, 8-1/4's, and a 16-5/16's, so know what the comparison is.  I don't think I've picked up an 8-1/4 since I bought that 10-1/4".

The larger they are, the slower the blade turns (with most of them), so other than the size and weight of the saw itself, there is no more strength required just to run any of them.

Don P

My old Makita 16" has the same motor as their 7-1/4" saw, there is just a reduction gear in the big saw. It is a wimp compared to the 10" Milwaukee. I'm pretty much the same, I rarely reach for the 8". I did have one that swung to 60°, I think it was a Skil. It did not like to cut that far over but would do it. I got it for a prow fronted house but that swing did come in handy at times.

Old Greenhorn

Thanks guys, all good stuff.
Perhaps I should have picked out my words a little more carefully with this bunch. Allow me to rephrase: Help me spend my money, WISELY :D ;D.

 Yeah, the bigfoot would be nice, but it's just too pricey for the amount of time I would need it. Still the 10" might be do-able.
 Don, did I read that right? Your 16" has the same motor as your 7-1/4?! The Makita 16 that I ran had a much bigger motor, but it's not that old.

 I did check on CL because that is a good idea. about a year ago I saw some 16's going for about 250, but it wasn't that much of a need then. I only found one Makita 10", like new, but over an hour away. I always found the worm drives awkward and never owned one, but I suppose I could adjust.
 I'll keep looking, but I think you guys steered me up to a 10" for sure. Dang it all. ;D
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

scsmith42

For what it's worth, I sold my Makita 16-5/8 and replaced it with a similarly sized Skillsaw.  I've been happy with the change.

An 8" does not provide much more capacity compared with the standard 7-1/4, whereas the 10" is a nice step up in capacity but w/o the more difficult handling of the 16.




Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

firefighter ontheside

I have to concur with the fellas saying to get the 10" saw.  The extra money spent over the 8" would be well worth the extra cost.  You probably know, we use the 10" saw in trench rescue to cut and rip 4x4s and they are great for it.  Just be sure to get a blade that is meant for ripping.  
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Larry

If you can find a used wormdrive. most can be retrofitted with the Bigfoot conversion.  Might be able to stay within the budget.

The blade is pretty important with the bigger saws.  Thin kerf blades can flex around knots or with a grain change.  Full kerf cuts straighter but may overpower the saw.  I've not seen any that would give me a consistent glue line rip.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

firefighter ontheside

I haven't been a fan of worm drive saws, because I can't run it with one hand very easily.  I have a good Skil one that I bought in an auction, but I have never used it.  It seems like a no brainer that I should buy one of the Bigfoot conversions and make it a useful saw for me.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Old Greenhorn

Yeah, I think I am settled in on the 10" saw now. I am hunting around for a deal and will keep an eye on CL, etc for a couple of weeks, then buy a new one if nothing pops up.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

firefighter ontheside

I think I bought the skil worm drive for about $30 and the bigfoot kit is $209.  That saves about $100 on the cost of the cheapest 10" saw I've seen.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

kantuckid

In a somewhat related way to this thread and cutting bigger wood, I'm considering buying a Prazi Beam cutter for one of my saws.
 After reading lots of reviews I've got mixed thoughts. Many say they are not a such a useful tool while others head to a 5 star glowing review. 
Having built my house with a chain saw its not like a must do thing for me but the notion is attractive. 

What say others on the non-worm drive PR2700 Prazi beam cutter? Be cutting mostly (actual rough sawed) 6" thick EWP logs or a few 4x6 beams. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Don P

I've got one hooked to a Milwaukee worm drive. It sits most of the time. I use it when the 16" won't work, definitely not a go to saw. 

Ljohnsaw

I picked up an older Milwaukee 10" saw cheap at a garage sale.  The depth adjust is a vertical slide that is hard to adjust in a fine manner.  Just coarse adjustments so not great for cutting tenon kerf cuts.  I don't use it anymore.  Let me look around for it.  IIRC, it needs a new blade (dull).  I could let you have it for shipping if it looks like it will be worth it to you.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Bruno of NH

I was one of the first carpenters in my age group (56 now) when I first started carpentry work to own and use a worm drive. At the time in New Hampshire no one used one. The most comfortable saw to use for me.
I still have the original one I purchased back in 1984 a Craftsman ( rebranded skill). 
I'm going to be building a project this summer and I'm going to purchase a cordless worm drive to use.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Bruno of NH

My vote is 10" on your new saw.
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

Old Greenhorn

Thanks again for all the good replies and general good conversation. Yeah, 10" is definitely what I have been searching for. I found one or two used, but 4 hours round trip drive leans me toward spending the money for a new one.
 LJohnsaw, if you can find that saw and it works OK, or seems to we should talk in more detail. I'd be more than happy to pay at least the shipping. Even if it's not the greatest, it will get me going on the next table or two. Wish I had time to hit the garage sales, but it take a lot of sales to hit on something worth buying for whatever use. I am just too busy to take the time out.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Don P

The great debate, drop table vs swing table  :). With a drop shoe the handle orientation and your motion is the same through adjustment. With a swing table it is simpler, arguably faster and easier but the handle changes angle through the depth adjustment range. I've never been that delicate.

Sounds like the resounding answer to the question "Which 8" saw to get?"
The 10" one  ;D

Old Greenhorn

Spot on Don. I am using a 7-1/4 60's skill saw and I have a lot of cutting through it (not as much as you I am sure) and on some jobs ran that things so hard I wanted to dunk it in a bucket of water to cool it off. No plastic on that saw. It has a swing base and I have never tried to be precise on the depth either. It's either 'just enough to go through' on slammed all the way down for the max, which was often not enough. With the swing base I never liked doing shallow cuts because it put the handle point too high and if it bound you either had a really hard time holding the saw back, or it ran out from under your hand, which I did not like at all. ;D
 Same with worm drives I think. I used my buddy's once on a job and found it awkward, but he swung that thing and one handed cuts like it was part of his arm. So I guess with time, I might adjust.
 SO I need a 10", maybe a 16 too, but one step at a time. Those makita 16's come up on CL more often than I would think, but mostly it's the older ones in my price point. The newer ones stil bring around 650 used. Too rich for me at this point.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Don P

I've been through a few saws  :D. The most memorable lasted about 4 hours. I bought a new saw, was doing soffit returns on a step ladder and yup. left the saw perched on top of the ladder "for just a second"  ::). Back to the store that evening. I'da been money ahead to stay in bed some days!

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Old Greenhorn on July 03, 2022, 08:19:19 PMThose makita 16's come up on CL more often than I would think, but mostly it's the older ones in my price point.
I talked about this on some other thread.  Take a HARD look at the Makita and the Skil Sawsquatch.  I had a Makita (blue one) and found it very awkward to use and just a little under powered.  The Skil is still heavy but has a much bigger shoe (cast magnesium vs stamped steel) and a bit more power.  A little quieter, too.  I'll keep an eye out for one on the auction site.  I think when we last talked, the shipping would be about $100 for the size and weight.  Maybe it should go Truck Freight! ;)
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Old Greenhorn

I think a some point Makita changed their 16" saw a bit. I used a newer one for cutting6x8 maple posts and it cut like a dream. I am shying away from the older ones because I think these are the ones that were a bit weak on power. I could be wrong. I have never seen the Milwaukee except in photos.

 Given that I will only need this for squaring off slabs and some kerf cuts I can make do with just about any decent saw provided it is big enough. I am not likely to grab a 10" for trimming 2x4's, but I could be wrong on that too. I have recently caught myself wishing I had a 6-1/4 battery saw for certain things, so maybe a weakness is developing in my head?
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

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