a few questions about cook's mp32 mill

[T.J.]

i've done a search of past posts on this mill but,i still have a couple of questions i hope y'all can help me with.
1.if i order a base model how hard is it to add the log loader,head up/down,forward and reverse later?
2.does this mill have toe boards?the catalog and the video doesn't say.
any other info or advice will be appreciated.
T.J.

[kelLOGg]

T.J.

I ordered the base model before they offered the up/down and forward/reverse and added my own and saved a lot of $ by buying motors at the Surplus Center. See my gallery if you are interested in photos. if you are thinking about adding Cooks accessories call Tim or anyone at Cooks - they are very helpful. Tell them what you want to add later and they will work with you and give advice.  My guess is that it would not be difficult if you are handy working with steel.

There are no toe boards. They have a scissor jack for leveling logs but the log had better be very small, otherwise it is woefully inadequate. I added two 4 ton  bottle jacks which lift anything I've put on it.

It is a fine, sturdy mill but with no hydraulics it wears me out. Power log clamps would be very nice. Trying to pry the flat of a large log against the squaring arms can be tough.

Bob

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

When I spoke to Cooks about the ac36 i also asked them about the Mp3238g Hyd &Mp32  Mills and they said that the entire mill was based on roughly the same frame as the mp32 and that you could upgrade it as you went  ;) Just give them a call to confirm this but my view of Cooks is they build a dang good looking mill and  will help you as much as possible to help you achive what your aim is Mate

If your thinking of going with hyd lateron and if you are borrowing the money Id think about the mp3238g as for $24.5 k for the mill only or $27500 for the pro pack with sharpener and setter an afew other goodys Its a Bloody Bargan and id just go the whole hog for a start   ;)

but if you are doing it out of your own pocket id go the largest base mill then add as you go Mate  ;) ;D

Reguards Chris

[PineNut]

I have a MP-32 that has a 22-foot cut, power up/down and forward/reverse. I have been well pleased with it and would recommend it to any one that needs a mill with similar capabilities.

If you want a greater length, go ahead and get it when you get the mill. I got mine with a 22-foot length. Cooks said you could add it on later but looks to me like it would require some experienced welding to do so. One option, which you can get later, is an extra stop and dog. When cutting an 8-foot log, it has to be located in exactly the correct position to clamp properly. I added an extra stop between the other two and can cut as short as 3 ft and the 8 ft logs clamp very easily. This can be added with minimum welding as the brackets were already on the frame.

I had a problem with one defective part when the mill was new and Cooks shipped the part out the same day I called them with no questions ask. In other words, great service.

I will agree about the scissors jacks, they just don't cut it. They would probably work better if they were not fastened down but where they were located, the log was usually off center of the jacks. Scissors jacks do not work well if not positioned directly under the load. Also the electric winch for the log loader and turner is not all that strong. It will get the job done but you have to help it on the heaver loads. For smaller logs, I turn them by hand. For larger ones, I use the FEL on the tractor.

When you are not pushing to make production, this is a good mill. But if you are trying to make any production, you will need the hydraulics

[TheWoodsman]

The Cooks mills appear to be well built, capable, and a good bang for the buck.  I would consider the MP-32 to be a step up from an LT-15. 

I'd like to get an AC36-51hp down the road.  I saw one run a while back and was impressed.  I really like all the Eaton hydraulic motors and general lack of proprietary parts.

[T.J.]

thanks everyone for the help and advice.i appreciate it.
i would love to have a fully hydraulic mill but aint ready to sink that much money into a mill yet.i'm getting ready to build a small house.that is the main reason i have for getting a mill.i also thought about maybe sawing a few crossties to help pay for it.i could upgrade to a hydraulic mill later if i see that sawing is something i want to continue to do on a regular basis.
also,even though the cook is at the top of my list i haven't ruled out the mobile dimension or the swing blade mills by peterson or lucas.
again thanks for the help.
T.J.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday TJ

What sort of money are you looking at spending mate as i you have acces to an offbearer and space  you might also look into getting an older manual circ mill it would be the best bang for your buck ;) the lucas dose a good job and gives you a good bang for you buck if your in logs over 16"  and the peterson,s Wpf is a good allround mill  with the single point sizeing and The Md's look a dang good mill also but im not sure on the price  ;)

If your keen on the Cooks  id look at getting the raise and lower fitted when you get it as that was the part that tired me out on the manual jonsered band mill that i had  ;) The pushing was the easy part  ;) :D ;)

Chris

[Banjo picker]

I don't know what comes standard on the mill in question, but when I was having them set up my AC36, I was considering holding off on the debarker and adding it later untill I found out that without the debarker it came with a diffrent hydralic moter.  So to add it later I would have had to not only buy the debarker and put it on myself, but would have to buy another moter, change it out as well.  Talk to Tim Cook or Billy Gautney about your future plans.  Tim

[T.J.]

Tim,good point i guess i really need to talk with them and see if i would be dealing with any issues like you describe.
Chris,i was looking to keep it in the $10,000 range.i also wanted to keep it mobile-just in case.i think your probably right on the up/down it looks to be the most labor intensive part.i dont think the pushing would be as bad as the up/down cranking.
thanks again for the help.
T.J.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

T.J Well the way i see it is if you have to walk along with the head why bother having elec feed  : just put the money into More Power mate   ;) :D :D ;D ;) There is nothing worse than when your using a mill alot and walking along with the sawhead on wide cuts Just Thinking Dang It I wish id got'n a more powerfull motor   :( :( >:( My little mill did a realy good job for me on average pine logs 12" to 26" dia  but lacked alittle power on the same size Hardwoods  :( :'( with just 9.5hp But remember with manual mills 99% of your power is going  into the cut  ;) ;D ;D ;D 8)

I just looked at the price list then  ;)
For a Mp32 25Hp  portable 21' cut mill with the following

Base Mill                        $6825
Extension 5'                  $725
Extra squaring arm        $295
12V load/turning winch  $695
Log Ramps                    $395
Traler Package               $975
20 S/sharp bands          $406
Canthook                      $62
Band Alignment tool       $20

the total is                    $10398

That will give you a nice Productive Mill from the Get Go and just a touch over budget  ;) ;D and you can Add the Elec raise and lower later on as you dont want to Cut down on the basics that you will be needing everyday to gain something you can just bolt on at a later date when you have the cash Mate  ;) ;D ;D

Reguards Chris

[campy]

T.J.
I have the MP32 with all the options.
If I had to do it again I would have skipped the log leveler and log turner/winch.
I also would have put it on the ground and used an electric motor, no towing package.
Never have I wanted to take it to a job site. 
The logs always come to me.
I dont like exaust and dust.
For that reason I wired in a $10 remote control for the forward cutting stroke.

A tractor with a front end loader is a must without hydrolics.

The power feed is really very important.
It takes a lot of push to get through a wide cut.

I am looking to trade in mine or sell for an electric one on the ground.

[TheWoodsman]

Good advice above.  I think that's alotta mill for the money.

If you haven't done so already, call Tim Cook and ask if he'll send you the MP-32 DVD.

8)

[kelLOGg]

The only power feature I wish I had on my modified MP32 is the ability to push a BIG cant or half log against the squaring arms. Pushing/pulling/sliding/prying gets pretty tiresome. Anybody got any solutions short of a tractor (which sometimes I have had to use)?
Bob

[pineywoods]

The only power feature I wish I had on my modified MP32 is the ability to push a BIG cant or half log against the squaring arms. Pushing/pulling/sliding/prying gets pretty tiresome. Anybody got any solutions short of a tractor (which sometimes I have had to use)?
Bob

Just add a hydraulic clamp, it really ain't that big a deal. With a little planning, a clamp can also used as a pretty decent claw type log turner.

[campy]

kelLOGg
I use my tractor exclusively to load the logs.
I scoot it into position and then up the ramps.

Also to turn the bigger logs I prop a metal cant hook onto the log and lift it with the tractors front end loader.

If you slant the mill back torwards the log stops it is easier to load the logs and keep them up against the log arms. 

A 2 inch board under half the legs will do the trick.
I use a spirit level to get everything the way I like it.

[kelLOGg]

The responses to my question about pushing large cants against the squaring arms made me think of a hand operated hydraulic ram for auto body repair. Place one end against the frame, the other on the log and operate with hand or foot to press the log where you want it. Anybody done this? What do you think?
Bob

[T.J.]

wow,this is a great site.all the advice is appreciated.
now for the dumb question-why and for what length mill is the third squaring arm needed?
T.J.

[PineNut]

I would use the third squaring arm on any length of mill. On mine, it is between the other two. It is primarily for sawing 8 foot and shorter logs. The 8-foot logs have to be in a precise location for the arms and dogs to hold the log. The mill came with the mounting brackets welded on the frame and all I had to do was bolt it on. Well I did have to weld one piece to the arm to raise it up but no welding to the frame.

[Banjo picker]

If the extra arm on the 32 is like the one on my ac36 you should be able to cut a piece down to 3 or 4 ft range.  Tim

[fat olde elf]

My manual mp 32 has been helping keep me in shape for the past 6 years.  I did buy the third squaring arm three years ago.   Everything that Cooks manufactures is heavy duty...
Just compare their materials and specs to others.....They also have great customer support and lots of info........Listen to Pinenut and KelLOG.......Keep your money in the south !!!!!

[kelLOGg]

I'm planning on adding a 4th squaring arm. occasionally someone (woodworker)wants a very short burl or crotch sawn. Nice to have the ability to clamp a variety of lengths.